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July 4, 2004 at 3:08 pm #984323
I’ve recently bought some Bullseye frit to use with my Bullseye glass.I make fused glass pendants and donuts. I’m having trouble getting it to stay on the glass when I put them in the kiln. Should I use fusing glue for this? Also, the one pendant/bead that came out ok looks burned. How should I adjust the top firing temperature to adjust for this? I usually full fuse at 1350 in a fire brick kiln with a controller. I do not crash cool.
Thanks for your help.
Patti
http://www.pattiwhiteley.comJuly 4, 2004 at 6:53 pm #1033703I like to use Elmers type glue. I haven’t found any clouding on the glass, as long as it is sufficiently watery. Good luck!
Jo
Jo,
Dogmaw Glass: Dogmaw Glass
The Dogmaw Blog: Blog!July 4, 2004 at 7:09 pm #1033700They make a product called “KlyrFyre” specifically for frit application. My spelling may be off but most fusing suppliers have this….
Kay
FacebookJuly 4, 2004 at 7:52 pm #1033698I’ve recently bought some Bullseye frit to use with my Bullseye glass.I make fused glass pendants and donuts. I’m having trouble getting it to stay on the glass when I put them in the kiln. Should I use fusing glue for this? Also, the one pendant/bead that came out ok looks burned. How should I adjust the top firing temperature to adjust for this? I usually full fuse at 1350 in a fire brick kiln with a controller. I do not crash cool.
Thanks for your help.
Patti
[url]www.pattiwhiteley.com[/url]My wife and I use frit all the time in fusing. We use the Bullseye connection fluid/glue to help get things to stay in place. You also have to equal out the layer you are creating. It helps if the frits are similar in size on the same layer. If you are using both solid and frit in the same layer, create little pathways for the frit with the solid glass. Try to keep the frit from being the only thing supporting the edges. Some of ours falls out as well, but that is just the joy of fusing. As for the burned piece: How was it burned? Did it fuse too flat for your intentions? The top and side heats are normally kept full up for fusing. The top is actually doing a lot of the work. Give some more information and perhaps we can help. Also what is your soak time at 1350?
Good luck,
KurtJuly 5, 2004 at 1:53 pm #1033702I use a fine paintbrush and tweezers with very fine point to reposition frit as needed (probably not cost effective if you’re trying to make money).
Also, I use a second paintbrush to gently sweep away excess frit from the edge of the piece. It has to be a different brush or you will get kilnwash onto your glass.
I agree with Kurt–need more info about the burned glass. I’ve had no problems firing to a full fuse.
Roberta My sources are unreliable, but their information is fascinating. -- Ashleigh Brilliant.July 5, 2004 at 6:36 pm #1033696I took a class at BE on frit forming and tho I was really not prepared to absorb what I learned…or ready to use that when I came home…you can tack fuse your frit first then use those wafers to use when you want to fuse the whole piece. Tack fusing frit disc etc….gives a lovely effect…some people in my class were so creative and made things like sconces? for lights…once tack fused it is easier to use them for your other fusing projects…I have a really dorky piece I made from a friend and bridge player in my car…hidden…maybe I might find it and take a picture…it had to be tack fused and then slumped…it was extremely unimaginative…and so I have been ignoring it…
so only laugh looking at your screen …no need to tell me how dorky it is….sign your name in blood send it to me and I will post pictures
Regime change begins at home. (bumper sticker I saw today.)
CATS! can't live with them, Can't live without them!
Why do they lay in your path and refuse to move out of your way and then complain bitterly when you trip over them?July 6, 2004 at 8:33 pm #1033701I talked to our fusing Guru today an she said. Try ramping up slower. Now I know it would be better if I had gotten a fusing schedule for you but.. Long day. I bet you’ve got the idea the frit is heat shocking off in the Full ramp. All the other ideas are great too. Hope this helps .Sam
[FONT="Comic Sans MS"]Nina "Sam" Hibler
In the Torch's Flame I was Reborn. My Passion Ignited
www.dreamfireglass.com BLOGJuly 6, 2004 at 9:29 pm #1033697My wife and I use frit all the time in fusing. We use the Bullseye connection fluid/glue to help get things to stay in place. You also have to equal out the layer you are creating. It helps if the frits are similar in size on the same layer. If you are using both solid and frit in the same layer, create little pathways for the frit with the solid glass. Try to keep the frit from being the only thing supporting the edges. Some of ours falls out as well, but that is just the joy of fusing. As for the burned piece: How was it burned? Did it fuse too flat for your intentions? The top and side heats are normally kept full up for fusing. The top is actually doing a lot of the work. Give some more information and perhaps we can help. Also what is your soak time at 1350?
Good luck,
KurtI used a 10 minute soak at 1350. I was ramping up at 1000 per hour. My controller has limited options, it’s either 500, 1000 or full, I think.
I appreciate your comments. I see what I was doing wrong, I was definitely using the frit to support the edges. As far as the burning goes, I was using silver and teal frit together (on top) and although I used equal amounts, you can hardly see the teal. I’ve since been told that teal is one of the colors which burns off easily. Next time I try to use frit, I will use it under the cap.
PattiJuly 6, 2004 at 10:01 pm #1033699Patti,
A cap will help a lot. I don’t know much about the teal, but it sounds like you had a reaction (perhaps reduction) with the silver. Greens like to reduce even in a neutral atmosphere. If you are looking for a full fuse in Bullseye go to 1435 and hold for 20 min. We normally just do a relief fuse and that is more in the 1350 to 1370 range. This gives a nice pendent with round edges, but everything is not totally flat. Try reducing or increasing the soak before you change the temp. Every kiln is different and each project is different. Keep notes and you will find out what works and what does not. If you ever have problems with bubbles try slowing down to 40 degrees an hour between 1025 and 1350. This gives the air a chance to get out before the edges seal. Works great with frit under a cap because there is a lot of air spaces within the frit.
Good luck,
Kurt -
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