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Old 11-28-2000, 10:36 AM
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Phyllis Franklin Phyllis Franklin is offline
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Post Build your own Easel

http://www.itg.uiuc.edu/people/grosser/easel/



Thought this might be useful to some of those that have been looking for easel plans.

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Old 11-29-2000, 08:09 AM
Prios Prios is offline
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Excellent!! I was looking for one of those for some time...

Thanks...
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Old 11-30-2000, 06:54 PM
windex windex is offline
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You know, I was just complaining about the expense of easel upgrading, and my woodworker buddy so generously suggested that I find the assembly instructions for easels I like, and he'd be happy to figure it out from there... when boom! Here's the real thing. It looks good to me, but can anyone who knows something about this wood/construction/power tool buisness verify this?
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Old 11-30-2000, 07:51 PM
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http://www.wetcanvas.com/ubb/Forum14/HTML/000034.html

You are right Sandi...it was posted before....just when I think something is new...I find out it is old news.

Guess I should have checked the archives first. This site is just so big until I think you can just about find anything in here.... now where are my socks? Whoops..nope..those were Bruin70's socks in his studio...I'll keep looking.

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Old 12-01-2000, 12:32 AM
Ben Ben is offline
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This is my first time visiting wetcanvas, and low and behold, most recent message in the Studio Tips forum is mentioning my easel design!

Anyway, if anyone has any questions about the design, feel free to post here or drop me a mail. I've been thinking about building another and have been thinking about what I might change...

ben
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Old 12-01-2000, 12:37 AM
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Phyllis Franklin Phyllis Franklin is offline
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Ben: I hope that you will join us in the chat room soon. I would very much like to set up a special chat session to talk about your design and your other special talents!

Welcome to WetCanvas!
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Old 12-01-2000, 01:40 AM
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Welcome to WC Ben. I've printed these instructions & left them in a convenient place for my husband to find . Thanks & Llis, thanks for posting it.
Cheryl
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Old 12-01-2000, 08:03 AM
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Ben: A friend of mine is going to build this easel and he makes the following suggestion.

First, when you build the support frame, jump to the section on the adjustable shelf. The peg holes are easier to drill before you assemble the frame.

Second, when you make the rear supports, instead of a jigsaw just drill side by side 3/8” holes and the use the chisel to clean up the slot.

He said for me to tell you thank you so much for the great plans!


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Old 12-01-2000, 03:19 PM
Rod Rod is offline
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Spot on Sandi, yes I did build an easel from these plans. Its excellent, would highly recommend the site.
I too drilled the peg holes before any construction. Made from pine which is not expensive. I didn't fit the lockable castors, its easy to slide around without them. Stands 7ft tall.
I also made a smaller three legged easel which is very useful.
Here are the results,as you can see I havn,t quite finished the varnishing, too keen to start using, now I wonder how I ever managed without it,
<IMG SRC="http://www.wetcanvas.com/Critiques/User/rweasel1.JPG" border=0>


<IMG SRC="http://www.wetcanvas.com/Critiques/User/rweasel2.JPG" border=0>


<IMG SRC="http://www.wetcanvas.com/Critiques/User/rweasel3.JPG" border=0>


Start building its worth the effort,
Rod

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[This message has been edited by Rod (edited December 01, 2000).]
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Old 12-01-2000, 04:12 PM
Ben Ben is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rod:
Spot on Sandi, yes I did build an easel from these plans. Its excellent, would highly recommend the site.

Wow; I've only ever seen one other picture of one someone else built. Great to see. I wonder how many more are out there Mind if I grab a copy and post on my website? (with full credit, of course)

As for the suggestions, I agree that drilling the peg holes before assembly would have been much easier. Wish I had thought of that. As for drilling out the slots instead of jigsaw--yup, that would work too. That means only power tool needed is a drill.

ben


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Old 12-01-2000, 04:31 PM
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animal animal is offline
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This is a great easel design.
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Old 12-01-2000, 11:01 PM
Rod Rod is offline
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Ben,
Feel free to use, Its a great plan. If you want a better photo I can soon take one with my digital and email to you.

Sandi,
The tray size on mine is 3 i/2 inches deep, but you can easily build with what ever width you would require. With the easel at a slight angle the tray is also tilted, One modification I will do is add a lip along the back of the tray. THen pencils or pastels could easily be stored along its full legth without fear of them rolling off the back.
You were correct again Sandi, that is my portrait I sketched, If you look closely in the first image you can just make out the grid I have drawn on my mirror with a marker pen. Very useful when sketching mirror images of yourself,
Rod


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Old 12-15-2000, 11:10 AM
Beau Beau is offline
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Thanks for the link Phyllis...Ive got a small easel but have some big projects coming up...I worked a little construction and have built a few houses and I have a few suggestions that may make the easel stronger and more durable...Mainly the top clamp system and the way its cut out.

#1.
Pine is a very soft wood and I can see after repeated tightening of the top clamp it may split or break behind along the grain...So instead of cutting it as shown figure 2 of step 6 simply use a flat board for the top clamp and fasten a metal plate of the same width to the back thats bent so the center guide is enclosed by the metal plate on 3 sides and the flat board of the top clamp on the front.

When you use the flat board this way you can oversize it...Carve it or cut it about any "Artful" way you want as long as the bottom remains flat!

#2.
On the back supports the slot can be cut into both sections or the supports lengthend so the top of a big canvas can be tilted toward the artist for easier reach...Be careful though that it doesent tip forward...a small counterweight on the back would prevent this

#3.
Back to the top clamp...A little oversize (Wider) would be nice for when you need the Mahl stick!

#4.
With two U shaped peices of metal a custom sized shelf could be slid over the small shelf or removed when not needed...You could cut holes for lipped solvent containers and have it wide enough so a retangular palette would fit!

By the way the guy that wrote the article mentioned that it would cost around 100$...I can do it for 30$ out of top grade lumber and it shouldnt cost over $60 anywhere in the US!

This is a GREAT design though!..Just enough base sticking out to use as a footrest when sitting and not get in your way when your standing!...Some of those 500$ to 800$ easels are a little unhandy that way!

Just some idea's!

If anyone doesent understand please email me and I'll explain further

Beau
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Old 12-16-2000, 11:46 PM
Ben Ben is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Beau:
Thanks for the link Phyllis...Ive got a...

#1.
Pine is a very soft wood and I can see after repeated tightening of the top clamp it may split or break behind along the grain...So instead of cutting it as shown figure 2 of step 6 simply use a flat board for the top clamp and fasten a metal plate of the same width to the back thats bent so the center guide is enclosed by the metal plate on 3 sides and the flat board of the top clamp on the front.

Great idea. I do think the top clamp is the weakest point of the design. Mainly because its the hardest piece to cut and it doesn't clamp down supertight.

I will say that my first easel, after having been clamped down for about 2 years, has never split.

I just built my second easel (from my plans) and I changed the design just a bit. Instead of chiseling out that 'T' shape from the top clamp, I cut a U shape out and then glued in a couple boards. Much easier to cut. I also angled the screwhole for the thumbscrew a bit and and that helps it to clamp down--worked much better.

I do want to point out that a lot of the reasoning behind the design was that it was for those with a minimum of skills in woodworking, and a minimum of tools. No doubt that those with a table saw and/or a full woodworking shop could build a better, more intricate easel. However, out of necessity for myself at the time, and also thinking that others would be in the same boat, I designed it so it could be built by anyone. Even if one doesn't have a power-drill and don't want to buy one, I expect most everyone could at least borrow one from someone.

The shelf attachment mechanism is an example of a piece that could be improved with better tools. One could precisely cut beveled sliding pieces to enable the shelf to raise and lower, or some other such design similar to commericially-available easels. However, I didn't (and still don't) have a table saw--thus the design I posted.

Quote:

#2.
On the back supports the slot can be cut into both sections or the supports lengthend so the top of a big canvas can be tilted toward the artist for easier reach...Be careful though that it doesent tip forward...a small counterweight on the back would prevent this

Great idea. I do think you'd need a counterweight if you wanted to advance the main support past 90 degrees. Just glue or set something on the back of the base.

Quote:

#4.
With two U shaped peices of metal a custom sized shelf could be slid over the small shelf or removed when not needed...You could cut holes for lipped solvent containers and have it wide enough so a retangular palette would fit!

I'm afraid I don't quite understand this.

Quote:

By the way the guy that wrote the article mentioned that it would cost around 100$...I can do it for 30$ out of top grade lumber and it shouldnt cost over $60 anywhere in the US!

As I said, I just built another one. I spent a total of about $75 at Lowes for everything. The lumber wasn't very expensive (about $2.75/each for the 8' 2x4's, which makes up the bulk of the lumber), but the hardware adds up. The hinges, screws, bolts, nuts, etc significantly adds to the cost.

My building was significantly speeded up by my new purchase of a compound miter saw. Had I had a table saw it would be really fast, but even just getting my cross-cuts done quickly made it possible to build in just over a day.

Quote:

This is a GREAT design though!..Just enough base sticking out to use as a footrest when sitting and not get in your way when your standing!...

Thanks!

Ben



[This message has been edited by Ben (edited December 16, 2000).]
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Old 12-17-2000, 09:05 AM
Beau Beau is offline
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Ben

Your idea of the top clamp is a great idea too!...On the "Custom Shelf" I mentioned its just a shelf suited to the user or even several shelves for different mediums and has a couple of deep u shaped clamps or brackets on the bottom to just slide it over the smaller shelf.

I'll be putting one together this coming week (if I can keep Christmas out of my way ) and I'll take a photo of the removable shelf

Beau
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