How to secure painting to frame: Glazier points? L-brackets?

[Grotius]

I’m facing the prospect of framing several dozen oil paintings for an upcoming show. Most of the paintings are on Masonite/hardboard, but some are on stretched canvas. A couple are on unstretched canvas. I have a whole bunch of wood frames and hanging hardware ready to go. (I don’t plan to use backing boards. Not sure about paper backing yet.) But I’m not sure how to secure all the paintings to the frames. Some questions:

1. Are glazier points the best thing for securing hardboard to wood frames?

2. Should I instead consider a point driver, like this? https://www.amazon.com/Logan-F500-2-Point-Driver-Elite/dp/B003BMFOJQ

3. How does one secure stretched canvas to a wood frame? In many cases, the stretched canvas is deeper than the rabbet depth of my frame. The frames didn’t come with any tools to secure canvas to frame.

4. I’m not sure what to do about my one or two paintings on unstretched canvas. I don’t think I have enough spare canvas for stretcher bars. A fellow artist suggested simply gluing them to a piece of hardboard and then mounting that in a frame. What sort of glue would I use?

Many thanks in advance!

- Geoff.
My website and blog: https://www.geoffwatsonart.com/

[Dcam]

Hi Geoff: I used to use push points, but now love my Logan point driver (hobby lobby with coupon).
For S.Canvas sticking out of frame, I’ve carefully used nails at an angle with my nail gun. I suppose you could use finish brads or nails and a hammer.
One way I got around this for a show was to use wide gorilla tape placed neatly on the back to secure. That stuff is like iron.
This is a good video on mounting your canvas paintings:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U3jb3xUvrQs
I use the same method and if you like the process you could carefully remove your canvases from stretcher bars and mount those as well.
Good luck, Derek

Website: www.artderek.com
DEMONSTRATIONS:https://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1363787
https://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1343600
https://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1431363

[Grotius]

Thanks, Derek! That’s all very helpful. Yeah, I like the look of that Logan point driver.

Edit: I also found the video helpful. He mentioned using PVA glue to mount canvas. I’m not quite sure what type to get. A google search took me to this stuff: https://www.jerrysartarama.com/framing/adhesives/glues/lineco-neutral-ph-adhesive/lineco-neutral-ph-adhesive . Or this: https://www.amazon.com/Books-Hand-Neutral-Adhesive-BBHM217/dp/B0025TZ26Q/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_201_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZWMPJ9E6PYHWZPDMHSX5 . Is that the right idea? It all sounds vaguely like my Elmer’s glue.

- Geoff.
My website and blog: https://www.geoffwatsonart.com/

[Dcam]

Geoff……yes, I’ve used Elmer’s which is the same I believe.
I forgot to mention, I use a Printmaking brayer to roll on the canvas.
I have a large sheet of coffee table glass that I put on top and then barbell plates.
Leave over night.
You can use this method to make a nice watercolor board as well.
I’ve also mounted Arches oil paper this way and paint in oils, what a treat.

Website: www.artderek.com
DEMONSTRATIONS:https://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1363787
https://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1343600
https://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1431363

[ArtMarkie]

Flexible points drivers are good for thin artworks, canvasboard, watercolors under glass. For regular stretched canvas I use the grommets and screws in various sizes (1/4″, 1/8″, etc.)

[Grotius]

Derek: Thanks for the further reply. I’ll pick up a printmaker’s brayer. I had planned to use a credit card to spread the glue, but a brayer is cheap and a better solution. I’ve already ordered your Logan driver from Amazon. Can’t wait to try it.

ArtMarkie: Thanks for your comments. I like the idea of grommets etc. But I do have some stretched 3/4-inch canvas that is wider than the 1/2-inch rabbet I have in most of my frames. I’m still not sure how I’ll secure those. Jerry’s Artarama suggest using 1/4-inch offset clips, so I’ll try that. But it may just make more sense to buy some frames with deeper rabbets, especially as I don’t have all that many 3/4-inch canvases to worry about.

- Geoff.
My website and blog: https://www.geoffwatsonart.com/

[Grotius]

Also, a somewhat off-topic question: do people ever use paper mattes with oil paintings? My sense is generally no. Why is that? Is there concern that paper overlapping the canvas might not let the oil breathe, or some such?

- Geoff.
My website and blog: https://www.geoffwatsonart.com/

[contumacious]

Also, a somewhat off-topic question: do people ever use paper mattes with oil paintings? My sense is generally no. Why is that? Is there concern that paper overlapping the canvas might not let the oil breathe, or some such?

The reason I don’t use cardboard mats with framed oils is because there is no protection for the cardboard since I don’t use glass when framing oils. The mat will remain exposed to dust, moisture, finger prints and airborne pollutants. It will eventually become pretty ugly with no way to clean it. The oil painting itself, particularly when it has a removable conservation varnish is well protected from such things and can be easily cleaned as needed.

One of my best paintings that started out as a quick study, was done on some Canson canvas textured paper. I left a plain white border around it from the tape holding it to my easel panel, with no intention of leaving that showing later. It looked really nice with this particular painting, so I ended up painting some white oil paint over the white border, mounting it to some ACM panel when dry, then sealing it with a permanent layer of Galkyd Lite so I would have a durable surface over the entire piece including the plain border. I then finished it off with some Gamvar. I felt it was at least as durable as a stretched canvas so I ended up framing it like I would a piece that was done on canvas or prepped panel.

Fabric liners are generally what are used in place of mat board liners / mats with oils since they are more durable. They do tend to collect contamination, just not as readily as paper products. If the fabric used has been sealed / painted like an oil painting, they can be cleaned later as needed without damage. I have seen mats and liners made from wood, hardboard and even metal that were painted or sealed somehow so as to make them more durable. Some have been very attractive, adding to the overall presentation, some have been pretty nasty looking.

[Mach5]

Not having glass is the reason for not using paper mats for canvas. A fabric liner can usually be cleaned with a white eraser. Here is a decent framing video using off-sets to mount the canvas. https://youtu.be/yUYMjsv7GYs if you choose to add the hole in the dustcover I recommend covering the hole with a piece of cotton fabric. Also use an ATG (double stick) tape with the liner NOT removed on the lip and edge as an acid barrier also use acid free matboard as shims if needed.

[FONT="Arial Black"]Mark.
A candle looses nothing by lighting another candle – Anon.

[steveo2015]

Hi Geoff: I used to use push points, but now love my Logan point driver (hobby lobby with coupon).

Derek, I just picked up a Logan point driver but I am having trouble getting my paintings tight in the frames. I paint on masonite panels. With the Logan point driver I end up with a small gap between the pints and the back of my paintings. What type of points are you using and are there any secrets to getting them tight to the painting?

www.stevefabian.com

[Flycatcher10]

I also use the Logan point driver that I got at a steep discount at Michael’s. The glazier points were rough on my fingers trying to push them into the frame.

Mary
www.oilpastelsbymary.com
www.oilpastelsociety.com

[Dandy]

I see you have a bit of a problem. First of all, I want to ask why you don’t want to use a paper backing? It is the most secure option for attaching the photo to the frame. Besides, it can be removed afterwards. If you want to secure multiple photos to the board, I suggest using hot glue or superglue. These are the most reliable options. I also have an unusual idea for you, but I don’t know if this is possible in your situation. If the photo is too difficult to mount, you could try it beyond print and mount the printed version. It will look good, but if you get too close, you’ll notice that it’s not a regular canvas. So I leave that option up to you.

[ricksframes.com]

Some secure painting to frame (fitting) options that I use

http://www.thegallery.us/fitting/default.htm

[Author]

Posts