Drafting Film & Rapidographs

[Pencil Me In]

Hi, All!

I'm very new to pen & ink, and just love the way the Rapidographs work on Dura-lene, when they work. I'm having trouble with the pens scratching the film instead of laying down ink. I can draw a line, move the pen and try to start another line, but instead I get a dry scratch and have to restart the ink flow on a piece of scratch paper (sometimes repeatedly) before the pen will write on the film again.

I'm working with a set of Koh-I-Noor Rapidograph pens, and they're brand new (not clogged yet! ). They have the stainless-steel nibs, and I'm using the Koh-I-Noor waterproof black ink that came with the set.

I've been reading up online trying to figure out what the problem is, and found that Rapidographs with stainless-steel points are designed for working on paper, and there are special jewel-tipped and tungsten-carbide points created for working with Rapidographs on drafting film - has anyone used these? Do they make a difference?

Any input/insights would be most welcome and appreciated!

Best to all,

Susan

[tvandeb]

Susan;
I use Dura-lar matte- 2 sided. I can also use tech pens; both copic sp and Rapidograph pens on it. Are you using an acetate that is a clear; that might be the problem. Dura-lar is an acetate alternative; a bit pricey , grafix has one also. I only use matte, as the clear does scratch; and it is more for using markers or micron pens. Hope that helps...

[Pencil Me In]

Originally Posted by tvandeb

Susan;
I use Dura-lar matte- 2 sided. I can also use tech pens; both copic sp and Rapidograph pens on it. Are you using an acetate that is a clear; that might be the problem. Dura-lar is an acetate alternative; a bit pricey , grafix has one also. I only use matte, as the clear does scratch; and it is more for using markers or micron pens. Hope that helps...

Hi, Tammy!

Thanks so much for your help!

The Dura-lene I have is double-sided, with a matte surface on both sides. Is Dura-lene the same stuff (polyester film) as Dura-lar? Perhaps I just need a different surface?

All the best,

Susan

[DBSullivan]

Hi Susan Welcome to the P&I forum. I really don't have anything to add as far as your question about acetate, but I did want to comment on the quote in your sig line! good stuff!

And don't be shy about posting your work here.. we like ink whether it's on paper, board, acetate, used shopping bags, whatever!

[tvandeb]

Susan:
I'm not sure about Dura-lar being polester. I know it is an acetate alternative, grafix has one too. But Bristol smooth and vellium work well also. You might want to check with the manufactor. If it is drafting film it should work with tech pens; most of the draftsmen and woman I know use
tech pens or graphite. I also use hot pressed watercolor paper, and illustation board for pen. They also take an ink wash well. Hope that helps, I look forward to seeing some of your posts!! Welcome!!!!

[objectivistartist]

With all the hoopla these days about archivalness, how does illustration board stack up on this? have heard conflicting reports - is there any 'authoritative' answer?

[Pencil Me In]

Thanks so much for your responses and your help, Tammy & Dave!

I have so much to learn about pen & ink, and just drawing in general! I'll finish up the illustration I'm working on and post it here, probably later today ...

All the best,

Susan

[Derick]

Hi Susan. I know this is an older thread but I'll still add my two cents. I was doing some research on Acetate a few months ago and found some interesting facts. one being, don't use it. I used to be a draftsman back before AutoCad came about and we used ink on mylar. It took me a little while to learn how to hold the pen correctly as not to scratch the mylar off of the acetate below. The suggested Dura-Lar Matte is a great medium. I got into the ink on acetate/plastics in this thread in the pen and ink area