I’ve used a number of those. Most I’ve used are cheap. That’s why I have them. Some have warped some have not. They make a more ridged surface. I’ve also used and like plywood panels that I gesso myself. I’m really an amateur at all this being frugal is important to me. I also like the wood surface as its smooth.

The canvas board is a cardboard base with canvas glued to it. Normally they use the same gesso to glue it. They are very durable, and no they don’t warp. Only if they get wet somehow they will deform. But is not a good option for shipping. Cheap ones may not be acid free, so better buy an expensive one if you intend it to last a lifetime.
For durability the best option is always cotton canvas, and you can roll it and ship it in a tube.
Paper can be also very durable…. not as canvas, but anyway…
I would stay away from the wooden and pressed boards. The wood changes size with temperature and humidity, making the paint eventually crack or detach from the surface. Also you need to treat it correctly such that it does not get fungus or humidity inside.
Pressed boards may contain chemicals to bond the wood that may yellow, or contaminate your paints. Also they are not acid free…. And since they are heavier than paper or canvas, shipping is more expensive.

I use my canvas boards for studies when on trips and they are durable as long as you do not get them damp or wet. Store them flat, and as a precaution put a sheet of wax paper between them, not plastic. I still have dozens painted on twenty years old and they still look new.

http://www.misterart.com/canvas/canvas-boards/fredrix-canvas-boards.html

My painting “Night Window” on this acrylic forum is on canvas covered board from WalMart. It was cheap, but in the end may not be a bargain. My board have come from Rocklers, or Lowes. I can’t recommended just report what I’m doing.

I have used both Nam and China canvas panels for decades. I typically buy them in bulk, viz, student grade. The very early ones had wood “debris” between the canvas and the paper backing. Now the canvas is mounted on cardboard. What I like about the cardboard is that I can cut thru it and the canvas to “downsize” the painting. I seal the cut edges with a light coating of Elmer’s glue.
It is very humid where I live but have never had problems with warping from moisture pick-up. Only time I had a major problem was when my garage flooded and damaged the panels standing on the floor.
I have learned NOT to flat-stack my finished ptgs. As one very learned professional on the Landscape Forum has forever touted, acrylics never seem to fully cure. That is somewhat true here with the high humidity. Ergo, the panels will stick together! Meaning of course that you may need to peel paper from the positive surface of each painting.
BTW, I have had more warping problems with heavily gessoed (4 edges and both sides) Birch plywood than with these cheepo canvas panels!
Oh and one more thing – I typically paint 120-150 paintings a year. Ergo #2 – Even tho I paint over about 75% of my efforts, I would never have room for support-mounted paintings. And if you think that flat-stacked paintings stick together, wait until you try to unroll an old canvas!

If you use hardboard, I’d recommend getting a special lacquer-based primer called Kilz™, available as a spray paint or by the quart or gallon for brush/roll application. In remodeling, we use it on water damaged/mildewed surfaces that we want to repaint. It penetrates, completely seals, and has a nice dry, grippy surface that will take Gesso like a champ.

Do all six edges, and you should be impervious to moisture damage and dimensional distortions. They sell it at any good lumber yard or hardware store, (where they also sell sheets of hardboard that you can cut to any size, or have them do it for you on their panel saw).