I ordered goldleaf and intense ruby gold stringers, now what

sterrekind · #1 02-28-2005, 08:24 PM

Hey there,

I ordered some beautyfull intense ruby gold stringers and some gold-leaf at Vals but have never used anything like it before. Does anyone have tips or trics on how to use it ( specially the gold leaf) and would you like to share some pictures so I can see what it looks like?

I'm not asking for a tutorial, but some pointers would be really nice.

thanks a lot, love, SUzanne

( ps Val is the quickest woman on earth, I ordered and payed some frit on a monday and it was delivered only two days later, this is REALLY fast since I live in the Netherlands)

moondanse · #2 02-28-2005, 08:43 PM

Hi, Suzanne :-)

WOW!!! You got really fast service, girl! Val is renowned for her impeccable customer service and delivery, so I'm not surprised.

I would like to know the answer to your question, too.

Sounds like a winning combo; I hope someone will chime in with some thoughts.

CorriDawn · #3 02-28-2005, 09:29 PM

I've used Gold leaf and basically, it stays more true than silver. It sits on top. Here is a picture of a heart with gold leaf on it.

I did keep one in the heat too long before and basically the gold went away and the glass just looked pitted. of course I probably just did something wrong

kwglass · #4 02-28-2005, 09:43 PM

New here...could anyone please enlighten me on 'Vals" such as phone or website?
Many thanks,
Keith

CorriDawn · #5 02-28-2005, 09:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kwglass

New here...could anyone please enlighten me on 'Vals" such as phone or website?
Many thanks,
Keith

www.valcox.com

ValorieCox · #6 02-28-2005, 10:15 PM

Very pretty Dawn! I've found similar results, the gold foil doesn't burn off as easily as the silver does, and it can be encased without too much distortion. On the flip side, when it is heated and 'burned off', it can not be brought back as silver does when you give it a flash of reduction. So best to work the gold foil a little cooler, don't be in a rush, and take your time.

One thing you might want to consider is that the gold can look a bit garish

. I was so generous in applying it on my first beads...and I loved it while I was making them, but later they looked so gaudy and colorful--I've since toned them down a bit, and haven't been using as much gold on my beads. In this case less might be more

To apply, tear off a few strips and place them on your marver ahead of time. The weight is enough that it shouldn't fly away from you. When you are ready, either roll your (nicely formed) hot bead over the strip of gold, or use tweezers (outside of the flame) to apply where you want. Burnish the gold smooth to your bead with a brass or steel tool. Then don't burn it off, and add more molten glass over in the far reaches of your flame. Or encase in some areas as burn the rest off, to leave encased areas (dots, scrolls, etc) of gold highlights.

The gold is quite durable when left on the surface, but I believe it could wear off in time, or so I've heard. Just a few of my suggestions...I'm sure there are others here who can offer even more tips. Val

ValorieCox · #7 02-28-2005, 10:30 PM

Your intense stringers can be used 'straight' or thin them out. I like to use them (because the color is so concentrated) as a color accent in twisties. These photos (1-4) show the use of some intense stringer (in this case Raku and Ruby Gold) over a rod of clear. I melted the gather, puntied-up, and made a rough twisty, which I later worked into or encased for these sample beads. The color is too concentrated to use straight (too much and it will look black), so pull thinner stringers, or mix with lighter colors to give your beads some color punch!

Another technique (last photo) that's fun, is to wrap a loose spiral of intense stringer straight to your mandrel before you add any glass. Then encase over it in clear and the color core magnifies and looks like a spiraling snake within.

kwglass · #8 03-01-2005, 12:29 AM

Corri, thanks much for the site. Thought I had the wrong site when it asked for a login.
Take care, Keith

kwglass · #9 03-01-2005, 12:36 AM

Corri, thanks much for the site. Thought I had the wrong site when it asked for a login.
Take care, Keith

sterrekind · #10 03-01-2005, 02:46 AM

Thank you so much everyone, can't wait to get my hands on the goodies wich are sitting on a plane somewhere by now

Val I love your beads ( as usual). My three-year old daughter is sitting in front of the pc all the time looking at the pictures you have on your website all the time, oohing and ahhing, she's really my kind of gall

She totaly admires the dark pink-purple-ish set you have on your website.

If anyone has more tips or ideas, please post, I love to see some eye-candy

Love, Suzanne

sterrekind · #11 03-01-2005, 02:47 AM

www.glasspoet.com

for those who want to see the whole website

Toni Lutman · #12 03-01-2005, 10:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ValorieCox

To apply, tear off a few strips and place them on your marver ahead of time. The weight is enough that it shouldn't fly away from you. When you are ready, either roll your (nicely formed) hot bead over the strip of gold, or use tweezers (outside of the flame) to apply where you want. Burnish the gold smooth to your bead with a brass or steel tool. Then don't burn it off, and add more molten glass over in the far reaches of your flame. Or encase in some areas as burn the rest off, to leave encased areas (dots, scrolls, etc) of gold highlights.

Val

Val,

I haven't used my gold leaf alot yet, but is there a reason that you're using brass or steel tools rather than graphite when working with the gold?

Toni

ValorieCox · #13 03-01-2005, 03:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ToniL

Val,

I haven't used my gold leaf alot yet, but is there a reason that you're using brass or steel tools rather than graphite when working with the gold?

Toni

Toni, I think your graphite tool should work just as well for you. I use a curved tempered steel tool, which is hard so I can burnish the foil quickly to the bead while it's hot, by running it over the rounded surface. Also because it's tempered steel, I don't worry when it's in the flame. I don't know why your graphite wouldn't work...I guess I was taught to use the brass shaper, the edge of your tweezers or a metal tool....so that's what I've always used.

Try it with the graphite and see how it works for you. Val

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