Basic shape practice

**GlenTaylor** · #1 01-09-2006, 12:46 AM

Hi all, Iwanted to practice some of the thing I did not do when I started ABing. I jumped straight into the deep end. I now think this could help me and many more.

This is done as a step by step. lots of PIC so plewase check in for new work.

Thank to all the WC forum airhead you all inspire me to paint diffent subject and this is great help for me, so this is my giving back to the new members. There are many why to kill that Cat that has been skined here.LOL

The PIC is darker than in real life, the original is more blue.

Glen

**GlenTaylor** · #2 01-09-2006, 12:49 AM

The cube (not quite as this one the high is long then the width and depth) is the first shape in the mild steel range. This presentation is a simplified version, as there is no shadow. This is all done with transparent inks. The presentation only uses one mask, this is the hinged mask, I draw the cube, the mask is cut down each side, but before it is removed I tape the cut on the out side of the cube. When completed you should have six hinged tri angles. One could also use fixed mask to help with the under spray. Imagine that the light source is coming from behind you. Punching holes close to the edge of the circle would help hold it down to give a sharper edge.

Step One

Cut the acetate as required with a cutter. Place the stencil in the position required and tape it to the painting. The top ellipse will be sprayed first

Step Two

Spray dark gray lightly at the top of the ellipse. Try to spray an even light tone pattern from approximately 10 cm.

Step Three

Change the color to blue and repeat step two. This will darken the gray and leave a blue base for the mild steel look.

Note repeat step two and three for all the side of the cube.

Step Four

Change the color to white. Spray a light tone of white at the bottom of the each side of the cube. Try to spray an even light tone pattern from approximately 10 cm.

Step Five

When the cube has the required effect then spray the white highlights to the cube.

Step Six

Remove the mask and check if the effect is as required, at this point the stencil could be put back and the process of darkening or lighting the cube if required. Best to get it right first time, as this will just add to the under spray build up which must be cleaned up later.

Step Seven

To remove the under spray, I use a rubber and an eraser plate. Rub off the under spray until I get a sharp edge. This step will not be required if a fixed mask is used.

**GlenTaylor** · #3 01-09-2006, 12:51 AM

Next page of PICs

**GlenTaylor** · #4 01-09-2006, 12:55 AM

page 3 of the cube

**GlenTaylor** · #5 01-09-2006, 12:56 AM

last of the cube, Sorry no attachements

**GlenTaylor** · #6 01-09-2006, 12:58 AM

The attacment for the last page.

gtech · #7 01-09-2006, 12:58 AM

Hey, I like the way you did it.

I already did these execices, but I was cutting each side separately instead of using your method. I love it.

I will do so more of that practice with your method.

Thanks,

Gilles

**GlenTaylor** · #8 01-09-2006, 01:00 AM

The cylinder is the second shape in the mild steel range. This presentation is a simplified version, as there is no shadow. This is all done with transparent inks. The presentation only use two mask, the top ellipse is cut out as one mask, the body and the bottom ellipse is cut out together to make the second mask. One could also use fixed mask to help with the under spray. Imagine that the light source is coming from behind you. Punching holes close to the edge of the circle would help hold it down to give a sharper edge.

Step One

Cut the acetate as required with a cutter. Place the stencil in the position required and tape it to the painting. The top ellipse will be sprayed first

Step Two

Spray dark gray lightly at the top of the ellipse. Try to spray an even light tone pattern from approximately 10 cm.

Step Three

Change the color to blue and repeat step two. This will darken the gray and leave a blue base for the mild steel look.

Step Four

Change the color to white. Spray la light tone of white at the bottom of the ellipse. Try to spray an even light tone pattern from approximately 10 cm.

Step Five

Replace the first mask after the required drying time has been given mask
Place a 2mm plastic support around the work piece; this is to support the straight edge as required in the presentation. Step five and six must be done to both side of the cylinder, first the left side then the right side. Change the color to dark gray. Spray a light tone parallel to the centerline.

Step Six

Change the color to blue and repeat step five. This will darken the gray and leave a blue base for the mild steel look.

Step Seven

Remove the straight edge. Spray a very light line from bottom to top first on the left then the right side of the cylinder. This will be done freehand. Try to spray an even light tone pattern from approximately 10 cm. First spray alight tone of dark gray lightly, then repeat the same process for the bleu.

Step Eight

Change the color to white. Spray a very light thin line from bottom to top, first on the left then the right side of the cylinder. Spray a thicker line down the centerline.

Step Nine

Remove the mask and check if the effect is as required, at this point the stencil could be put back and the process of darkening or lighting the sphere if required. Best to get it right first time, as this will just add to the under spray build up which must be cleaned up later.

Step Ten

To remove the under spray, I use a rubber and an eraser plate. Rub off the under spray until I get a sharp edge. This step will not be required if a fixed mask is used.

**GlenTaylor** · #9 01-09-2006, 01:02 AM

Page two of cylinders

**GlenTaylor** · #10 01-09-2006, 01:04 AM

last page of cylinders

**GlenTaylor** · #11 01-09-2006, 01:05 AM

The sphere is the third shape in the mild steel range. This presentation is a simplified version, as there is no shadow or light reflection. This is all done with transparent inks. The presentation only use one mask, that is cut out of acetate. One could also use fixed mask to help with the under spray. Imagine that the light source is coming from behind your left shoulder.

Step One

Cut the acetate as required with a circular cutter. Place the stencil in the position required and tape it to the painting. Punching holes close to the edge of the circle would help hold it down to give a sharper edge.

Step Two

Spray dark gray in a circular pattern from approximately 10 cm. Begin to lay down a fine tone around the circle leaving a highlight in the upper left quadrant.

Step Three

Change the color to blue and repeat step two. This will darken the gray and leave a blue base for the mild steel look.

Step Four

Change the color to white. Spray in a circular motion, at the base of the sphere. Spray a highlight on the top left side, were the light source strike the sphere first, giving the 3D impression.

Step Five

Remove the mask and check if the effect is as required, at this point the stencil could be put back and the process of darkening or lighting the sphere if required. Best to get it right first time, as this will just add to the under spray build up which must be cleaned up later.

Step Six

To remove the under spray, I use a rubber and an eraser plate. Rub off the under spray until I get a sharp edge. This step will not be required if a fixed mask is used.

**GlenTaylor** · #12 01-09-2006, 01:06 AM

last Page of sphere

**GlenTaylor** · #13 01-09-2006, 01:08 AM

The cone is the fourth shape in the mild steel range. This presentation is a simplified version, as there is no shadow or light reflection. This is all done with transparent inks. The presentation only use one mask, that is cut out of acetate. One could also use fixed mask to help with the under spray. Imagine that the light source is coming from behind you. Punching holes close to the edge of the circle would help hold it down to give a sharper edge.

Step One

Cut the acetate as required with a cutter. Place the stencil in the position required and tape it to the painting. Place a 2mm plastic support around the work piece; this is to support the straight edge as required in the presentation.

Step Two

Place the straight edge on the left side first, and then spray dark gray from the bottom to the top. Try to spray an even light tone pattern from approximately 10 cm.

Step Three

Change the color to blue and repeat step two. This will darken the gray and leave a blue base for the mild steel look.

Step Four

Place the straight edge on the right side first, and then spray dark gray from the bottom to the top. Try to spray an even light tone pattern from approximately 10 cm.

Step Five

Change the color to blue and repeat step four. This will darken the gray and leave a blue base for the mild steel look.

Step Six

Remove the straight edge. Spray a very light line from bottom to top first on the left then the right side of the cone. This will be done freehand. Try to spray an even light tone pattern from approximately 10 cm.

Step Seven

Change the color to blue and repeat step six. This will darken the gray and leave a blue base for the mild steel look

Step Eight

Change the color to white. Spray a very light thin line from bottom to top, first on the left then the right side of the cone. This is painted parallel to the centerline of the cone, only cutting the lower edge. Set two straight edges in a V shape around the centerline, this should be lifted off the painting at the bottom of the cone approximately by 2mm. This will let under spray give a softer edge.

Step Nine

Remove the mask and check if the effect is as required, at this point the stencil could be put back and the process of darkening or lighting the sphere if required. Best to get it right first time, as this will just add to the under spray build up which must be cleaned up later.

Step Ten

To remove the under spray, I use a rubber and an eraser plate. Rub off the under spray until I get a sharp edge. This step will not be required if a fixed mask is used.

**GlenTaylor** · #14 01-09-2006, 01:09 AM

page two of cone

**GlenTaylor** · #15 01-09-2006, 01:13 AM

Last page of cone.

I am going to do this for glass, chrome, wood, Pool balls, granite, marble, and foam rubber. If there are any other surface types the are important please tell me, I will add to the list.
I will change the stencil types during this process to see the effects.

Glen

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