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Old 10-19-2009, 04:54 PM
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Gouache paint: making your own

Both watercolor and gouache use gum arabic as the main binder ingredient in the paint. Watercolor can be the most difficult to get right since you want it to thin down nicely and work well in washes. With gouache that's less a problem so it's probably the easiest of all paints to make. The only issue is finding all the ingredients. Essentially you just mix it all together and start painting. If you paint in gouache exclusively or often, you'll find making your own paint a more economical option than buying commercial brands off the shelf. The recipe below gives me good results with any pigment.



BINDER:
2 tablespoons gum arabic powder
4 tablespoons distilled water
Pour water in a blender and add powder slowly while blending. Let sit 1 hour and spoon off any foam. A faster method is to heat the water to boiling, add gum slowly while stirring, let cool to room temperature. The blender often gives me a clearer liquid. Strain liquid through a cheesecloth if it's lumpy.

3 ounces honey and water (1:1) warmed into solution
3 ounces glycerin
1 teaspoon oxgall (optional)
3 teaspoons dextrin powder
Mix together in a warmed bowl and add in gum arabic solution slowly while stirring.

1-2 drops preservative: Oil of clove, Thymol, or even concentrated Lysol will work

PAINT:
2-4 tablespoons dry pigment
1-2 tablespoons Binder
1 teaspoon Calcium carbonate as an optional filler to help bulk up thin paint

Place pigment on a large clean glass or plexiglass plate. I usually dump out about 1 teaspoon of pigment at a time, which is shown below.
Make an indentation in the pigment pile. Add a small amount of binder solution and mix together thoroughly. A good target is half as much binder as pigment (1:2) but some pigments require less. Keep adding just enough binder to make a smooth paint to your liking.





Spread out a swatch of fresh paint on a clean spot of the mixing plate. I typically just rub some of it with my finger making about a 1 inch circle. Let that air dry for several minutes COMPLETELY (this will likely take longer than you think - give it 20-30 minutes or so.) Rub the dried paint with a cloth. If paint completely lifts then the mixture is too weak or there's not enough binder. A little staining on the cloth is acceptable. If the dried paint has cracks then it has too much binder. Those can be hairline cracks, so I like to make a high-res computer scan of the dried paint to be certain.



Notes:
If the pigment paste is too rough or grainy you may need to grind it down some. Large glass mullers are okay if you plan on making lots of paint, but a small porcelain mortar and pestle will do a good job for small amounts. Grinding is often not necessary. A small flexible spatula or palette knife often works well enough.

Hunt online for good prices on gum arabic, sometimes @ $12-15 a pound. You can find it already in liquid form but at higher cost.

The honey water mixture can be optional, but is extremely easy to find, plus it seems to aid with blending characteristics of the paint.

Dextrin is used in brewing beer, dying fabrics, and pyrotechnics, so shop around. It typically comes from corn and can be the hardest thing to find sometimes. Other starches might substitute, like rice. Store these powders in a dry area kept at a comfortable room temperature.

Oxgall (from the gall bladder of oxen) improves paint absorbancy and the wetting of pigments. It is often sold diluted in jars at art stores in their watercolor section. Grain alcohol or denatured alcohol can also help with wetting the pigments. You could leave these out of the binder mixture and only add them when necessary while making paint. Even for pigments that don't need it, it won't hurt anything by being there.

Using a preservative will extend the paint to several years storage and help protect against pests and mold. Thymol (oil of thyme) is sold for finger or toenail fungal treatment and as an insecticide, so check in drugstores or garden supply. They can slow down the drying time somewhat, especially oil of cloves.

There are commercial brands of ready made binders (if you're lazy ) from Schmincke, Sennelier and Maimeri (possibly others.) I've never used any of these personally, but they're available if you want to try them.
There are also commercial watercolor binders; although, they likely will not contain dextrin which aids adhesion of the higher pigment load, and keeps the mixed paint from getting too stringy.

I've used this mixture over the years many times. I welcome others to test it out and let me know how it works for them.
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Old 10-19-2009, 06:42 PM
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Re: Gouache paint: making your own

David, I don't know that I'll ever do this but knowing what to do and how it's done is very important. It teaches me things about the medium I wouldn't know otherwise. I really appreciate the detailed descriptions and the photographs.

You never know, one of these days I might give it a try. You're right, it sure would save on expense. Thank you!

Deborah
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Old 10-20-2009, 04:37 AM
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Re: Gouache paint: making your own

David, nice of you to post this. Are there not dangers in pigment use? Can one avoid the cadmiums and get good color?
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Old 10-20-2009, 10:22 AM
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Re: Gouache paint: making your own

Quote:
Originally Posted by giancarlo80
David, nice of you to post this. Are there not dangers in pigment use? Can one avoid the cadmiums and get good color?

Pigments are the most hazardous element in paints, some moreso than others, so it's always a good idea to be well informed about their risks. Thanks for bringing this up, since it's the most important thing about making your own paint, and not something to take lightly. Inhalation is likely the biggest concern, so you might consider using a respirator if you mix up large amounts. Latex gloves can help also. Don't work or clean up in the kitchen or your dining area.

This site gives a reasonably accurate listing of pigment hazards you may find useful. Anything "extremely toxic" I would say avoid unless you really know what you're doing and have a proper work area. It's wise to handle all pigments with the same amount of care, even if they have no significant risk.

There are decent pigment substitutes for cadmiums, but they have different features (less opaque, more saturated, etc.) Although cadmiums are "highly toxic" that doesn't necessarily mean don't use them. You just need to be extra careful. They also tend to be more expensive and harder to find as a result. As such, you might want to save those paints as commercial brands you buy.

One option is called water dispersion pigments. These are sold suspended in water, and can be used with less water in the recipe above. Because they're in liquid form there's less concern about inhalation. Kama Pigments and Natural Pigments are places that carry them.
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Old 10-20-2009, 10:43 AM
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Re: Gouache paint: making your own

Here's a list of pigment suppliers to consider:
Sinopia
RGH
Natural Pigments
Kremer
Zecchi
Kama
Guerra
Earth Pigments

Some paint companies like Sennlier and Pebeo also sell pigment powders. Createx is another aqua dispersion supplier.
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Old 10-21-2009, 01:48 PM
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Re: Gouache paint: making your own

Good thread. I've been making my own gouache paints for a while as well, and a few transparent watercolors and inks too. I use gum arabic and honey, and oil of clove for preservative, mixed mostly with my own handmade pigments and a few bought earths. I find that with too little or no honey, some gouache paints will dry to a rock in the pan, requiring much wetting and scrubbing to reactivate; but too much honey and the paint won't dry at all, ever. I'm still experimenting for the right balance - I'll try the proportions in the recipe you posted. I haven't tried the oxgall yet, though I've been meaning to.

Different pigments work quite differently when making this opaque or semi-opaque medium. Transparent or even semi-transparent pigments, such as most modern lakes, will normally require more binder to bring out their color qualities, so they can't be made opaque by using less binder as is normal for gouache. That's when it becomes necessary to add some of the chalk to opacify them. (Madder lake has been impossible to make a good gouache from - it just doesn't want to be opaque.) Others, like some earth pigments, will "opaque up" nicely on their own just by using less binder. Each pigment needs experimenting to find the right mix.

naturalpigments.com has a decent watercolor medium, good for paint grinding newbies, and some glass mullers.
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Old 10-21-2009, 03:27 PM
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Re: Gouache paint: making your own

Honey is a humectant that helps add some flexibility as well as holding mositure. Corn syrup is sometimes mentioned as a substitute. Glycerin helps slow down the drying some. You could lessen or omit these but I wouldn't increase the amounts since that can cause drying problems. I've also substituted methycellulose for the dextrin. Go easy with that as well since the gum arabic should be the main binding agent.

You might also want to do your own lightfast tests to see how your mixtures hold up. Poorly lightfast pigments/dyes tend to fade rather quickly under direct sunlight.
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Old 10-21-2009, 04:05 PM
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Re: Gouache paint: making your own

I'm planning a lightfastness testing extravaganza for my pigments in the spring and summer of next year, but I already know a lot of the pigments I make are going to turn out fugitive. That's okay - they're intended primarily for illustration work.
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Old 10-21-2009, 05:02 PM
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Re: Gouache paint: making your own

Interesting. Why is the use of a muller not necessary? Everything I have ever read about making oil or watercolor paint says it has to be ground.
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Old 10-22-2009, 10:20 AM
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Re: Gouache paint: making your own

Mulling will depend on the pigment and where it comes from. Some pigments work fine as is, others are very gritty or have a tendency to clump together in storage. If after making the paste it still feels rough then grinding will be necessary, but a large muller is often overkill.

In the "wipe with a cloth test" I mentioned above, if it stains the cloth heavily or lifts off the glass then it's possible that the pigment is not properly coated with binder, which is where grinding comes in. I've found that I rarely need to do that. This is another advantage of aqua-dispersions since that step is already done.

Mark Gottsegen's book "The Painter's Handbook" has a few chapters on making paints and charts of various pigment information that's a good reference.

This Paintmaking site is another good resource.
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Old 10-22-2009, 11:49 AM
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Re: Gouache paint: making your own

I should also mention that with watercolor you want the pigment particles to be as small as possible so that it flows well in water. For oils, the pigment needs grinding since the oil has to coat the pigment well, and oil is thicker than water, as they say.

I have a large muller but rarely use it. It forces you to make alot of paint, which for paints that spoil like tempera or casein that can be a problem. When I need to grind, I usually just use a small porcelain bowl that holds about 2 cups of liquid and pestle.

I don't often make my own gouache. Cerulean blue, for example, is a color I love dearly but it's also expensive. The paint companies that carry it only offer it in small sizes. If I were doing many gouache paintings these days I'd use it up very quickly. The last 2oz jar of cerulean pigment I bought cost me $12, so with just about another dollar worth of binder I could make @ 4oz of paint. Compare that to a 14ml (<1oz) of cerulean from W&N which costs @ $16.
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