Ultimately, it’s not the name on the tube, but the color you’re chasing. I think (but am not sure) that the closest W&N Artist Oil Colour comes to cadmium red light is cadmium scarlet. Unfortunately, it’s their most expensive pigment, $US 40 at my local Michael’s (big box crafts store).

I’ve played for almost a year with cyan (really, phthalocyanine blue PB15:3), magenta and lemon yellow and white. Lately I’ve added cadmium orange hue and ultramarine. From these, I can mix nearly any color I want.

A thought: you might want to examine your bias against hues. Many of our now accepted pigments began as hues — for example, ultramarine blue PB29 is a “hue” in imitation of pulverized lapis lazuli, the true ultramarine. Only a few paint brands actually supply ochres, or raw or burnt Sienna and Umber — rather, they give you synthetic iron oxides in imitation of iron-bearing clays.

Interestingly, I tested my cadmium orange hue against W&N Artist Oil Colour (genuine) cadmium orange and Grumbacher Pre-Tested (genuine) cadmium orange. My hue has higher chroma and is more pure than the actual cads.

If nothing else, consider that the creation of synthetic pigments has burgeoned mightily in the last 30 years. The driver (no pun intended)? The automotive industry. Automotives will accept only colors that are lightfast, impervious to environmental chemicals… and as inexpensive as possible. The advances in reds, yellows, purples and greens are especially notable.

While my skill is not necessarily up to justifying a paint upgrade,

You’re kidding I hope. I have been watching your still life work. I think it is quite good. Money is always an issue but you’re good enough to feel the difference in how the paint handles. I am learning The Carder Method. By far the most valuable lesson is on mixing colors. He recommends 5 colors. Permanent Alizarin Crimson, Burnt Umber, French Ultramarine, Cadmium Yellow Light, and Titanium White. All Winsor & Newton artist colors but the Titanium White he recommends Rembrant. It helps keep the cost down and from these colors you can make almost all colors with the exception of some bright reds and greens or turquoise where you would need Cadmium Red or Winsor Blue green shade (if I’m not mistaken) or winsor green. I haven’t needed them yet. 60% FUM and 40% BU will give you black. You don’t have to go crazy buying a million different colors. You will go through more blue and white than the other colors though. What ever you do though, I hope you keep painting.:thumbsup:

Here’s a link to his supply list read the note at the bottom of the paint section. Please understand I am not trying to push his system but it does help keep the cost within reason by mixing your own colors.
http://www.thecardermethod.com/supplylist/

Hi Sarah,
i am an Aussie also and like to buy the good stuff for myself to paint with. My one indulgence ;0)

i only ever order from overseas as i find it is much cheaper (sorry, but here they cost much too much). I order from Dick Blick in the US and when i want a smaller order (mainly UK/Europe based brands such as Michael Harding, OH, and some W&N) I order from Jacksons Art in the UK. I have found that i save half the cost or more than buying them from here even with postage (or a better paint for the same price of a lesser quality one bought here- if you want to look at it that way). The good thing about both stores is that you place the order and they get back to you with the postage charges to get confirmation. So you can cancel the order if you think it is too costly. And the service is great.

I personally am not a fan of the Art Spectrum (AS) paints though i know a lot of really good artists that use them. The pigment load is not very high in a lot of colours. And i dont find the colours mix as bright or clean as the brands i use. A side by side compasison with the AS and W&N paints- there is a huge difference, and with the AS and even higher grade paints it is unbelievable almost. I think i am a little spoilt now. Having said that, i think the AS Cadmiums are not too bad for the price (particularly from online stores such as theartshop.com.au

I quite like the W&N Winsor Red (a very good synthetic pigment) as sometimes i like to steer clear of the Cadmiums myself, but yes as someone else mentioned, the Cadmium Scarlet should be good.

If you want to spoil yourself with some high grade paints, go for it, they are a true joy to paint with.

Vera :0)