Home › Forums › Explore Media › Oil Painting › WN suggested basic palette
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September 20, 2003 at 1:17 am #983593
Hello all. At Pilan’s urging (thank you Pilan!) I’m submitting this, my first post. But you don’t have to be kind if you don’t want to
I am trying to setup a beginning but not completely inexperienced oil painter. Paintings will likely be “realistic” landscapes, animals, and maybe some portraits. I’ve researched WC quite a bit so I know I’m likely to get many differing opinions but that’s okay. I’ve decided on WN artists’ oils due to price, local availability, and generally good reviews. WN lists a basic palette on their website in their Hints, Tips, and Techniques document. My question is: Do you feel strongly that any of these colors should be omitted or replaced with another? Are there any additions you would recommend? One thing I wonder about is the lack of opaque colors other than cad red. The palette is listed below and I’ve added Ivory Black. Thank you so much for any comments may have.
WN basic palette: Yellow Ochre, Winsor Yellow, Winsor Lemon, Winsor Green, Winsor Blue(GS), Titanium White, Raw Umber, Permanent Rose, Permanent Alizarin Crimson, Ivory Black, French Ultramarine, Cadmium Red, Burnt Sienna.
Jim
September 20, 2003 at 3:30 am #1016295I would be inclined to swap one of the Winsor Yellows for a Cadmium Yellow pale and add Cadmium Red to the red range. Terra Vert is a useful shade if you want to add that.The black I could live without because I prefer to mix a dark myself.
It’s a good palette that you are working with though!Gina
Web Site :-http://perso.wanadoo.es/ginatec/
September 20, 2003 at 3:46 am #1016297do not use a safflopwer based oil paint for your under paintings. Im warning you some WN tubes are safflower based.
theres a WN *foundation white* meant specifically for underpaintings/under coatings.
September 20, 2003 at 6:54 am #1016300Hi Jim,
I use a basic palette of Titanium White, Naples Yellow, Cad Yellow Light, Yellow Ochre, Cad Red Light, Alizarin Crimson, Cerulean Blue, Fr Ultramarine, Paynes gray, Burnt & raw Umber, Burnt Sienna, Viridian Green, Permanent Green Light… On and off I’ve used Flake White & Cobalt Blue.
I also keep Ivory Black (used on occasion)I had one tube for about 20 yrs I think!…I have always mixed my darks from the colors used in the rest of the work.
I know you don’t “need” the greens I listed…but they are old favorites to me.Lately, from all the reading I’ve done here…I am liking the “limited palette” idea a lot.
But I also like having my favorite stand-bys available.
I have other colors in the draw too but the list above is what I usually reach for.You can experiment with the trial-sized tubes for your own pleasure. You’ll accumulate by trial and error over time.:)
one more thought…:o …I have looked at some of my paintings from… Heaven Help Me (LOL)…the 60’s, my teen years! … and they have held up well. (!)
I use Grumbacher because that was what I got started with and have also used WN since the 70’s.
Still use both.[FONT=Georgia]Carol
www.carolchretien.com
Founding Artist Member,
www.arthelpinganimals.comSeptember 20, 2003 at 8:02 pm #1016301Gina: I’ll add cad yellow pale to the list. I do have cad red there. Terre Verte sounds interesting, I’ll consider that as well.
Tech: I learned that! But promptly forgot it I guess. Thanks for the reminder. I’ll add Underpainting White or Foundation White.
Carol: I’ll have a look at the colors you’ve mentioned. I’ll need to see what the total damage comes to before adding many more
Thank you all for taking the time to comment. Now on to brushes!
Jim
September 20, 2003 at 9:12 pm #1016293seems like you have been given some good advice here & remember your palette can change as you grow and it’s really a personal thing….if you read a thread..”Show us your palette’ you’d be amazed at the different ones people have & hold to…:)
Good you’re using permanent alizarin!we welcome viewing your work once you paint something!
Cathleen~
[FONT=Times New Roman]~Be COURAGEOUS, It's one of the few places left still uncrowded~
[FONT=Times New Roman]~Life is not measured by it's length BUT by it's depth~
September 21, 2003 at 2:57 pm #1016299I would reccomend that you avoid yellow Ochre and naples yellow as they contain a lot of white which will tend to turn your colours pastel shades:eek: I would use permanent green dark and perm. green instead of chrome and viridian. you dont need browns they all can be made easily. Swap the rose for magenta, it makes you great violets and you need the COOL blues, Cobalt definitely and either cerulean or manganese also.
P.S. get rid of the black goes without saying I have a 15 year old 37 mil tube 3/4 full:D
September 21, 2003 at 4:05 pm #1016296Welcome to WetCanvas!
I know I know… artbabe already said welcome, but I felt like it TOO!
I think your palette looks quite good. I would never delete my yellow ochre, as it’s the second most used tube of mine (yellow or golden ochre).
You really don’t need two yellows I think. Go with Cadmium Yellow light. Also, as for reds, Crimson plus Cadmium Red light will get you anywhere you wish.Good luck, and as Artbabe said, – show us your paintings!!
//matt
Skill of hand can never make up for emptiness of heart
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http://www.sammekull.seSeptember 21, 2003 at 4:32 pm #1016294[i]Originally posted by IamNotAnArtist [/i]
[B]WN basic palette: Yellow Ochre, Winsor Yellow, Winsor Lemon, Winsor Green, Winsor Blue(GS), Titanium White, Raw Umber, Permanent Rose, Permanent Alizarin Crimson, Ivory Black, French Ultramarine, Cadmium Red, Burnt Sienna. [/B]
Well now you’ve seen how much opinions can vary on this! Here’s my recommendation.
Switch the Winsor Yellow for the Cadmium Yellow Pale. They’re nearly identical in hue but the cadmium will give you an opague yellow. Keep the Winsor Lemon too, or get the cad yellow lemon in its place. You will sometimes need a very cool yellow, and adding white to the mid-yellow doesn’t do it—it cuts the saturation too much.
Choose between the permanent rose and the permanent alizarin. Personally, I’d take the rose, and get the Gamblin alizarin permanent instead if you really want an alizarin. It’s a better match for the real alizarin, which is a fugitive color. (Stay away.) The permanent rose will mix the most gorgeous violets you’ll ever need….but still I keep Winsor Violet (dioxazine violet) in my palette because it’s just wonderful, and serves well as a neutralizer too.
I wouldn’t get the raw umber nor the black. I like to mix my own darks with complements. For my money, I’d rather have that Winsor Violet. The WN burnt sienna is like no other brand. If you need to have a burnt sienna, that’s the one to have.
All my own opinion, of course.
Jamie
Hudson Valley Painter[/url]
Hudson Valley Sketches -- Reviews/Lightfastness Tests/Art Materials [/url]
One year from now, you'll wish you had started today.September 21, 2003 at 4:43 pm #1016298[i]Originally posted by Greg Long [/i]
[B]I would reccomend that you avoid yellow Ochre and naples yellow as they contain a lot of white which will tend to turn your colours pastel shades:eek: [/B]I know most of the Naples yellow hues contain white, but I’ve never seen a yellow Ochre that did.
September 24, 2003 at 12:28 am #1016302Wow, thanks everyone! I’ve decided on the following based on what WN recommends and modified by what real artists recommend I will urge the artist that will be using this palette to join WC and post some WIP and then you can all feel proud (I hope!) when you see them that you helped. Thanks again.
Modified WN basic palette: Winsor Lemon, Cadmium Yellow Pale, Cadmium Red, Permanent Rose, Winsor Blue(GS), French Ultramarine, Winsor Green, Yellow Ochre, Burnt Sienna, Titanium White, Underpainting White.
Jim
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