Help preparing wood for oil painting

[missionsart]

I had always thought that just coating wood panels with several coats of gesso was a good preparation but I see others are priming/sealing before the gesso layers. Can anyone help me to understand if this is necessary and if so what I should use for this priming/sealing layer?

[Cgy]

I’m in the middle of preparing a few panels right now. I use a couple of coats of Golden’s GAC100 as a sealant and then apply acrylic Gesso on top of that. The GAC100 also acts as a barrier against oils seeping out of the wood and into the paint, causing discoloration of lightly coloured paints.

I suggest checking out Golden’s website for technical advice on sizing.

Reality is the fog that obscures the vision.

[LifePart2]

So along those lines–

if I want to retain the grain on the wood, is there a way to seal it without having to gesso it? and retain some of the “tooth” of the wood? (I’d prefer a not totally smooth surface)

Can I seal it with PVA?

I understand the GAC-100–but I’ve never used it

what about doing the same thing with masonite?

thanks!

[Cgy]

The gesso isn’t to seal the wood; that is what the GAC-100 is for. I believe PVA also seals the wood surface, and might be a better choice than GAC-100. The Gesso is a slightly rough surface that oils can sink into and cling to, so the oil layer doesn’t peel away from the support.

Reality is the fog that obscures the vision.

[Ellis Ammons]

I think you should completely seal the wood in. Back, front, sides, support, what have you. That will help keep moisture out and help prevent warping and swelling. You are sealing moisture out not only from the gesso but from the environment as well. Humidity and spills.

Remember acrylic gesso is water based. So putting that directly on the wood is going to be soaking the wood in water. Encouraging warping to begin with.

Check out my work in the acrylics Hall of Fame Camellia WIP
oil and acrylic paintings..

[Dcam]

Bin sealcoat waxless shellac.
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/823195/(H)-SANDING-SEALER-2-QUART.aspx?gclid=COz34qq3180CFQZkhgod_E0L8w

two coats both sides. nothing better.

Website: www.artderek.com
DEMONSTRATIONS:https://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1363787
https://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1343600
https://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1431363

[Delofasht]

Depends on the kind of gesso you are using, if it is acrylic based, then. You should probably use a sealant on the wood first, to keep the white pigment in the gesso (acrylic emulsion) protected. If the gesso is a hide glue variant then you are fine just sealing the surface with your gesso, but you will probably want to gesso all sides then. The moisture resistance is the real aim here, not to protect your colors from support induced discoloration (which only affects acrylics to my knowledge).

You can also just use a sealant to seal the surface, and paint directly on top of that if you want to retain the wood color and grain. The purpose of gesso is to provide tooth for mechanical grip, and for creating a flat white for wipe out and glazing techniques. If you are planning on painting over it it opaquely and do not intend to use those techniques with an expectation of mixed with white results, then you would be fine just working over the sealant. Hope that helps, happy painting.

- Delo Delofasht

[Delofasht]

Hah hah. I knew Derek would be here soon with the shellac! It is probably the most direct and economical sealant you can buy, sand if you want to but it is not necessary.

- Delo Delofasht

[missionsart]

Thanks so much everyone! I guess I’ve been skipping a step here. The hide glue variant gesso sounds like it might work for me. I’m going to look for that.

I’m also thinking for my paintings on wood objects, rather than wood panels, just sealing and painting on the wood might be the best look. I wasn’t sure I could do that.

[Delofasht]

Just keep in mind that hide glue based gesso is meant for rigid supports only. Do not use it on stretched canvas, highly likely to crack there.

- Delo Delofasht

[missionsart]

Looks like Gamblin traditional gesso is a gesso with the hide glue. They are recommending four coats.

I keep going back and looking at that shellac sealcoat product which seems like a really economical and easy solution. Just shellac and oil paint right over it.

I might try both of these choices and see how it works for me.

[Delofasht]

Hide gesso is generally considered a ‘traditional’ gesso by many stores. Shellac with would be what I would use as a sealant personally.

- Delo Delofasht

[missionsart]

Thanks I just found that traditional gesso you mentioned. I also like the simplicity of the shellac idea.

[Dcam]

Ok Delo: Your hat is way better than mine.:thumbsup:
but….I am the shellac man.:lol:

Website: www.artderek.com
DEMONSTRATIONS:https://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1363787
https://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1343600
https://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1431363

[HalVik]

So along those lines–if I want to retain the grain on the wood, is there a way to seal it without having to gesso it? and retain some of the “tooth” of the wood? (I’d prefer a not totally smooth surface) Can I seal it with PVA? I understand the GAC-100–but I’ve never used it
what about doing the same thing with masonite?
thanks!

If you use PVA for sizing/sealing masonite you should do it on both sides otherwise it will bend. (I would then ground it on the painting side.)

[Author]

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