Help With Canson Problem ....

[Kathryn Wilson]

One of my students did a nice little pastel painting, but the paper has a crease in it. It's not a sharp crease, more like a rub through the paper ....

anybody have any tricks or tips to get rid of creases in Canson?

I suggested an iron - that did not work.

We may have to crop the painting and that will be a shame

[winecountry]

I wonder if very slightly dampening the back of the crease area and pressing it between pads of newsprint paper and some books would work.....I'd experiment first with a scrap.

[Kathryn Wilson]

It's a thought - I told her that even if it didn't work or it ruined that portion of the painting, what has she got to lose? She can't show it like it is.

[winecountry]

she could try steaming the back too and then pressing...canson's thick it shouldn't be a problem...let us know in case it happens to me sometime...

[allydoodle]

What about dry mounting it to foam core? That just might flatten out the crease. You could attach the paper to the foamcore by first afixing a piece of tracing paper held secure to the painting so it doesn't slide around, then smooth on top of the tracing paper to help it adhere to the foam core. It might work.

I wouldn't wet the paper, as I have found that accidental drops of water don't dry to the original texture. Moisture seems to leave the paper changed/altered/buckled somehow, and not necessarily in a good way.

Hope this helps.

[Kathryn Wilson]

Can you dry mount something that's been painted?

[allydoodle]

Can you dry mount something that's been painted?

I don't see why you couldn't. It's just a spray adhesive to the back of the paper/painting (or the foamcore), and adhered to your mount (foamcore board). I would do it myself, not put it through some professional machine that might destroy the painting. If it is done by hand the way I described, with an archival spray glue, it just might work. It might be worth a try. I think I would give it a go, if I really wanted to save the piece. I wouldn't know what glue to advise you to use. I would do a little research first, to see what was archival, in a spray can. I'm no expert on this, I'm thinking it just might work though.

[Kathryn Wilson]

I'm also thinking there are mounting sheets? They might work - I think spraying might be inconsistent? I've not done either, so if anyone else has done this, join in!

[allydoodle]

I'm also thinking there are mounting sheets? They might work - I think spraying might be inconsistent? I've not done either, so if anyone else has done this, join in!

I have heard of the mounting sheets, I think Paula has used them??? Maybe that's where I've heard of them??? That just might be the ticket.

I just remembered this product, I think this is what Paula (or someone here on Wet Canvas) has used

http://www.dickblick.com/products/gr...mounting-film/

It just might work, and it's acid free and archival.

[PeggyB]

Kat it is easy to dry mount a pastel that is complete. I've never used them, but Paula seems to have good success with the contact paper. It is more expensive than using prefessional spray fixative, but not as messy either. Here is the method I've used many times since I frequently have pastelists bring finished work to me for mounting on foam board. Lay the artwork flat on a surface that has been protected with paper such as the brown variety that's fequently used for backing on a wooden frame. If it isn't large, an opened up paper bag will work just as well. I don't use newspaper simply because I don't want any chance of newsprint getting on the work (it might not anyway, but I don't take a chance). You can either do this outside on a calm day or create a "spray booth" by surrounding the paper on 3 sides with upright pieces of cardboard or a large cardboard box of which you cut away one side. Begin the spray process off the piece of artword and slowly move the can across the artwork to completely off the other side. After you spray it in one direction, move the can 90 degrees and spray the other direction. Now carefully pick the artwork up and place it on the foam board. Don't try to cut the foam board to size before mounting the artwork. It is too much trouble trying to line up the edges. Since you don't have a vacuum press, cover the artwork with glissine and then another piece of brown paper. Firmly press down on the whole thing. If you have a rolling pin, you can use that but be careful not to push so hard you make a dent in the foam board. I've also used a warm, dry iron to press it in place because I find it easier to move the iron firmly but not to firm than a rolling pin.

A vacuum press would more than likely remove any small crease in Canson, but I can't say for certain that mounting it without a vacuum press will do as well. Paula might be able to give good advise concerning the contact paper and how it might work for this problem.

Peggy

[robertsloan2]

Dry mounting it sounds like the best possibility. If it needs to be cropped it can always be cropped after it's dry mounted. Also if the crease disturbed the painting surface, once it's dry mounted it might be easier to go over the creased portion to fix it since it'd be flat.

[Kathryn Wilson]

Thanks to Allydoodle, Peggy and Robert for your suggestions - I'll let you know if it was successful, or not.

[Paula Ford]

Originally Posted by allydoodle

I have heard of the mounting sheets, I think Paula has used them??? Maybe that's where I've heard of them??? That just might be the ticket.

I just remembered this product, I think this is what Paula (or someone here on Wet Canvas) has used

http://www.dickblick.com/products/gr...mounting-film/

It just might work, and it's acid free and archival.

Yup, that was me Chris. I think Double Tack would work beautifully with Canson, but mounting before painting.