Calligraphy Online Tutorials - Page 15

marie_d · #**211** 08-24-2010, 05:03 PM

Thank you Geoff.....sometime in the near future hopefully I can get around to doing a small

sampler of the batarde we have just learned.
I am also looking forward to the Uncial tutorial, another one of my favourite hands.

spyrusthevirus · #**212** 08-24-2010, 06:12 PM

I'm not completely sure if this is the right topic, but I have a problem in making long straight lines. This becomes a problem especially in gothic minuscule, where straight lines are the backbone of it's whole geometry and texture. I'm able to draw fairly good letters in small sizes (4-5 mm x height), but when things become biger I'm in trouble. Any ideas?

dgford · #**213** 08-25-2010, 07:06 AM

I find that if I place my pen, at the correct nib-angle, at the starting point of the stroke, look to the exact spot where I want to finish that stroke, then --- keeping my eyes fixed on that finishing spot --- make the stroke fairly quickly and firmly, it works ! You may have to try this a few times to get the confidence and necessary pen-skill to achieve it.

I use the same method for making long flourishes on fancy letters or in Copperplate.

Sometimes I may make the desired stroke in the air, just a millimetre off the surface of the paper; a few times then when it feels right take the plunge and let the pen touch the paper. hey presto! There it is. After a few goes at this your confidence and skill will allow you to make them all directly, first time.

But we all wobble, occasionally.

How about coming on in my online tutorial?

Geoff

Hiraeth · #**214** 08-25-2010, 07:51 AM

Geoff can correct me if I'm wrong, but in executing the straight, perpendicular lines of Gothic, after you've placed your nib at the right angle at the top line of your x-height, you'll want to pull,or draw, the line down to the baseline, drawing back with your elbow, not pulling down with your fingers.

Quote:

Originally Posted by spyrusthevirus

I'm not completely sure if this is the right topic, but I have a problem in making long straight lines. This becomes a problem especially in gothic minuscule, where straight lines are the backbone of it's whole geometry and texture. I'm able to draw fairly good letters in small sizes (4-5 mm x height), but when things become biger I'm in trouble. Any ideas?

spyrusthevirus · #**215** 08-26-2010, 09:37 AM

the whole arm movement seems to be my issue. I was kinda used to it during my last year in school, when I practiced using bussiness writing methods to boost legibility and speed for my exams, but I haven't written anything that way for 3 months now and I am quite stiff. Should I try the oval exercises of copperplate again, to get it right ?

Hiraeth · #**216** 08-26-2010, 09:43 AM

I'm not sure whether practicing ovals will help with the straight lines of Gothic miniscule. I'd just try 'pulling the stroke with your elbow' instead of your fingers. See if that helps.

Quote:

Originally Posted by spyrusthevirus

the whole arm movement seems to be my issue. I was kinda used to it during my last year in school, when I practiced using bussiness writing methods to boost legibility and speed for my exams, but I haven't written anything that way for 3 months now and I am quite stiff. Should I try the oval exercises of copperplate again, to get it right ?

Hiraeth · #**217** 08-27-2010, 08:24 AM

Hi Spyrus,

I just watched this video and thought of you. Watch and see how he draws down the vertical lines using his whole arm. Obviously, this is done much larger and it's Fraktur, not Gothic, but I think it's a good illustration of what I was saying. Hope it helps.

spyrusthevirus · #**218** 08-31-2010, 07:59 PM

Tahnk you,I followed your advice and I can see much improvement, with more practice I will get it right (I hope so )...I write on a flat surface (my desc), and that seems to limit my movement, would an angled drawing board help me?

Hiraeth · #**219** 08-31-2010, 10:14 PM

I think it might. Mine is angled, though not as sharply as the one in the video. Some calligraphers work on a flat surface, others on quite an angle. Geoff would be the one to ask. I know what works for me, but that might not be the recommended angle.

Quote:

Originally Posted by spyrusthevirus

Tahnk you,I followed your advice and I can see much improvement, with more practice I will get it right (I hope so )...I write on a flat surface (my desc), and that seems to limit my movement, would an angled drawing board help me?

spyrusthevirus · #**220** 09-01-2010, 10:59 AM

may I ask where you bought your's?

Hiraeth · #**221** 09-01-2010, 11:03 AM

I built my own WAAAAY back in the early 80's. I wanted a lighted board and I couldn't afford to buy one so I drew up my own plans and built my own out of scrap lumber. I'm still using it all these years later. . . It's not so pretty but it works for me!

Quote:

Originally Posted by spyrusthevirus

may I ask where you bought your's?

spyrusthevirus · #**222** 09-01-2010, 11:52 AM

I though of making myshelf one, but I have to figure out how I will keep the board angled and keep it from sliping or falling while I use it. I hadn't htough of that box design... I don't suppose you can share with us the schematics?

Hiraeth · #**223** 09-01-2010, 12:03 PM

Mine is 36 x 24. (The front is 2in x 36 in. The back is 6 in x 36 in. The front of the side which forms the wedge shape is 2", the back of the side piece is 6".) I cut two pieces for each side and took 1/4 inch off the top of the inside piece, then glued them together. This gave me a little shelf upon which to rest the plate glass. I covered the inside of the glass with frosted contac paper to reduce glare. Not the best idea; someday I am going to buy a new piece of glass and have it etched. I drilled holes along both sides and in the back to vent the heat from the fluorescent bulbs. I cut a little notch for the extension chord. That's about it!

Quote:

Originally Posted by spyrusthevirus

I though of making myshelf one, but I have to figure out how I will keep the board angled and keep it from sliping or falling while I use it. I hadn't htough of that box design... I don't suppose you can share with us the schematics?

spyrusthevirus · #**224** 09-02-2010, 06:11 AM

sounds simple enough, I'll propably manage to do it myshelf. Althou I was thinking about an adjustable surface, where I can change it's angle (let's say, go from flat to 45 degrees, maby more).
Here is what I had in mind:
In my new home, the pevious resident has left a desk (it isn't big enough for my taste, so I can't use it as my regular desk), which I want to use for my calligraphy practice. One side of the board will somehow "grapple" on the edge of the desk(the one closer to me when I sit), while the opposite side will be raised, with the height being adjustable. I can make the "grapple" thing, but how could I make the height change? All that without it breaking or falling (it cannot slip since it is anchored on one side)...any ideas?

dgford · #**225** 09-02-2010, 07:24 AM

I don't have a light-board / light-box / light-table so am not able to advise from perrsonal experience. But I have used a couple of different ones at a pblisher's workroom. The side adjustments (to change the angle of the working surface) were made on either side from a window shutter fitment --- a sort of elbow bend arrangement with a wing-nut to tighten and lock it in place, wherever chosen. The floor of the box was lined with reflective foil to give an even distribution of light. I think that the most important thing is to ensure that the top near edge of the box is at the height which is comfortable for you when sitting on the chair you have selected to use. By the way, I have for the last 25 years worked standing up, so my adjustable working table is quite high with the near edge at just above my hip level.

Geoff

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