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Old 07-18-2002, 06:17 PM
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rusticstudio rusticstudio is offline
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reduction frit -- the jury is in

...and the verdict is: I don't like it!

Maybe it's just cuz I'm on the HH, but I can't really get any colors. I do get some metallic sheen, but...



Here's two views. I can't seem to capture the true look but maybe you can see. The tabular bead has the nicest frit, but I burned the sh*t out of the base glass. The triangle has pretty good color, but looks like enamel.

The blue one has Iris Green on it. Does look kinda cool. The middle yellow had Iris dark blue and the yellow on the right has Copper ruby. Slightly metallic, and very little color. Mostly black.

Is this what this frit is supposed to do? I don't know what it's "supposed" to look like. I am using foil to cover the air holes to "reduce" after I melt the bits in. Is this correct? Comments?
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Old 07-18-2002, 06:37 PM
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Ann*S Ann*S is offline
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Hi Patty,
I use both a minor and a Hothead, depending on where I am that week. The frit comes out the same for me whichever I use. I just hold the final bead very close to the HH torch..it's louder when you do this, until the metallic starts to come up. I've never covered holes but I guess you could. This was done on a HH on white with silver foil and Transparent Blue Iris, reduced.
Just keep trying. It'll work.
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Old 07-18-2002, 06:37 PM
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MaureenKennedy MaureenKennedy is offline
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Patty - I too am on a hothead. Don't give up on the reduction frit yet. First of all, I think the base color has alot to do with effect. I use ivory alot, tried pea green lately with good results, turquoise opacque and transparent - but hardly ever white or yellows.
Below is pic of recent bead set. After I melt the RF in the bead, I then turn up the flame and then put the cool bead about 1/2 up from the brass head and twirl a few times. I don't shut off my air vales at all. Good Luck
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Old 07-18-2002, 07:09 PM
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I am on a minor, and reduction frit can be a hit and miss kinda thing for me too! Remember that it is a chemistry thing. All the variables have to be just right to get the reaction. Getting reduction metals to emerge is likeany other skill, it takes practice, practice practice. Once you have done it a million-zillion times you will know just where and for how long to hold it in your flame to get the desired result. Just keep trying. Reduction powder seems to work a little easier for me too, btw.
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Old 07-18-2002, 10:03 PM
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Patty - my reduction frit beads look EXACTLY like yours. They look NOTHING like Ann's - why is that??? I have been less than thrilled with redux frits and I can't for the life of me figure out what the heck I'm doing different than the rest of the world...

Do you ROLL the bead in frit on the marver?
Do you PLACE the frit on the bead with tweezers/pliers?
Do you use LARGE, MEDIUM, SMALL or GRANULATED frit?
Do you roll it in a LOT or just use SPARINGLY?

Inquiring minds want a tutorial...

B2
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Old 07-18-2002, 11:14 PM
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Shirley C. Shirley C. is offline
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Yikes! I've gotten a few emails from folks who are partipating in the reduction frit bead exchange, expressing their frustration working with the stuff.

When I work with it, there are two different things that I do. I either roll the bead in the frit (I use small frit), or I make stringer with the frit and use that to decorate the bead. Often, I combine both techniques. Here's some information I sent back to the exchange participants based on my experience with it.

When I make stringer, I use transparent pale amber as the base glass. I get a gather of it, and then roll it in copper ruby small frit. I usually roll it about 3 times, melting it in after each roll. When I pull out the stringer, you can hardly tell there's reduction frit on it.

I find that if I make dots with that stringer, I have to leave the dots somewhat raised or else when I reduce it, it looks kinda lousy. I've had good results putting these dots on dark ivory or on transparent glass. Tese are SMALL dots that Im talking about. Imade a set on opaque pearl gray, but those were real touchy. Sometimes when I'd reduce, the gray glass where there was no stringer decoration looked like it had soot on it.

Before I reduce, I rotate the entire bead in a neutral flame, take it out of the flame for a bit, then turn up the propane so that I get a very yellow flame. I then rotate the bead fairly close to the torch about 3 times, then take it out. Sometimes my reduction looks dull, almost a raku look, and other times it looks very shiny and metallic. I can't really predict when each look will happen. I'm still learning about this stuff myself.

The bicone and "applecore" beads that I do with reduced ends are lots of fun. I make each end of the bead using transparent pale amber, roll each end in copper ruby small frit just once, then melt in the frit. Then I fill in the middle of the bead with dark ivory, decorate the middle with stuff, and melt in that stuff. When the bead is finished being decorated, I heat up each end a bit, take it out of the flame, turn up the propane, and rotate each end of the bead in the reduction flame about 3 times. I've had real good luck with these. That's how I did the ends on these beads:

http://www.wetcanvas.com/RefLib/show...php?photo=5779

http://www.wetcanvas.com/RefLib/show...php?photo=5777

I've worked with other frit colors, but I'm really partial to the copper ruby. Hope this helps a bit!
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Old 07-18-2002, 11:32 PM
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B2....
Ha!..... but that i could be an expert.... and obviously it works differently for everyone ...as you can tell by Maureen and I posting at exactly the same time and she said no white and I posted a photo of a white based bead!..That's typical.
I find that when I use my minor I watch very carefully and stop reduction before I feel the color is gone, or not, if I want it very dark. I have done several applications lightly on the bead and for me that can build up a more colorful metallic suface(I don't know if it's the right way) . I never marver the frit, even if it's the large pieces I just lightly adhere them and then melt in. With the powder or fine granules I just roll it in a little pile so I don't press the bead on anything..then melt in, then reduce. On the HH( which soon will be banished to being an emergency torch, even here in Atlanta), I always have my bulk tank barely cracked..that seems to help me both with this and with encasing. I know that everyone does this a different way and the result is seldom the same for each beadmaker..I wish I knew a defining way of making this work every time, even for me. Oh yeah..patience.
ann
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Old 07-18-2002, 11:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ann*S
I wish I knew a defining way of making this work every time, even for me. Oh yeah..patience.
ann

Well, that last sentence just blew it for me!

Thanks for the suggestions! I have never tried the stringer thing...

B2
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Old 07-19-2002, 12:19 AM
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WhiteHotGlassWorks WhiteHotGlassWorks is offline
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Shirley you have that "RF" down flat. I am still working on the process. Those are incredible beads....."WOW"........

Ann*s that is the look I would like to get. Soft and gentle......mine come out dark and heavy. Didn't think about putting it on white. Guess there is more experimenting to be done for me.

Bobby
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Old 07-19-2002, 12:54 AM
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Shirley...
Amazing! Both are just amazing. I love the core one especially. I have a long way to go. I think it's interesting, though, what different effects you can get with different methods.
..and now I'm really going to sleep.
Ann
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Old 07-19-2002, 11:03 AM
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Kathy Champion Kathy Champion is offline
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Those are beautiful Shirley....drat! I just ordered the enamels because of all of the beautiful enamelled beads that have been posted and now this? Oh well, next order!!

Thanks for sharing both your beads and your tips on using the enamels.

Kathy
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