Masking tape question - WetCanvas: Online Living for Artists

This topic has 13 replies, 11 voices, and was last updated 17 years, 2 months ago by staggerlee.

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February 18, 2007 at 10:45 am #986260
Polygon
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Hi all,

I’m very new to acrylics. I need to pick your brains. I’ve read many times in books that you can use masking tape to create a hard edge in acrylics painting. I have a good book out from the library that even makes it look easy, walks you through step by step.

But, whenever I have tried it I lift the surface of the paint when I lift the tape- the paint always cracks, or chips, or just lifts and looks a bit loose.

What am I doing wrong? I think it was on paper that I experimented, is that the problem? Haven’t tried too many supports yet, what do you recommend?

Also, it shows the artist confidently using a blade to cut curves in the tape and then lift the cut part off- how the heck does he do that without scratching the support? I mean, if you do it gently the tape will rip and not have a sharp perfect edge.

I’m using golden liquid paints, and am not applying thickly. My paper though would have been very smooth, can’t remember what brand.

Would appreciate any tips you have!

Comments and critiques are always welcome.
February 18, 2007 at 10:53 am #1081857
Enchanted
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Masking tapes are not all the same. Some are worse about allowing “bleeding” under the tape than others. It sometimes helps to “burnish” the edges of the tape to reduce the bleeding tendency. Burnishing is accomplished by using some sort of tool – a plastic spoon for example – to RUB down the edges.

Before removing the tape, run a good sharp razor blade or craft knife lightly along the edge of the tape to be sure the tape is separated from the paint film.

I much prefer to use a masking film rather than the tape. I have found that the self-stick shelving paper is wonderful for this purpose. I do burnish the edges. But it seems to lift off cleanly without the need for the razor cut. I prefer the clear plastic shelving paper. The advantage of using the shelving is that you can cut all sorts of shapes before peeling off the backing to expose the adhesive.
February 18, 2007 at 11:21 am #1081852
Guide
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On paper, if the paint has any moisture in it at all it would cause it to lift. Dry is the solution and it can take up to a week for acrylics to “set” and stabilize.

I use a canvas tape (a paper tape made to be used on canvas). It will work on canvas, mdf, hardboard but on paper I would be very cautious.

Have you considered blue tape which is meant to be used on delicate surfaces. I know I have seen a purple tape for fresh painted surfaces. But most of these are for walls and such. But certainly worth investigating.

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February 18, 2007 at 1:35 pm #1081855
dreamz
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A couple of points…

Use either drafters or painters tape, they have a different kind of glue than the average hardware masking tape.

after laying down the tape paint over the edge with a clear medium and allow to dry, this helps prevent the dreaded seepage.

Cutting tape while in place is a learned skill, you need a supply of very sharp blades, as soon as one starts to tug you grab another. You can practice on a laminate surface and even transfer from that surface to your “canvas”. I have a friend who does custom auto paint jobs, he makes it look eassy to cut just the tape and not mar the FRESH paint underneath but he has 20+ yrs of experience and may use 100 blades on one car

C&C welcome and encouraged
it's only paint...have fun with it
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February 18, 2007 at 1:57 pm #1081858
Polygon
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Thanks all for the advice so far, much appreciated! The painter’s tape, I guess I’d get this at a paint store (as opposed to an art supply store?)

So, if I leave it to dry a long long time it will be less likely to lift? I hadn’t guessed that, maybe I pulled the tape too fast, but the paint came up as a film (and I guess more of the problem was that it fell off the top of the tape, the stuff that was on the paper adhered there.)

Comments and critiques are always welcome.
February 18, 2007 at 2:04 pm #1081860
Tazart
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I got my blue painters tape from Home Depot – the medium trick Doc mentions really does work also check out the ‘Edges’ classroom here https://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=316765

Taz
"If I had been around when Rubens was painting, I would have been revered as a fabulous model. Kate Moss? Well, she would have been the paintbrush... " -Dawn French
February 18, 2007 at 2:09 pm #1081853
Jon
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My experience is a bit different, I see. I never let it dry as I always encountered a problem with it lifting sheets of paint. I use a clear gel medium to coat the tape after I have laid it in place. After it dries, I paint. I pull the tape before it dries and have never had a problem.
I agree with the others..all masking tape is not equal so use drafting tape or low tak painters tape.
Good luck to you!
February 18, 2007 at 6:53 pm #1081861
Dueck
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I’m with Nascent on this one – put down some acrylic medium first, to fill the gaps and prevent bleeding.

Also, if you find you are lifting paint, try rubbing the adhesive side of the masking tape on your pants or something fuzzy. It will make the tape stick less adamantly to the paint; combine this with sealing with medium like Nascent, and you have a non-bleeding, non-tearing line.

I will like you if you are blunt and objective.
February 18, 2007 at 7:39 pm #1081849
DebSpinks
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Also, when you lift the tape, pull in a direction slanting away from the painted area rather than lifting it straight up and away. That should minimize pull-ups.

Debra

Debra
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February 18, 2007 at 10:39 pm #1081856
dreamz
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I popped back in to add something but see Deb mentioned it. Keeping the tag end that you are pulling on at a sharp angle to the work will help cut down on lifting/peeling

C&C welcome and encouraged
it's only paint...have fun with it
Webshots - Images of dreamz creations
February 19, 2007 at 1:00 am #1081854
Heidi7Sue
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I do this on paper all the time, and it works fine. The critical thing, as Howard mentions, is that the paint under the tape be absolutely dry before you put the tape down. After painting over the tape, I find that it helps to remove the tape while that paint is still wet, so that the tape doesn’t bring the top layers of paint along with it. But sometimes I do several layers, allowing them to dry of course. In that case, the angle at which I remove the tape becomes more important. I have used regular masking tape with acceptable results, but my tape of choice is a low-tack painter’s tape that I got at some kind of art supply store.

Heidi
February 19, 2007 at 2:24 am #1081851
Mark Newton
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I have been using masking tape on paper with my use of Conte crayons more than acrylic. I have discovered for me, that the cheaper brands of tape are better as the glue is not as good. The good brands tend to lift the top layer of paper off if not really careful…..and even when careful, very difficult. SO, its cheap masking tape for me. Also I found that pulling it off very slowly and pulling it straight down away from the edge has helped. I have never had any problems with masking tape of any sort on gessoed hardboard using acrylics.

Mark Newton
Adelaide, Australia
February 19, 2007 at 9:20 am #1081859
Polygon
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Ah, cheap masking tape! Maybe that would help on the watercolour paper I use it on (I do watercolour a bit too). I switched to a quality brand, and it does lift the paper unless I’m reeeeealllly careful, and even then it often takes barely noticeable small patches.

Back to acrylics- I hadn’t even thought of the bottom layer of paint coming up with the tape, I never got that far! (Yikes, more danger awaits!) I should have been more specific. For me, it’s the top layer coming with the tape, the part where it covers the tape becomes a membrane attached to the rest of the paint, and it just sticks to the rest of the paint and not the tape when it’s lifted.

Now, to me it seems logical that it would, these are plastics and very tough, but then I see the step-by-steps in the books (where they do the burnishing, and the sealing mediums) where they lift the tape and have a PERFECT straight edge. But for me that paint is determined to stay with the rest of the paint on the painting, flapping loose beside what’s actually supposed to be there. So I still don’t know what I’m doing wrong exactly, although your tips are great for my next experiments. Has anyone ever had the top-layer lifting problem and then conquered it?

Thanks everyone for your contributions, it’s helping!

Comments and critiques are always welcome.
February 19, 2007 at 10:08 am #1081850
vlord
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Polygon:
3-M also makes a blue painters tape that tapes around curves! It lifts off of canvas with no problems, but I am not sure about paper.
V Lord
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