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  • #990557

    There is a ‘just 6 colours’ thread running, but since members have found they really wanted more options, I am curious about your specific choices for a 12 colour palette that you could use for painting anything! That’s the smallest that is generally available so a good place to start. Please do the poll – hopefully there will be enough choices – then add your actual colours with pigment and/or brand information, and why this works for you. I have kept the options mostly general in the poll, but will do a summary of the specific colour choices some time in the future.

    Cheers, Jane

    My Website
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    #1180385

    Here’s mine, and a small palette with the colours in it.

    Buff Titanium
    Hansa Yellow Medium
    Quinacridone Gold
    Permanent Red Deep
    Quinacridone Violet
    Ultramarine
    Cerulean
    Jadeite
    Undersea Green
    Goethite
    Burnt Sienna
    Bistre (premixed Ultramarine + Burnt Sienna)

    All Daniel Smith.
    Rationale –
    Buff Titanium is a lovely granulating creamy colour – wonderful for beaches, sand, rocks moss, making pastel colours for florals or interesting effects dropped strong into a wash.
    Hansa Yellow med – I find limited use for a lemon yellow as I rarely need to mix really bright greens so a mid yellow is more useful.
    Quin gold is a great transparent mixer to create oranges if needed.
    Permanent Red Deep is not as crimson as Anthraquinoid or Permanent Alizarin so gives purples but keeps oranges from getting too neutralised.
    Quin Violet makes the other red more crimson if necessary but makes wonderful rich purples with Ultramarine.
    Ultramarine could be my only blue, great for skies, mixing etc.
    cerulean gives an opaque option. Could switch to Phthalo Blue Red shade for a transparent alternative.
    Jadeite – like Phthalo, but with more granulation and much more attractive. Great for foliage, which is about the only greens I tend to be making
    Undersea Green – a convenient dark mix of Quin Gold and Ultramarine. Saves time. Great for Aussie gum leaves.
    Goethite – granulating cross between Yellow Ochre and Raw Sienna. Great for landscapes.
    Burnt Sienna – wouldn’t want to be without it.
    Bistre – such a useful shadow and dark colour. Being pre-prepared, can be used very dark very easily. I mix it to just a slightly blue side of grey.

    Cheers, Jane

    My Website
    My Blog

    #1180327
    artdreamer1
    Default

        I generally use the following colors (Daniel Smith–sometimes use W&N but not lately):

        Indigo (Love It!), Neutral Tint, Sepia (rarely)
        Quin. Burnt Orange, Quin. Gold, Quin. Yellow (fairly new addition to Daniel Smith)–Love these three the most!!!!
        Green Gold, Undersea Green–my favorite greens…
        Perm. Alizarin Crimson, Quin. Red, Quin. Magenta, Perm. Red; the most difficult color for me personally…
        Burnt Sienna
        Moonglow (my main “purple”)–Love this color ALOT!!!; also use Diox. Purple
        Cobalt Blue, FUB, Manganese Blue
        Also use Cobalt Teal Blue and Ult. Turquoise on occasion; I’m going to start using Cobalt Teal Blue as my “cool” blue more often, I think–love Ult. Turquoise but it’s a very strong color–has to be used carefully.

        Have probably forgotten something that I use–depends on what the subject matter is; I usually try for no more than 4-6 colors in a painting–the less, the better; for me, anyways…
        P.S.–Just received the new Daniel Smith catalog; I’m SURE that there are some colors that I’d like to try. Usually, I have an over-abundance of warm colors versus cool so I have to remedy that soon.

        I try to go for the most transparent paints as possible–less risk of muddy washes; not sure WHY these particular colors seem to work the best for me…lately, NOTHING seems to be “working” though (as far as painting goes)!!
        Oh well….try, try again! :crossfingers:

        Michele

        "Don't only practice your art, but force your way into its secrets; art deserves that, for it and knowledge can raise man to the Divine."
        --Ludwig Von Beethoven

        My tumblr blog: http://artisticallyinclinedartist.tumblr.com/

        #1180370
        Hoplite
        Default

            The funny thing is, it was easier to pare down to six colors than it is to twelve. The bare basics for broadest color range or colors specific to plein air for the half dozen. From there six weren’t that hard to pick.

            Neutral Yellow: PY154 (“Winsor Yellow”). I might eventually replace this with PY 151 since that leans ever so slightly cool rather than ever so slightly warm, because I added a warm yellow I really like.
            Warm Yellow: PY153 (“New Gamboge”). This kind of pushed PO73 (Winsor Orange RS) off my more limited flyweight palette.
            Warm Red: PR188 (Scarlet Lake). Meets my lightfast standards (not below 7 on BWS, but the combined weight of other PR188 ratings MacAvoy gives is not confidence inspiring). When the tube runs out, I’ll probably try one of the alternates MacAvoy recommends.
            Quinacridone Rose: PV19. Rather than Quin Red (PR209) and Magenta (PR122), I’m giving the PV19 twins a trial run.
            Quinacridone Violet: PV19. In part because these are M. Graham and don’t dry out to a mean lump like my W&N pair mentioned just above.
            Warm Blue: PB29 (French Ultramarine Blue). Way back in college I started out with Cobalt Blue and Cerulean Blue – I found I prefer this and…
            Cool Blue (Cyan): PB15 (Winsor Blue GS). I never found Cerulean to mix as well as this.
            Cool Green: PG7 (Phthalocyanine Green). Kind of obnoxious on its own, but I never cared for the gloopy greasy nature of Viridian.
            Funky Earth Tone kinda sorta: PY129 (Rich Green Gold). A new experiment in my eternal quest to rid my palette of Hooker’s Green, which keeps making a comeback.
            Yellow Earth Tone Cheat: PO49 (Quinacridone Gold), which was listed in the warm yellows, and probably properly so. While muted, it is awfully darn bright in comparison to Raw Sienna or Yellow Ochre. Still, I love the color and am giving it a trial run. Also, I can mix this with PB29 to get Undersea Green and retain versatility.
            Orange-Red Earth Tone: PR101 (Transparent Red Oxide). Since the Quin Gold runs a little bright and orange, I’m using this as a greater step between it and Burnt Sienna. Just another experiment.
            Dark/Neutral/Earth Tone: PBr7 (Raw Umber).

            And in fact, since my flyweight travel palette actually holds 14 colors, I usually have something like Moonglow or Payne’s Gray in there also, but I’m trying not to cheat this time.

            #1180310

            I found this palette easier to choose than the six-colour one… Most of my pigments are DaVinci, but I do like M. Graham and D. Smith…

            Hansa Yellow PY97 (DaVinci) or Azo Yellow PY150 (M. Graham)
            New Gamboge PY153 (D. Smith)
            Yellow Ochre PY43 (DaVinci)
            Permanent Alizarin PV19 (DaVinci)
            Naphthol Red PR112 (M. Graham)
            Quinacridone Magenta PV19 (M. Graham)
            Perinone Orange PO43 (D. Smith)
            Ultramarine Blue PB19 (DaVinci)
            Phthalo Blue RS PB15:0 (DaVinci)
            Cerulean Blue PB36 (DaVinci)
            Burnt Sienna PBR7 (DaVinci)
            Viridian PG18 (DaVinci)

            I work with this palette in all my Classes and we can mix almost everything we need… as we study colour theory, we continue to eliminate a lot of redundancy. By that, I mean that many of the colours we’re able to mix look pretty much like their tube counterparts.

            While we don’t “paint” with white gouache, it’s very useful for certain things like highlights in eyes, misty atmosphere, etc. So, technically it could be considered a 13th pigment.

            Now… I do have some fun colours in my box of goodies like Undersea Green, Azo Green, Azo orange, Quninacridone Magenta, Quinacridone Gold… the list is endless… :) Indigo and Paynes Grey have been retired… Opera cannot be used because it’s so fugitive… Prussian Blue is just too drab for my subjects… Raw umber finds itself working for me now and again, but burnt umber has been set aside. Quinacridone Violet is SO beautiful and I have a tube of Quinacridone pink that I haven’t even tried yet!

            Experimenting with colour is so much fun…

            Char --

            CharMing Art -- "Where the spirit does not work with the hand, there is no art." Leonardo DaVinci

            #1180328
            JPQ
            Default

                if list in top uses same names what i mean these is very good palette. and actually found way get orange and purple to palette. by removing two hues what i dont like much. and cool yellow maybe replacent middle yellow depending brand. to me good palette is 15-18 colours what i think when i add strong black (something like talens van gogh black),white,turquoise. and if its 18 i also add new rede,green and blue. some special uses really need black which is black like some foods need salt which is not possible replace with spices in some uses hard tell better. and one colour what i really like is py129. actually maybe i repalce this bigger set 3rd green with it. becouse i can get with many nice colours even with red!. but limited palettes are hard to me. but some times i dream small (to me 18 is small even 24 is small) portable set portable is relative i know. currently i have over 50 colours and i luckily have few which i think i dont get never again. expect i must reduce budget what i use colours.

                ps. earlier post says ultramarine blue is pb19 its actually pb29.

                #1180329
                JPQ
                Default

                    and i student box prussian blue is totally useless and same goes set sepia replacent i based manufacturer chart i think these and set black is not good. and brand what i talk is Schmincke!. and portable set is relative thing i know.
                    and 4 colour set if any one wants know i think current is
                    yellow,warm red,cool red and ultramarine blue. i know i cannot make some kind greens with this set but to me orange and violet are so important i need two reds.

                    #1180324
                    mirizar
                    Default

                        Here are my basic 10:
                        *Warm red: naphtol red – M. Graham
                        *Cool red: quin rose – M. Graham
                        *Warm yellow – Gamboge – M. Graham
                        *Cool yellow – Azo yellow – M. Graham
                        *Warm blue – Ultramarine blue – M. Graham
                        *Cool blue – Phthalo blue – M. Graham
                        *Mid Earth brown: Burnt sienna (W&N) or Quin Burnt Orange (Da Vinci) or Quin Deep Gold (Daniel Smith)
                        *Dark: Indigo (W&N)
                        *Light earth brown: Raw sienna (W&N)
                        *Green: Hooker’s green (M. Graham)

                        ==================
                        CharM, what do you use viridian for? It’s one of my most underused colors. I have it from M. Graham and find it so pale and weak :(

                        #1180365
                        Cyntada
                        Default

                            Fun with palettes! I also had a little more difficulty choosing 12 than 6. I think it’s easier for me to be lean ‘n’ mean, as soon as there is a little more room I start thinking, “But what if I needed…. THIS color?” :D My actual everyday travel palette holds 23 single pigments in various half and full pans, although there’s more than one that hardly ever gets wet!

                            I voted for:

                            Warm Yellow – PY150. I was never happy with yellow until I discovered this. It was almost my only yellow until I discovered the next color on the list. (WN)

                            Yellow Green – PY129. Green Gold is everything Sap Green ever promised me it would be, but didn’t measure up. Nothing mixes a shimmering spring green like this stuff with a touch of Thalo blue. (WN)

                            Blue Green – PB16. Love, love, love this blue, so active when wet, such a lovely color. (Maimeri Blu)

                            Other Blue – Cerulean. Right now I have both PB35 WN and PB36 Daniel Smith. I like PB36 a lot, but think I would opt for PB35 on this fantasy palette as it’s a little brighter. (I swap between them as it is.)

                            Ultramarine Blue – PB29. I have both light and deep from MB, and prefer the lighter one. (MB)

                            Quin Rose – PV19. I have a ridiculous amount of reds on this list, which is odd because my current 23-color travel palette contains no less than 6 blues! Reds are harder to narrow down. PV19 is my go-to red and has been for a long time. If I could have only one red it would be a close call between this and PR209. (MB)

                            Quin Red – PR209. I only checked 11 choices because this was bundled on the same line as PV19! Used to hate it, but it has grown on me. I do greatly prefer M. Graham’s version, as Maimeri Blu’s rendition is gutless and has that kiddy-paint tendency to hold brushstrokes. :evil: (MG)

                            Warm Red – PY179. Perylene Maroon is one of those colors that I don’t use a lot, but when I need it, nothing else will do. It creates some credible Alizirin Crimson substitues with PR209 or PO73, and works a treat for dulling down a violent green. Been reaching for it more and more lately, so it has to be here. (WN)

                            Orange – PO73. Pyrrole Orange is not only tailor-made for Bird of Paradise plants, it’s a fine substitute for Cad Red Light to my eye. I am not a big fan of orange in general but this pigment is so nice to handle it won me over. (WN)

                            Burnt Sienna / Dull Orange – PO48. Love this color, does everything Burnt Sienna can do and more. As mentioned in another thread makes for lively limited-palette studies with PB16 or similar. I have both Daniel Smith and M. Graham, have been using the latter more recently but like the other just fine as well. (DS, MG)

                            Burnt Umber – PBr7. Love this with UMB. Unlike the other combo, it offers beautiful cool neutrals and also makes a fine limited-palette pair. When dabbed directly onto wet paper, these two mingle to make lovely, varigated rocks – neutral rocks with tantalizing hints of color – :thumbsup: (MB)

                            Mixed Gray or Black- Sodalite. Daniel Smith lists it as a blue, but it looks like a cool gray to me. (OK, a bluish gray, but still!) I love LOVE granulation and like this around for its moody qualities. Have not tried a monotone study with it, but ought to. Not likely to mix it with anything, it’s more for brooding skies and steely seas and the like. (DS)

                            This is too much fun, thank you Quinacridone Gold for getting us started. I will surely have a shopping list after reading everyone else’s remarks on their favorite paints. :music:

                            CK =)
                            I take great comfort in knowing that my genuine typos will probably be blamed on some device's autocorrect. :angel:
                            DIY art supplies, sketches, and more: cyntada.com / @cyntada
                            #1180338
                            indraneel
                            Default

                                Does a bright saturated middle orange not have much use (especially plein air)? Does Indian yellow (PO49?) make more sense? My colors are:

                                lemon yellow (PY175?)
                                permanent yellow deep (PY65?)
                                raw sienna
                                permanent orange (PO62?)
                                burnt umber
                                burnt sienna
                                light red
                                vermilion hue (PR209?)
                                rose madder hue (PV19?)
                                ultramarine
                                cobalt blue hue
                                cerulean blue hue
                                Also have a scarlet (PR188?) which does not see much use. Also a raw umber that does see some use.

                                Pigment names are best guesses.

                                #1180349
                                Mayberry
                                Default

                                    I’m not too sure about this, but here’s my first thought:

                                    ultramarine blue
                                    cerulean blue (PB35)
                                    prussian blue

                                    pyrrol or naphthol red
                                    quin rose

                                    quin gold
                                    cad yellow medium

                                    green gold
                                    chromium green oxide

                                    burnt umber
                                    burnt sienna
                                    mars black

                                    #1180311

                                    CharM, what do you use viridian for? It’s one of my most underused colors. I have it from M. Graham and find it so pale and weak

                                    Because I’ve been teaching a lot of colour theory, I have eliminated M. Graham’s sap and hookers greens from my palette since they are convenience mixtures. I’ve settled on viridian because it appears similar to phthalo green, but doesn’t stain. My Students can mix it with other colours successfully. We never use it straight from the tube.

                                    Char --

                                    CharMing Art -- "Where the spirit does not work with the hand, there is no art." Leonardo DaVinci

                                    #1180386

                                    Because I’ve been teaching a lot of colour theory, I have eliminated M. Graham’s sap and hookers greens from my palette since they are convenience mixtures. I’ve settled on viridian because it appears similar to phthalo green, but doesn’t stain. My Students can mix it with other colours successfully. We never use it straight from the tube.

                                    I think viridian is one of the colours that varies hugely between manufacturers. Many sneak in some Phthalo green (PG7) to add some oomph and then you have a staining colour again. DS viridian is pure PG18 and a pretty, granulating green, but I don’t find it strong enough to want to use it even in mixes.

                                    I use Jadeite, an expensive pigment, but gorgeous for a slightly blue-green, which neutralises to black with a crimson just like Phthalo, and Green Apatite for a granulating ‘sap’ green. They add so much in the way of granulation and hidden colours that they are valuable as convenience greens.

                                    It’s hard to beat the lovely green you can make with Ultramarine and Quinacridone gold (Undersea green) for many applications though!

                                    Cheers, Jane

                                    My Website
                                    My Blog

                                    #1180325
                                    mirizar
                                    Default

                                        Thanks for the response CharM! I still use Hooker’s green sometimes but Viridian is there like new. Only place I think it would be useful straight is for glazing a lime or something. Will try mixes and see if I can get anything useful out of it.

                                        Jane, those two greens look yummy!

                                        #1180312

                                        Michelle, here’s something for you to think about… these are manufacturers’ mixtures of Hookers and Sap greens…

                                        Hooker’s Green:
                                        Rembrandt: PG7+PY150
                                        Rowney Artists: PG7+PY3+PV19 (hooker’s #2 dark)
                                        Rowney Artists: PG7+PY153 (hooker’s #1 light)
                                        MaimeriBlue: PG7+PO49
                                        M. Graham: PG7+PY110
                                        Utrecht: PG8 (very fugitive)
                                        Daniel Smith: PG36+PO49+PY3
                                        Winsor & Newton: PG36+PY110
                                        DaVinci: PG7+PY41 (dark)
                                        DaVinci: PG7+PY42 (light)
                                        Holbein: PG36+PY83
                                        Schmincke: PG15:3+PG7+PY42
                                        Dick Blick: Hooker’s Deep – PB15:4+PY97+PY153+PBk6
                                        Dick Blick: Hooker’s Light – PB15:3+PG7+PY153+PBk6

                                        Sap Green:
                                        Rembrandt: PY150+PG7
                                        Rowney Artists: PG7+PY169+PR101
                                        MaimeriBlue: PY139+PO43+PG7
                                        M. Graham: PG7+PY110
                                        Daniel Smith: PG7+PO49
                                        Winsor & Newton: PG36+PY110
                                        DaVinci: PG7+PY42
                                        Holbein: PY17+PG8+PG36
                                        Schmincke: PY153+PG7
                                        Dick Blick: PO48+PY150+PB15:4+PG7

                                        The most common pigment in these mixes tends to be Phthalo Green (PG7) but a variety of yellows were used by all these companies. Both M. Graham and MaimeriBlue use phthalo green + quinacridone gold! Hmmmm…

                                        Char --

                                        CharMing Art -- "Where the spirit does not work with the hand, there is no art." Leonardo DaVinci

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