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December 18, 2014 at 9:58 pm #992526
It seems easy and natural to make acrylics more transparent – just add some medium to them.
But I want to make acrylics that are already transparent or semi-transparent (because their pigments are this way) more opaque. Some examples of such colors are Perylene Red (PR149), Potter’s Pink (PR233), and Transparent Yellow (or Azo Condensation Yellow) (PY128). (Potter’s Pink is semi-opaque, but I would like to make it more opaque if this is possible.) Is there some medium, other than an opaque paint, that can be mixed with these colors to make them more opaque?
AJ (opainter), C&C always welcome
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:::: Painting Blog with an article now and thenDecember 19, 2014 at 4:25 am #1216682Opaque Acrylic said to be hard to make. The binder can’t carry high amount of pigments.. In oil I have Opaquer Red iron oxide, Chromium Oxide green, Mars Black, Caput-Mortuum, Titanium White, Cobalt chromite blue-green, Cadmium Yellow, Cadmium Red in high pigmented, artist’s grade form. I also can use a trick to add Aluminum flakes powder to paint. It gives high opacity to a mixtures.
December 19, 2014 at 6:50 am #1216675It seems easy and natural to make acrylics more transparent – just add some medium to them.
But I want to make acrylics that are already transparent or semi-transparent (because their pigments are this way) more opaque. Some examples of such colors are Perylene Red (PR149), Potter’s Pink (PR233), and Transparent Yellow (or Azo Condensation Yellow) (PY128). (Potter’s Pink is semi-opaque, but I would like to make it more opaque if this is possible.) Is there some medium, other than an opaque paint, that can be mixed with these colors to make them more opaque?
Hi, opainter!
The most common way to make your pigments more opaque is to add Titanium White (PW 6) to your paint. Then, cover everything as necessary and glaze with your transparent color until everything is rich and saturated.
A more sophisticated option is to paint with a color known to be opaque in acrylics that is close to your transparent color and then glaze with your transparent color. One example would be painting with opaque Yellow Iron Oxide (PY 42) and glazing with Transparent Yellow (PY 128).
That also leads me to Gigalot’s statement:
Opaque Acrylic said to be hard to make. The binder can’t carry high amount of pigments.. In oil I have Opaquer Red iron oxide, Chromium Oxide green, Mars Black, Caput-Mortuum, Titanium White, Cobalt chromite blue-green, Cadmium Yellow, Cadmium Red in high pigmented, artist’s grade form. I also can use a trick to add Aluminum flakes powder to paint. It gives high opacity to a mixtures.
Giga, it’s true that acrylics are harder to make opaque than oils. However, all the colors you have mentioned are opaque in acrylics. Those colors is that they probably disperse better in water. Since they have high solubility and their particles are really small, you can cram as much paint as you want into acrylic film.
An example of pigment that’s probably not as easily soluble in water is Cerulean Blue (PB 35). However, its variant, Cerulean Blue Chromium and the much bluer variant, Cobalt Chromite Blue (both PB 36), have increased pigment load in acrylics.
December 19, 2014 at 9:14 am #1216692Mythrill:Great tips.
--David
December 19, 2014 at 8:02 pm #1216685Hi, Mythrill!
The most common way to make your pigments more opaque is to add Titanium White (PW 6) to your paint. Then, cover everything as necessary and glaze with your transparent color until everything is rich and saturated.
A more sophisticated option is to paint with a color known to be opaque in acrylics that is close to your transparent color and then glaze with your transparent color. One example would be painting with opaque Yellow Iron Oxide (PY 42) and glazing with Transparent Yellow (PY 128).
I was thinking somewhat along the same lines, but instead of glazing with the transparent color (which is an added step), tinting with it instead. Unfortunately, there are limits to how dark one is going to be able to get the paint, considering the white that is already in it. So, I must overcome my squeamishness about glazing colors and, as the motivational coaches will tell you, “Just do it!”
I had always thought of glazing as something that was done to an entire painting, but in this case, one would apply glaze on a color-by-color basis? :confused:
AJ (opainter), C&C always welcome
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:::: Painting Blog with an article now and thenDecember 21, 2014 at 9:46 pm #1216690I believe Golden Molding paste is made of marble dust mixed into a gel medium, and might make acrylic colors more opaque. I’ve been meaning to try this myself; thanks for reminding me about this!
December 21, 2014 at 10:10 pm #1216686I believe Golden Molding paste is made of marble dust mixed into a gel medium, and might make acrylic colors more opaque. I’ve been meaning to try this myself; thanks for reminding me about this!
Thanks for the tip. (And you’re welcome for the reminder!)
Has anyone tried either of Golden’s “Molding Paste” or “Light Molding Paste”? Or any other molding or modeling paste (not just Golden products)? Would use of white gesso be as effective? What might you recommend?
AJ (opainter), C&C always welcome
:::: Helpful links for new users: User Agreement || Reference Images || C&C Suggestions || Color Theory and Mixing (color theory and color selection) || Full List of Forums
:::: Painting Blog with an article now and thenDecember 22, 2014 at 6:12 pm #1216676I had always thought of glazing as something that was done to an entire painting, but in this case, one would apply glaze on a color-by-color basis? :confused:
Hi, opainter!
Yes, that is correct. Glazing just means applying one color on the top of the another dry color. Colors mix only optically, and you can glaze a whole painting or just a small section, and as many times as you want – provided that the underlayers are stable enough.
In the case of acrylics, upper layers will always be flexible, so that’s not really an issue. If you are using oils, it’s best if the underlayer is a fast-drying paint (e.g, an umber layer). Slower-drying layers must come on the top of the other.
December 23, 2014 at 12:00 am #1216687Hi, Mythrill!
Good! Thanks for the information!
AJ (opainter), C&C always welcome
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:::: Painting Blog with an article now and thenDecember 29, 2014 at 9:08 pm #1216688Another person asked this same question over in the Acrylics forum (which might be where it more properly belongs). Oddly enough, it seems that I was one of the persons who at least attempted to answer this question! (Link to that thread.)
Just goes to show you that people can become forgetful!
By the way, Mythrill, thanks for answering this question now twice!!
AJ (opainter), C&C always welcome
:::: Helpful links for new users: User Agreement || Reference Images || C&C Suggestions || Color Theory and Mixing (color theory and color selection) || Full List of Forums
:::: Painting Blog with an article now and thenDecember 30, 2014 at 8:08 pm #1216677Another person asked this same question over in the Acrylics forum (which might be where it more properly belongs). Oddly enough, it seems that I was one of the persons who at least attempted to answer this question! ([URL=https://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1360912]Link to that thread.[/URL])
Just goes to show you that people can become forgetful!
By the way, Mythrill, thanks for answering this question now [I]twice[/I]!!
Hi, opainter!
I don’t mind answering these questions if it helps clarifying things to people.
December 31, 2014 at 12:48 am #1216689Hi, opainter!
I don’t mind answering these questions if it helps clarifying things to people.
Just give me enough time, and I’ll probably ask this question again! :clear:
Maybe by then, people will have thought up of different answers!!
AJ (opainter), C&C always welcome
:::: Helpful links for new users: User Agreement || Reference Images || C&C Suggestions || Color Theory and Mixing (color theory and color selection) || Full List of Forums
:::: Painting Blog with an article now and thenJanuary 2, 2015 at 1:25 pm #1216674I’m a big fan of glazing! One can achieve the necessary opacity with lower chroma paints, and then bring them up to the almost stained-glass brlilliance one is aiming for.
It also allows one to endlessly second-guess oneself. This can be good or bad.
From Golden Acrylics chart of their Heavy Body line:
Their 108 colors, ranked by opacity (1 to 8 scale):[INDENT][FONT=”Arial Black] 1[/FONT] (MOST OPAQUE)
[INDENT]Chromium Oxide Green Dark
Chromium Oxide Green
Yellow Oxide
Red Oxide
Violet Oxide
Raw Umber
Carbon Black
Mars Black[/INDENT][FONT=”Arial Black] 2[/FONT]
[INDENT]C.P. Cadmium Red Light *
C.P. Cadmium Red Medium *
C.P. Cadmium Red Dark *
Pyrrole Red Dark *
Light Magenta *
Medium Magenta
Medium Violet *
Light Violet *
Light Ultramarine Blue
Cobalt Blue Hue
Anthraquinone Blue
Prussian Blue Hue *
Cerulean Blue Deep
Cobalt Turquois
Teal
Light Turquois (Phthalo)
Cobalt Green
Jenkins Green
Light Green (Yellow Shade) *
Yellow Ochre
Mars Yellow
Burnt Sienna
Burnt Umber Light
Burnt Umber
Bone Black
Paynes Gray
Titan Buff
Naples Yellow Hue
Titanium White
N2 Neutral Gray
N3 Neutral Gray
N4 Neutral Gray
N5 Neutral Gray
N6 Neutral Gray
N7 Neutral Gray
N8 Neutral Gray
[/INDENT][FONT=”Arial Black] 3[/FONT]
[INDENT]Titanate Yellow
Bismuth Vanadate Yellow
C.P. Cadmium Yellow Medium *
Cadmium Yellow Medium Hue *
C.P. Cadmium Yellow Dark *
C.P. Cadmium Orange *
Pyrrole Red Light
Pyrrole Red
Cadmium Red Medium Hue *
Permanent Maroon
Permanent Violet Dark
Cobalt Violet Hue *
Dioxazine Purple *
Cobalt Blue
Cerulean Blue, Chromium
Phthalo Blue (Red Shade)
Phthalo Blue (Green Shade)
Primary Cyan
Turquois (Phthalo)
Phthalo Green (Blue Shade)
Viridian Green Hue
Phthalo Green (Yellow Shade)
Permanent Green Light *
Hookers Green Hue
Sap Green Hue
Light Green (Blue Shade) *
Raw Sienna
VanDyke Brown Hue
Graphite Gray
[/INDENT][FONT=”Arial Black] 4[/FONT]
[INDENT]C.P. Cadmium Yellow Primrose *
C.P. Cadmium Yellow Light *
Aureolin Hue *
Naphthol Red Light *
Primary Magenta
Alizarin Crimson Hue
Quinacridone Violet
Manganese Blue Hue
Green Gold *
Transparent Brown Iron Oxide
[/INDENT][FONT=”Arial Black] 5[/FONT]
[INDENT]Hansa Yellow Opaque
Quinacridone Burnt Orange
Diarylide Yellow
Vat Orange
Pyrrole Orange *
Naphthol Red Medium *
Quinacridone Crimson
Ultramarine Violet *
Azurite Hue
Terre Verte Hue
[/INDENT][FONT=”Arial Black] 6[/FONT]
[INDENT]Hansa Yellow Light *
Primary Yellow *
Quinacridone / Nickel Azo Gold
Quinacridone Red
Smalt Hue *
Ultramarine Blue *
[/INDENT][FONT=”Arial Black] 7[/FONT]
[INDENT]Hansa Yellow Medium
Nickel Azo Yellow
Indian Yellow Hue
Quinacridone Red Light
Quinacridone Magenta
Zinc White
[/INDENT][FONT=”Arial Black] 8[/FONT]
[INDENT]Transparent Pyrrole Orange *
Transparent Yellow Iron Oxide
Transparent Red Iron Oxide
[/INDENT][/INDENT]The asterisks note paints that did not get BOTH ‘lightfastness I’ AND ‘excellent’ in Permanence. Golden’s website gives the most complete data on their paints that I’ve ever seen. (Does any other maker use an eight-point scale for opacity/transparency?)
Except for the cadmiums (‘not for exterior use’) the more opaque pigments are also the most permanent – and cheapest, most being ‘earth’ tones.
"A badly made patch is still better than a well-made hole."[FONT="Book Antiqua"]--Lucie Margarite
[/B]" I am at my most serious when I'm joking." [FONT="Book Antiqua"]--The Angel Dudley,The Bishop's Wife[/CENTER][/COLOR]"Two things are infinite: Space and Human Stupidity—and I'm not sure about Space!"[FONT="Book Antiqua"]--Albert Einstein[/center][/COLOR][/B]February 14, 2018 at 7:39 am #1216694Does it matter if my white is not titanium white if I want to make transparent colours more opaque? I have a tub of white which I need to finish before buying titanium.
My paintings are shown on the following:
https://www.instagram.com/mario_knez_artist/
https://www.facebook.com/marioknezartistFebruary 14, 2018 at 8:34 am #1216678Does it matter if my white is not titanium white if I want to make transparent colours more opaque? I have a tub of white which I need to finish before buying titanium.
It changes a lot if your white is zync white or titanium white. Zync is very transparent, while titanium is rather opaque. That said, most UNAMED white tubes are titanium white.
"no no! You are doing it all wrong, in the internet we are supposed to be stubborn, inflexible and arrogant. One cannot simply be suddenly reasonable and reflexive in the internet, that breaks years of internet tradition as a medium of anger, arrogance, bigotry and self entitlement. Damm these internet newcomers being nice to to others!!!"
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