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August 23, 2013 at 6:05 am #1191817
I have quite a few palettes lying idle. I tend to use the Heritage palette with the rubber seal for everything these days. I have wasted a ton of paint filling palettes which I hardly ever use.
Doug
We must leave our mark on this worldAugust 23, 2013 at 8:33 am #1191827I have many palettes too and really like my Stephen Quiller palette. It’s set up in a circle; like a color wheel. I love my travel Koi box palette too for quick sketches and washes. FOr years I used a tin box one and really liked it but gave it to my son; and have always been sad about that. I may just have to purchase another one.:evil:
Darla
If I create from the heart, nearly everything works: if from the head, almost nothing. — Marc Chagall
August 26, 2013 at 3:43 am #1191849Jane: My curiosity has got the better of me.
Are those paint stains on the flaps of your Little Brass Box palette?
If so, are they removable.
AlexHi Alex
Yes they are paint stains from testing out PR122 in different brands. And yes they are removable, with ‘Gumption’ or ‘Marble paste’ or other very slightly abrasive cleaners, and have been removed. If I keep away from that pigment (or that brand?) I don’t seem to have a problem. John, who made it, said you can drop the whole thing in bleach but I just couldn’t do that. I should have cleaned it before posting sorry! Has yours arrived yet?Cheers, JaneAugust 26, 2013 at 6:33 am #1191830Another thing that has intrigued me.
What is the best way of loading tube paint into paint wells, especially the shallow ones for example, as shown in CharM’s palette (as well as others) ?
I am particularly curious as to how to get the paint so evenly distributed so that it does not protrude above the sides of the wells.
I tend to use cocktail sticks to try to get it even.Cherish yesterday,dream tomorrow,live today
August 26, 2013 at 6:48 am #1191818I fill my palette straight from the tube and level it out with a palette knife. In use all colours develop a depression.
Doug
We must leave our mark on this worldAugust 26, 2013 at 8:23 pm #1191835Jaqne
Glad to see that the stains are removable, with some abrasive. We don’t have “Gumption” in this part of the world. We do have “Vim” a mild cream abrasive. Haven’t got to that stage yet. Yes I have received my palette box from Little Brass Box Co. quite some time ago. John had sent it 5 weeks earlier than originally quoted. Its a nice piece of work, well made, well finished and a good size.The Binning Munroe box looks very tempting! Love to have that in my studio.
Cheers
AlexAugust 27, 2013 at 12:09 am #1191850Jaqne
Glad to see that the stains are removable, with some abrasive. We don’t have “Gumption” in this part of the world. We do have “Vim” a mild cream abrasive. Haven’t got to that stage yet. Yes I have received my palette box from Little Brass Box Co. quite some time ago. John had sent it 5 weeks earlier than originally quoted. Its a nice piece of work, well made, well finished and a good size.The Binning Munroe box looks very tempting! Love to have that in my studio.
Cheers
AlexI am looking at a travel sized brass palette that is between my palette box and my tiny box – one that holds 24 colours (smaller than half pans) to take everywhere. I love using the brass ones so much that my plastic ones feel a bit icky now, and my schmincke metal one doesn’t do it for me either. Oh the choices we have!
Cheers, JaneAugust 27, 2013 at 1:34 am #1191839My favorite is the John Pike palette. I know even some people who use the Pike palette for plein air, but I need a more compact option for that purpose. That’s why I think the Holbein folding metal palette is still overall the best option, it is very compact and slim, very light yet strong, has a lot of mixing space, easy to clean, and it is not too expensive, and there is enough room even to carry a sponge and brushes in it. I don’t have a problem with the wells on the lid as I reserve those for paints that set promptly.
I like the Heritage and the Herring palettes a lot too.I imagine the CY would be a favorite, but have not seen one in person yet (I have checked the CY paintboxes of a couple of friends and disliked the weight and the high profile and particularly disliked the oval wells–I think the palette box a much better design).
Facebook: facebook.com/MarcioCorreaArt
Blog: http://marciosart.blogspot.com/August 27, 2013 at 6:35 am #1191843Beware of Gumption, Vim or other bath cleaners – they are far too abrasive.
Try a “Magic Eraser”
Cheers
Tred"When I see a jumble; I paint just that" - John Yardley
August 27, 2013 at 7:16 am #1191824I agree with you Tred… any kind of abrasive will forever change the surface of your mixing area.
A white eraser rubbed over a plastic palette surface will return it to white. Of course, it leaves behind some eraser bits that have to be dealt with carefully so they don’t get into your wells. But, there’s no abrasion.
I also caution against using the Magic Eraser because it contains some amount of formaldehyde.
Char --
CharMing Art -- "Where the spirit does not work with the hand, there is no art." Leonardo DaVinci
August 27, 2013 at 6:23 pm #1191846I recently filled my pallet wells with tube watercolors and when they dried they all cracked. Does anyone know why this happens?. I use American Journey from cheap joes. I like these paints other than the cracking. It is very dry here in Idaho. Maybe that is it.
August 27, 2013 at 6:37 pm #1191842I’ve used AJ paints from Cheap’s for over 20 years and haven’t had this problem except for palettes that I don’t use for a year or more. That said, some paints and pigments dry differently than others.
I’d suggest you spritz your palette weekly or use a little honey or other moisture additive periodically. Hope this helps.
Sling paint,
VirgilSling paint,
Virgil Carter
http://www.virgilcarterfineart.com/August 27, 2013 at 7:07 pm #1191840I live in a dry climate too, and paint will crack and shrink if poured all at once and allowed to dry very quickly… it is better to pour it in layers, allowing each layer to dry fully before adding the next, it may require three pours or so… also, put a damp sponge inside the palette while the paint dries, that will slow the drying and allow the paint to work its plasticity without cracking. You see, multiple pours, controlled environment, patience, there is a science to pouring, that’s why pans are expensive
Facebook: facebook.com/MarcioCorreaArt
Blog: http://marciosart.blogspot.com/August 27, 2013 at 8:03 pm #1191851Another thing that has intrigued me.
What is the best way of loading tube paint into paint wells, especially the shallow ones for example, as shown in CharM’s palette (as well as others) ?
I am particularly curious as to how to get the paint so evenly distributed so that it does not protrude above the sides of the wells.
I tend to use cocktail sticks to try to get it even.My advice is not to fill the wells! Have a look at my reasoning here http://janeblundellart.blogspot.com.au/2013/05/the-advantages-of-only-partially.html
Cheers, JaneAugust 27, 2013 at 8:36 pm #1191825I really do not see the advantage of trying to fill the wells… :confused: I mean, how long does it really take to refresh them with new pigment when they run low? And it’s much easier to reconstitute the smaller amounts…
Char --
CharMing Art -- "Where the spirit does not work with the hand, there is no art." Leonardo DaVinci
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