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Old 11-12-2003, 08:11 PM
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Is that purple glaze from your birthday thread the Spectrum dark purple?

It is a spectrum Glaze, but it is just "Purple" I do have the Dark Purple (its a little bluer like tanzanite and a little more opaque) and the Bright Purple (more opaque and magenta in color) The Purple is beautiful and very Amethyst in color. Those purples are EXPENSIVE but they are really nice! last time I ordered Spectrum, they told me that they no longer sell dry in one pounders...the smallest qty is 5 pounds. So I bought them wet and they work much better that way anyways. The purple always settled into rock!

Quote:
I really love the look of some of those faux ash glazes.


Yes, and Georgies has a great sample kit that you can get with little jars of all the glazes. At least a year ago they did...great inexpensive way to test! I use the Faux Ash Teal, I think its called, for beads (#9 on my chart) as well as Avacado Ice (#6)


Quote:
It sounds like you've done some experiments with over-firing low-fire glazes, how do you keep the glazes from running off the beads?


I would not have thought to, but the Duncan catalog showed the LF glazes fired to ^6, so that was good enough for me! #17-22 on my chart are all Duncan LF, as well as a few others! The colors are pretty accurate to the catalog (AMAZING!) and the glazes are incredibly reliable. Great if you want really bright colors.

WOW! My head is spinning with bead talk! I think I'm glaze drunk! It is so great to chat with others about this stuff! I mean, you can talk to potters, but it really is different dealing with beads, I think...
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Old 11-12-2003, 08:55 PM
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Ignuss-Fatuus Ignuss-Fatuus is offline
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another thing to try to get some nice funky looks is take the low fire stains and high fire them onto porcelein like cone 8 or 10
you can get some beautiful reations that are pretty much unseen currently....
karin
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Old 11-12-2003, 10:43 PM
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Heres a cone chart for good measure, if any one is wondering what the temperature equivalent is to a pyrometric cone (or^) used in ceramic firings.

Orton Cone Chart

Andi and Karin,
Now I want to make colored porcelain beads and use funky stains on them! I did but some great colored clays but they were very heavy in iron and made my hands break out Maybe tinted porcelain wouldn't do that? Andi, do you tint your own clay bodies? Any tips?
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Old 11-13-2003, 12:37 AM
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It's possible to buy colored porcelain. If you want consistency, that's probably best... that said, I tend to just tint my own. There's an article in the current issue of Clay Times about colored clay bodies. I generally choose a porcelain body (I like helios from highwater clay, beautiful grolleg body, amazingly sensual) roll out thin (very thin) slabs and allow them to dry. I then measure out a teaspoon or so of stain, mix it with water, and slake the slabs to create a colored slip.

I generally try to stir the slip once a day, pouring off the clear water that separates at the top (I just pour that off into my glaze brush water, the sediment from which is often used in glaze experiments)

Once the slip has set up and begun to be more clay like, I have a couple of methods for drying it to a workable consistency, but it's pretty much like drying out reclaim, everyone has their favorite methods.

Start with small batches and play around a bit. my next experiments, when I'm done with production for the holiday season, I'm going to play a bit with agate wear. maybe multi-color agate wear.

Toodles,

Andi.
must join husband to watch end of 2nd matrix movie... we're taking my mother-in-law tomorrow evening to see the 3rd...
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Old 11-13-2003, 09:03 AM
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All of these ceramic bead artists in one place, Oh my!

Ever since I graduated from school I've had to, more or less, stick with low fire out of necessity. Although I do have a few gallons of 'made from scratch' glazes left over from college days (pre bead times), I mainly use premixed, Duncun glazes because I was given 100s of jars for helping a 'mom and pop, paint your own pottery shop' close up their business. There are so many things I could try and do with these glazes and my stash of oxides and carbonates, but I just haven't experimented lately.

You all just kicked my butt into gear and I am going to make some more test tiles!!!!

I can't give any info on mixing the dry commercial glazes because I've never bought any, but I do recall from mixing from scratch that when you mix a test batch of 100 grams and get the results you like, you will still need to test a bigger batch of the same recipe to see if the results are the same (they usually need tweaked a little). I can see it happening with commercial dry also...

I have and do 'once- firing' every now and then and haven't had any problems, but it seems like whenever I consider doing it, there's always that one piece that has red on it that I want to get into the kiln and the fear of the burn out messing with my red usually makes me reconsider. I do like the way the glazes look on most of the peices I have once-fired. And Gaea, your work is wonderful! (thank you for signing my guestbook too!)

I would also love to try some ^5 & ^6 firings and when I rebuild my porcelain kiln, I probably will.

I have to get off of here now. The Dish network people are suppose to call sometime, about our hook up. We signed up last week and we still haven't heard from them yet!! (cable company said we can't get cable in our new house which is less then 100 feet from the old house... )

I'll check back in later, that's for sure. Thank you glass artists for letting the ceramic bead artists unite!


Melinda


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Old 11-13-2003, 09:19 AM
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Go clay, Go clay, Go clay!!

Don't have much to add, just wanted to encourage ceramists to post here, glaze is glass. We started doing some raku this summer and are doing workshops here and there. Haven't had much luck with beads as they aren't large enough to start the combustion in the reduction chamber, but will keep trying.

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Old 11-13-2003, 09:58 AM
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Andi,
Were you going to try the agateware in smaller, wearables?...or the larger stuff?? (I've never seen it in bead form..but that would be pretty cool!)


Everyone,

What about fuming??
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Old 11-13-2003, 09:58 AM
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I've been using Laguna glazes. Mixing the whole batch, other wise ECH! and even then have gotten some strange results. I don't think 1 or 5# matters so much. I think bad batches can be returned. Mixing really, REALLY well is important as well as letting newly mixed glazes sit 24hrs to fully dissolve. I've noticed that for glazing the beads and small items, their water to glaze ratio needs to be higher on the water side otherwise you lose your pattern in the glaze.


Okay, Good Morning all!
I just wanted to thank Gaea for answering my original question about Laguna Glazes. I will mix the whole batch and wait for it to dissolve. Thank you! How do you deal with settling, though? Do you ever mix a gum of some sort into the glaze. I am truly lazy with glazing sometimes. So much that I know which glazes that I can break off a hard crusty bit from the jar and mix it with water to use to glaze on a bead. SICK! My hubby, as a traditional painter, always yells at me for not doing it "right" (mixing up the whole jar of glaze) but I know the lowest amount of work required, and I simply do that.


Quote:
All of these ceramic bead artists in one place, Oh my! mwillis


Hello Melinda,
Happy to see you here! You must be busy with all of the activity at your home! Thanks for posting! Sounds like a kiln bulding party at Melinda's is in the works someday! I am jealous! It has been so long since I got to use real FIRE in a kiln...

Quote:
Don't have much to add, just wanted to encourage ceramists to post here, glaze is glass. We started doing some raku this summer and are doing workshops here and there. greg


Thank you for the encouragement, Greg! Thinking along the Glaze is Glass, lines...I just came across something online about Kate Fowle, I think, using glazes on her lampwork, for that great earthy look. I should check that out more.

As for Raku, I did some beads back in college, but I didn't really expore it too deeply. There are some artists who do great stuff with Raku beads...

http://www.columbinebeads.com/
http://www.xazbead.com/xazbeads.html

I know that RoryRaku is somewhere around here on WC...I would love to hear some input...nudge nudge?!?
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Old 11-13-2003, 10:26 AM
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K8e,

Agateware beads aren't really a new idea, http://www.scr2.com/beads/turner-k/portfol.html has some beautiful examples, it's just new for me. All this talk has gotten me excited. I think I'll go in the studio, break out the helios, and some stains, and see what I can pull together.

Raku beads:

I've had very bad luck with raku beads. there just doesn't seem to be enough thermal mass to get the reduction started. Melinda has had some pretty amazing results, though... Mel, can you give us any advice?

I'm personally thinking that when I get my lampwork torch set up I'll try torch firing some beads on "mandrels" and dropping the molten beads into coffee can reduction chambers...

Well, I'm off to the studio to play with stains... see how much trouble this thread is getting me into?

Toodles,

Andi.
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“Experience,” Essays, Second Series (1844)
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Old 11-13-2003, 12:39 PM
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WOW! Look at what you started Melanie! This just revs me up!

Quote:
You mentioned you never bisque...


I've been working with Laguna Hagi Porcelain which is ^5 and it's as Melinda says "the cream cheesy" kind, maybe a bit firmer. We had bags and bags left over from the myriad of classes taken over the years of ^10 and I decided not to let it go to waste and had some beautiful results from the ^10 Soldate 60


Also the Dark brown clay from Laguna is AMAZING!!!


Quote:
No Bisque firing! I cant even imagine...I'm such a Klutz I would break them for sure! But maybe I should try it for the production line beads!


I keep all my little green pieces in zip-lock bags ready to go and they rarely break! I highly recommend it! I fire about 900 pieces in a firing, glazed. six 16 x16 " shelves stacked with 1-4" posts.

OH MY GOSH! So much to see and learn!!!

OH and Melinda... I do the same thing with the "chunks on the side!" My husband is also the "do it right" one in the family! I just want to PLAY!!!
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Old 11-13-2003, 10:02 PM
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OH and Melinda... I do the same thing with the "chunks on the side!" Gaea


OOPS! I don't want Melinda to be named the lazy one! I take all the credit for that practice!

Quote:
Agateware beads aren't really a new idea -Andi


Chuck and I did some colored porcelain beads in college. He was really good at it actually. I'll try to find some of them and post them. He was all about doing a sort of murrine technique, and he got a cool looking eyeball done. He also did these black and white "alien baby" beads that looked like weird eggs. We would make the multicolored beads and fire them in the salt kiln. The ones that got too distorted by glaze could be tumbled in a rock tumbler to a very nice smooth finish. I think if I was to do agateware like beads, I would tumble them...they look and feel like frosted glass.

Speaking of colored clays, I have scoured the internet for info about my two favorite "old school" porcelain bead makers...Howard Newcomb, who did incredible porcelain chevrons, and Galena Rein , the queen of Pate sur Pate. All I have seen are Ornament and Bead & Button articles from many years ago. Anybody know anything?


Getting sleepy,
Thanks all for all the great brainstorming and info sharing!
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Old 11-14-2003, 01:03 AM
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Sorry!

Sorry Melinda! I meant Melanie! Maybe I've had my head in a zip-lock bag too long!

Don't mind me... I can't remember names or spell...
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Old 11-14-2003, 02:33 AM
mwillis mwillis is offline
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Well, I don't know if I would call it advice but I will tell you how I do raku beads. I raku off the top shelf of my kiln while I do regular firings on the lower shelves. I make stilts of nichrome wire and insert these into pieces of soft fire brick. I think the most beads that I have fit on one piece of brick, comfortably is 8 but you just have to test picking them up with your tongs before you ever place them in the kiln (you don't want you beads to move around, touch and fuse together while your transporting them to the can).

My Folgers coffee reduction chambers are as close to the kiln as I can get them so I don't lose heat. They are actually at my feet so all I have to do is (wearing gloves of course) raise the kiln lid with my left hand, grab a brick with the tongs in right hand, carefully lower the kiln lid, bend down, drop the brick in shredded newspaper (by now I already have the cover to the can in my left hand), drop the tongs on the floor. grab more newspaper and throw it on top of the beads and then slap on that cover and carry the can outside. Now for the next brick...
It just takes a matter of seconds really and I do think that using the fire brick helps retain the needed heat.
(Just so you know, the beads that I just 'mentally' rakued turned out beautiful!!!)

Andi, was it you that mentioned one time, about getting better raku bead results in the winter? It seems so for me too. I only got to do it 3 -4 times this summer and they weren't near as good as last winter.
Melanie, the kiln building party sounds like a blast but I have to have a 'tear the old house down' party, first :-(

Gaea, that brown clay is beautiful!

Who's going to NCECA 2004? Maybe we can all meet!!!!! I'll only be 1 1/2 hours away!

Melinda
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Old 11-14-2003, 02:38 AM
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STOP!!! you guys are getting me all excited about uncovering my pottery kilns and pulling out all my glazes to try and make clay beads. I don't have time for another medium (or going back to another medium). I hate having my kilns covered up in the corner of the basement I feel so bad for them.

I just love everyone's work and am so glad that your here on WC.

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Old 11-14-2003, 02:42 AM
mwillis mwillis is offline
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If you go to my 'sold' album you can see a couple raku beads.


http://www.PictureTrail.com/mel61844
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