mailbox annealer

[3SistersBeads]

Hi Mark,

I’m glad I snuck over to this section. I don’t check the tech section enough but, whenever I see one of your tutorials, I make sure to check it out.

This kiln looks so neat. I’m gonna bookmark this and show it to my hubby, who is always looking for ways to make me happy!

Your tutorials are always very visual and easily explained. I thank you doubly for THAT!

Blessings,
Leslie

"Cymbalism! Make Some Noise!" at 3Sisters Beads
Visit My Etsy Shop
Happy moments, praise God. Difficult moments, seek God. Quiet moments,worship God. Painful moments, trust God. Every moment, thank God.

[Paula D]

This is great!!! Bump! Paula

www.flamedame.com

[Moth]

I PM’ed Cheryl to see if she can add this thread to the Glass Class 101 Sticky thread.

Thanks Mark!!

~~Mary

My Website- Last Update 5/14/06
My Etsy Shop
"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm."
--Winston Churchill

[rebeccacharles]

I am curious about the black paint (or any other paint) on that mail box. Since it is not intended to be a high temperature device (esp. high temp for many hours) do you think that there might be a problem in that area…fumes, burning off or something like that. I know this is probably where good ventillation palys a key…I am just curious to hear some opinions on this.
Rebecca

Rebecca Charles
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www.rebeccacharles.com

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[Mark Wilson]

I am curious about the black paint (or any other paint) on that mail box. Since it is not intended to be a high temperature device (esp. high temp for many hours) do you think that there might be a problem in that area…fumes, burning off or something like that. I know this is probably where good ventillation palys a key…I am just curious to hear some opinions on this.
Rebecca

i would plan to burn off any vapors outside before using the kiln inside. it is not just the paint, but also the fiberboard. it stinks to high heaven when you first fire it up. but after an hour or 2 the vapors will stop and then you should be able to use it inside without any problems. when the kiln is at full temperature for an hour, i can put my hand on the outside of the kiln and hold it in place for several seconds. yes it is hot but not so hot as to blister the paint. i made a glory hole fired by a propane venturi burner. it gets to 2200F inside. but the temperature on the outside surface did not get above 400F. in the annealer, its only 950F inside, with about the same amount of frax, so i bet it isn’t over 120F.

i have not used the mailbox annealer much yet as i have lots of kilns. i built it for my outdoor glassblowing system as an annealer to use outside in the summer. here is a link to the application.

https://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125011&highlight=outdoor+glassblowing

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Laserglass-Studio/168011296984?ref=nf

[paintfool]

I PM’ed Cheryl to see if she can add this thread to the Glass Class 101 Sticky thread.

Thanks Mark!!

~~Mary

Done. Thanks Mary for the heads up and thank you Mark for yet another great tutorial!

[BabsW]

Thanks for the “sticky” status Mary.

Mark,

If we want to cut the door crosswise for a smaller bead door, what tool should we use? Likewise for the holes for the electrical connections and thermocouple.

Barbara

Welcome to my website.
Yountsville Mill, Inn, and B & B.

[Mark Wilson]

Thanks for the “sticky” status Mary.

Mark,

If we want to cut the door crosswise for a smaller bead door, what tool should we use? Likewise for the holes for the electrical connections and thermocouple.

Barbara

i would put the bricks on the floor of the mailbox and then mark the level of the top of the bricks on the side of the mailbox on the inside. then i would use a spring loaded punch to dent the mailbox where the corners of the bead door should be. i imagine that the bead door should be about 1 to 2 inches tall and about 10 inches wide. then i would remove the bricks and use masking tape to transfer the pattern to the outside of the mailbox. then i would use a drill to drill holes in the 4 corners of the bead door rectangle using the tape as a guide. the hole should be about 3/8 inch, large enough to get the blade of a hand held saber saw into. i would then slowely, carefully saw between holes using a fine tooth metal saber saw blade. you should end up with a 2×10 inch rectangular hole in the side of the mailbox. you should keep this hole at least 2 inches back from the front edge of the mailbox door. if you look at my design, my internal insulation stops about 1 inch from the door, and a little gap would be useful so about 2 inches is right. the back edge of the bead door should still be on the kiln floor and not into the heater/brick area. the bottom edge of the bead door should be slightly below the brick floor surface so that it does not come in contact with your beads/mandrels. i would use tin snips to cut the rectangular opening in the inner metal skin. just 2 little 2 inch cuts. i would then fold the wide middle part of the metal skin outward so that it covers the exposed frax at the top of the bead door.

i guess is still don’t know why you would not just use the main door to put you beads into. don’t worry about heat loss, you don’t have the door open that long and it is on the side not the top. and if you are timid, just use a pair of plyers to put the mandrels inside.

i have not ever made a bead door as i have described above. so you are kind of on your own if you do it.

by the way, i shouldn’t have to say this, but i have had some PM’s that have left some doubt in my mind. you need to use a metal mailbox, not a plastic one. and it should be the biggest mailbox you can find. mine was about 11x14x22 inches approximately.

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Laserglass-Studio/168011296984?ref=nf

[Moth]

OK, sorry…but I have to ask.

Which one of you guys asked about the PLASTIC mailbox???

~~Mary

My Website- Last Update 5/14/06
My Etsy Shop
"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm."
--Winston Churchill

[Mark Wilson]

ok here is the mailbox annealer all set up in place, next to my portable glory hole. i melt about 10 to 15 pounds of glass inside the glory hole in a crucible. i made a temperature controller for the annealer for about $20.

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Laserglass-Studio/168011296984?ref=nf

[Mark Wilson]

the entire glass studio is on top of a standard 6 foot long table covered with cement wall board. the stand up bench is to the left, and the annealer and glory hole are on the right hand side.

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Laserglass-Studio/168011296984?ref=nf

[sadiesjewels]

Thanks Mark,

I just saw this thread and think the project might make a good summer vacation project for my 15 year old son! I hope I can encourage him to do something useful with his spare time. He’s very technically minded so with your wonderful information it might be just the thing to keep off summer boredom.

I love these technical information tutorials … so useful to all of us with limited funds …

sadie

[FONT=Georgia]sadiesjewels.com
my bead auctions on ebay

[Judy in MN]

I like your setup, Mark. It’s nice of you to put together these tutorials and add pictures of the finished product in action.

Were you able to work outside on Saturday or Sunday? It was plenty warm out when we came through The Cities on our way home from “up north,” but ohhhh, so windy!

Judy

Age does not diminish the extreme disappointment of having a scoop of ice cream fall from the cone.

[Mark Wilson]

I like your setup, Mark. It’s nice of you to put together these tutorials and add pictures of the finished product in action.

Were you able to work outside on Saturday or Sunday? It was plenty warm out when we came through The Cities on our way home from “up north,” but ohhhh, so windy!

Judy

hi judy,
i got it set up on saturday with plans to use it on sunday, but i got side tracked and didn’t get to fire it up yet. i plan to use it this week. i can be blowing glass within 1 hour of lighting the burner. however that glass is full of bubbles, if you want some decent glass, you need 2 to 3 hours to let it cook. i am going to start with clear glass, but if the glass does not fine out quick enough, i plan to melt either cobalt blue or ruby red in it. the dense color helps hide the bubbles. i plan to mainly make star fish, fish, conch shells, floats, and gazing balls with it.

next time you are passing through, let me know. i’ll let you see my studio.

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Laserglass-Studio/168011296984?ref=nf

[Judy in MN]

next time you are passing through, let me know. i’ll let you see my studio.

Cool…I’ll have to do that. After fighting the winds as we headed home from Park Rapids, we decided to get off the interstate at Monticello and skirted the metro area by heading down 25 to 7, then hit 41 and dropped down to 169. After a brief stop at a friend’s house in Jordan to pick up some plants she had for me, we took the back routes through Lonsdale, Northfield and finally picked up 52 at Cannon falls. The wind gusts were over 60mph…we just wanted to get home and collapse.

Judy

Age does not diminish the extreme disappointment of having a scoop of ice cream fall from the cone.

[Author]

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