Home Forums Explore Media Watercolor The Learning Zone Experimenting with chalk resist. (masking fluid alternative)

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  • #994415

    According to this site:
    Chalk resist: Chalk resist is a thick paste made from powdered chalk mixed with water. This paste is brushed onto the desired areas of a sheet; once it is dry, the thick layer of chalk protects the underlying paper from wet watercolor washes. The chalk can be easily removed by counter-rolling the sheet or by rubbing it gently with a knife to reveal the clean white paper underneath.

    Why do I refer to this?
    Recently I encountered various problems with my masking fluid a Talens one.

    First I almost fainted while I was masking some areas on one of my paintings due to its terrible ammonia smell.
    And second.. Look what this thing did on my painting!!! :eek: :(

    Though I remove it completely this thing stained my paper. :eek:

    Anyway.. the combination of terrible toxic smell with THIS result made me look for an alternative solution.
    Searching up and down the web I end up to the above “old recipe” and I decided to give it a try.

    Well.. it worked perfectly as you can see on this unfinished sketch.

    So I will present you here how I made and how I used the chalk resist as an alternative to masking fluid.

    As this tutorial is going to have plenty of photographs that I can’t post on one post, please avoid to write something until I finish.

    First I bought a piece of chalk. Classic chalk for school use of the kind that is used on black boards. Not the synthetic one though. The chalk I bought is of the dusty kind one.

    Then I crashed it in my mortar until it turned in a very fine powder.


    Another photo here.

    I put a small quantity on a porcelain plate and I mixed it with a little water

    And then with a tea spoon I mixed it and rub it well until it got a creamy consistency.

    The final mix looked like this:

    To be continued below..

    #1257748

    The mix was ready to use.
    The sketch I decided to work is some marbles. (reference photograph from the RIL).
    I wanted to mask the marbles areas in order to work with the background.

    Below I’m applying the chalk resist on my paper.
    Chalk when mixed with water get a creamy colour. So it is easy to detect it even when it is dry.
    On the other hand chalk doesn’t destroy the brushes as it can be rinsed completely of their bristles with water.
    So any brush is suitable for applying it on your paper. Just wash your brush afterwards in your water container. Below you can see the brush I used. A no 5 synthetic.

    Below you can see various steps of the chalk resist application. All the images were shot with my camera and are close ups.

    After finishing the application I washed my brush..

    And look!! It came out perfectly clean. No damage and not stuck bristles.

    And below is the sketch scanned with the chalk resist dried. As you can see it has a pinky beige colour.

    While it was drying I prepared my colours.

    Then I wetted my paper as I wanted to make a wet on wet background.

    As you can see the dry chalk changes colours when it gets wet.. but it stays in its place. ( I had to change a bit the contrast on this shot in order to see clearer the wet surface. The colour of the wet chalk is not brown of course).

    And then I applied my colours.

    To be continued. ( don’t post anything yet please).

    #1257749

    And below is the application of colour on my background (scanned after it dried).

    Now it was time to remove it.
    According to what I read online old masters used to roll the back of the paper on the edge of their desk in order to break somehow the chalk.

    I made my sketch on my sketchbook and so this wasn’t so convenient. So I rolled a bit the paper with my hand ..

    And then I thought something better.
    I took a plastic card and I scrubbed the chalk of the paper.
    Look below how I did it.

    It is very very easy to remove it this way. I scrubbed it well until all chalk turned into powder again. ( I threw the powder in the bin). In order to be sure that there was no residue left on my paper I rubbed the surface with a dry soft cloth. ( a kitchen towel :lol:- just in case).

    And below are the areas that I masked after removing the chalk.

    I applied colour on some of the marbles in order to see that the paper was perfectly workable after removing the resist. I also lifted some colour from the background AND I re masked some highlights on top of the already applied colours.

    Conclusion:
    Who said that old recipes don’t work?
    In this case the chalk resist worked better than the modern masking fluids.

    Its pros:

    It doesn’t smell.
    It is easy to apply
    It doesn’t destroy the brushes so you can take advantage of their precision during application.
    It doesn’t stain the paper.
    It is easy to remove.
    It can be applied above dried colours.
    It is easy to made and it is not costly.

    Its cons?
    None. I can’t find any disadvantage.

    Below is my study finished.

    Thank you for reading my review tutorial.

    You can now post whatever you like. I’ll be glad to answer any questions.

    THE END. :)

    #1257734

    Fascinating technique, Marialena. Looks like a great way to mask out areas in a painting before applying paint and then be able to remove it an paint in the area previously covered. :thumbsup:

    I’ll add this to The Watercolor Handbook tomorrow. :D

    Sylvia

    #1257739
    D’Lady
    Default

        Excellent tutorial! I hate masking fluid, so I’ll have to give this a try.

        You can buy the chalk as powder at the hardware store. It’s sold in a container with a pointed nozzle for using in chalkline markers for construction and bricklaying and such.

        -DragonLady

        Which would be the bigger waste:
        your art supplies, or your creative soul?

        #1257737

        I don’t know how you came upon this method, but it’s certainly interesting! And, from the look of your beautiful marbles, well worth trying! I’ve never been a fan of masking fluid, so this may well be a better alternative.

        Char --

        CharMing Art -- "Where the spirit does not work with the hand, there is no art." Leonardo DaVinci

        #1257750

        Excellent tutorial! I hate masking fluid, so I’ll have to give this a try.

        You can buy the chalk as powder at the hardware store. It’s sold in a container with a pointed nozzle for using in chalkline markers for construction and bricklaying and such.

        Give it a try just make sure that you’ll buy the real chalk and not the dust free alternative that are synthetic. I can’t guarantee the results with them as I haven’t test them.

        I know that there is chalk in hardware stores. It exists also in art materials stores here for use as a preparation for various surfaces of icon paintings, but I didn’t want to buy a bag before testing if the chalk resist recipe works.

        @ Char
        I came up with this method by reading the description I’ve posted on the top of the first post. I says exactly what to do and I did it. It worked on my first sketch and I thought that it would be useful to remake and photograph the test and post it here.

        #1257743
        janinco
        Default

            I have powdered calcium carbonate which is what natural chalk is made of. I’ll experiment with it and see what happens.

            https://www.nowfoods.com/supplements/calcium-carbonate-powder

            Calcium carbonate is what is used to buffer watercolor paper and make it neutral pH so it won’t hurt it at all.

            “Saunders Waterford® is an exquisite watercolour paper, traditionally made on a cylinder mould machine. This is the superior quality watercolour paper made by St Cuthberts Mill and comes with the Royal Watercolour Society’s endorsement. Made using 100% cotton, the highest quality papermaking material, to high archival standards. Each sheet is buffered with calcium carbonate to help defend finished pieces of work from discolouration caused by acids present in atmospheric pollution.”

            Jan

            #1257760
            shadye1
            Default

                Excellent tutorial, the finished piece is superb.

                #1257757
                Triduana
                Default

                    This is really interesting, thanks for sharing. I’d never heard of this before. Sounds like a good alternative to masking fluid (which I hate using).

                    Kay D - Edinburgh, Scotland

                    So long, and thanks ...

                    #1257744
                    janinco
                    Default

                        I tried the calcium carbonate paste on both white paper and over an already painted area. It held lines very well when I painted up to them. I used my crepe rubber cement eraser to remove the powder when I was done. I was able to paint right over the previously masked areas with no problem and it didn’t remove any of the existing paint or change the color.

                        It does’t work well to do a wet wash over it like you can with masking fluid. Some dissolved onto the brush and then made the paint next to it chalky. However it did show me how I could make a great steam or fog effect without using something like white gouache. Since there’s no pigment, just a little chalk, it’s see-through and very believable.

                        Thanks for the tip!

                        Jan

                        #1257751

                        I tried the calcium carbonate paste on both white paper and over an already painted area. It held lines very well when I painted up to them. I used my crepe rubber cement eraser to remove the powder when I was done. I was able to paint right over the previously masked areas with no problem and it didn’t remove any of the existing paint or change the color.

                        It does’t work well to do a wet wash over it like you can with masking fluid. Some dissolved onto the brush and then made the paint next to it chalky. However it did show me how I could make a great steam or fog effect without using something like white gouache. Since there’s no pigment, just a little chalk, it’s see-through and very believable.

                        Thanks for the tip!

                        Jan

                        Thanks Jan for posting your results here! :heart:

                        Hm hm.. I’m not sure that we tested the same thing ( substance ) because the one that I used didn’t dissolve when I applied over it a colour wash. I did this on the first sketch with the tulip where I masked its stem and the leaf and then I made the background wash.

                        The chalk I used was for school use and left a white residue on my fingers before I turned it from a stick into powder in my mortar. The chalk you used is a food supplement…is it any chance to be something mixed in there?? Sometimes pills have a gelatine coating in order to be easier swallowed. Did these pills left any residue on your fingers?

                        I don’t have this crepe rubber eraser to test if it can remove the chalk resist of the paper, but the chalk I tested became hard as some sort of plaster.. I can’t see how this eraser would be able to remove something so hard dried ( that is the reason I scrubbed it after all as you can see in the photos). The old recipe said that they broke it off the paper, so when I saw my chalk drying that hard on the paper I thought that I was on a good road. I mean that this was what I had to expect..

                        Anyway..I’m not saying that you did something wrong. But it is obvious that the results vary according the substances of the “chalk” ( in quotes as I don’t know the substances of mine) is used.

                        So, and that goes to ALL, better test the chalk you are going to use, before you use it on a painting. :)

                        #1257745
                        janinco
                        Default

                            I checked to see if blackboard chalk now contains calcium sulfate which is gypsum, and it does. That’s why it dried hard…it’s the component in plaster of paris (which is used to make casts and stucco). What I was using is pure calcium carbonate powder (no additives) which would not have as much water resistance.

                            It looks like some chalk is a combination of the two which would be best because calcium sulfate is slightly acidic. And you’re right, calcium sulfate would have to be scraped off with a palette knife or card like you used. I’m not sure what components are in the chalk sold in hardware stores. Technically either forms of calcium can be called chalk although calcium sulfate is gypsum and calcium carbonate is calcite.

                            Jan

                            #1257746
                            janinco
                            Default

                                By the way, I am very allergic to most making fluids, but I do fine with the newer Pebeo drawing gum. This is from an email they sent me:

                                Good day!

                                Is your drawing gum bearing the AP seal? Looks BLUE

                                IF so , chances are you are using the drawing gum created for school children!! ….

                                Keep in mind as well that when you are using drawing gum- this is to be used very temporarily. Only for a few hours, until the paint in dry…up to a few days.

                                Not for weeks…otherwise it will be sucked in the paper.

                                ALSO – We have 2 Drawing Gum formulas.

                                · Traditional formula, with natural latex. _ Looks GREY

                                o CL seal, with irritant warning.

                                o 45ml item #033000CAN, bar code # 3167860072107.

                                o 250ml item #372000CAN, bar code # 3167860072411.

                                · NEW low odor formula, with synthetic latex. Looks BLUE

                                o AP seal, non-toxic.

                                o 45ml item # 033000, bar code # 3167860330009.

                                o 250ml item # 372000, bar code # 3167863720005.

                                The Drawing gum ‘blue formula’ is non allergenic, and AP rated under the Lhama CPSIA norm ASTM D-4236. This formula is very convenient for non adult users, as elementary schools students….as many children are sensitive to latex these years!

                                This NEW formula does not contain any natural latex.

                                AS for the Drawing GUM ‘grey formula’, based on LATEX, this is the ‘adult users version’ which is skin irritant and therefore CL rated under the Lhama CPSIA norm ASTM D-4236. But is tremendously appreciated by artist and art teachers for adult classes for the perfect results it offers.

                                Read more about the certifications AP and CL at this link.
                                http://www.acminet.org/

                                So when you pick your bottles yourself on a store shelf, you can know which is which.

                                And for the USA retailers ordering to us, the reference number is different one from the other, so it is easy to make the distinction between the two for them.

                                Some artists think the children’s version is not a high quality but I haven’t found any difference. I do remove it within a day but did do an experiment where I left it for a couple of weeks and still not damage to the paper. It has a very weak ammonia smell (nothing like the other brands I’ve used) and I don’t react to the latex in it since it is synthetic.

                                Jan

                                #1257741
                                ErnstG
                                Default

                                    Wow Marialena, this technique is excellent!
                                    My paper is very sensitive and masking fluid is dangerous.

                                    Ernst


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