Hard Edges with Oils (detail specific) - WetCanvas: Online Living for Artists

This topic has 12 replies, 9 voices, and was last updated 5 years, 10 months ago by stapeliad Moderator, NYC.

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June 18, 2018 at 6:16 pm #457690
OzModern_Ryan
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Hello,
I have a very specific question for people with extensive experience/testing with hard-edge oil painting using tape.

I know how to get perfect hard-edges with acrylics and tape (painting over the tape with the under color)… this works great with acrylics because they dry so fast.

However, with oils… this has been my experience:
I’ve used liquin to seal the tape edge… it doesn’t peel off clean.
I’ve used clear acrylic medium… it doesn’t peel off clean either because acrylic doesn’t adhere to oil paint.

I’ve found that clear acrylic gesso works good, BUT it takes 24hr minimum to dry. That’s too long.

Any ideas?

Thanks
June 18, 2018 at 9:34 pm #643320
Dcam
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Hi Ryan:
I did quite a few hard edge paintings in college but all in acrylic. It seems there were major artists in the movement “hard edge” and they worked in oils. Darned if I know how they did it. I have the same problems as you trying it with oils. Very easy and quick with acrylics and the good old hair dryer. Someone might pop in and help us though. One thought: you might try burnishing the edges of the tape with a spoon.
Welcome to the forum.
Derek

Website: www.artderek.com
DEMONSTRATIONS:https://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1363787
https://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1343600
https://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1431363
June 18, 2018 at 10:31 pm #643326
Ellis Ammons
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not sure exactly what your asking. But if you lift the tape before it dries you can get a clean edge. I pull up and away to lift masks in one fluid motion. I use blue clean lift tape. I do this on smooth surface so the paint doesnt leak under where the tape edge cant seal when used on a ruff canvas. They make masking fluid you might get to work. Which is like liquid tape kind of. But it doesn’t really lift easy its kind of like a thick buggery substance that dries really quick. You would need the paint to dry before trying to lift it off

Check out my work in the acrylics Hall of Fame Camellia WIP
oil and acrylic paintings..
June 19, 2018 at 3:42 am #643324
Seaside Artist
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In my 30+ years experience I have used the Blue Painter’s Tape Ellis mentioned and I always burnished it as Derek mentioned. I used a credit card to burnish. I never have had any issues with the lifting of paint layers. I carefully plan when and where to put the tape and also use the most narrow tape I can get away with.

Angel
Website Makeover Coming! This is available now.
http://www.artist-bythesea.com/
June 19, 2018 at 11:12 am #643323
Humbaba
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When painting geometric shapes, I use a mahl stick, flat, and fine point brushes. Any deviations are corrected using paint in the opposite side.

The few occasions I have used tape, I correct any spillage and or screw ups with the same method describe above.
June 19, 2018 at 12:18 pm #643319
Fingers
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Why not try very delicately scraping clean the desired sharp edge while the paint is still wet, any bleeding, deviations from the desired line, etc with a sharp implement such as an exacto knife or a dentist probe/scraper- type object ?
June 19, 2018 at 12:27 pm #643325
Pinguino
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Why not try very delicately scraping clean the desired sharp edge while the paint is still wet, any bleeding, deviations from the desired line, etc with a sharp implement such as an exacto knife or a dentist probe/scraper- type object ?

That seems to require a high degree of manual dexterity, at risk of damaging the canvas.
June 19, 2018 at 2:28 pm #643322
Hamburgefions
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Hi Ryan:
I did quite a few hard edge paintings in college but all in acrylic. It seems there were major artists in the movement “hard edge” and they worked in oils. Darned if I know how they did it. I have the same problems as you trying it with oils. Very easy and quick with acrylics and the good old hair dryer. Someone might pop in and help us though. One thought: you might try burnishing the edges of the tape with a spoon.
Welcome to the forum.
Derek

I don’t frquently do this, but if I do:

I burnish the edges of the Scotch tape with a blunt pencil (or the wooden handle of a brush) and put a (chalk)paper on top as not to damage the panel or canvas.
The oilpaint I use is without added medium (certainly no mineral spirits or other medium which thins the paint). Than I thinly apply the (dry) oilpaint and spread it out very well.

Mark.
http://mvc.exto.org/
June 19, 2018 at 4:12 pm #643328
OzModern_Ryan
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Thanks everyone for the replies!

Hi Ryan:
I did quite a few hard edge paintings in college but all in acrylic. It seems there were major artists in the movement “hard edge” and they worked in oils. Darned if I know how they did it. I have the same problems as you trying it with oils. Very easy and quick with acrylics and the good old hair dryer. Someone might pop in and help us though. One thought: you might try burnishing the edges of the tape with a spoon.
Welcome to the forum.
Derek

Hi Derek, thanks.

so I believe I figured out the best method.
Use the Green Tape (not frog tape), its called Scotch 3M and its fluorescent green. It has a much higher adhesion than that Blue Painters & Frog tape crap.
Then… use Clear Acrylic Gesso to seal the edges.
Yesterday… I let it dry about 1hr then used a heat gun at about a 12-14in. distance to dry it out more. It was completely dry.
Paint over it.
Then peel your tape straight up, not to the left or right.
I peeled it off while the paint was still wet.

You can see results here:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BkLxtbSBT12/?taken-by=ozmodern_ryan

In my 30+ years experience I have used the Blue Painter’s Tape Ellis mentioned and I always burnished it as Derek mentioned. I used a credit card to burnish. I never have had any issues with the lifting of paint layers. I carefully plan when and where to put the tape and also use the most narrow tape I can get away with.

Yea… the Blue tape is fine on wood panels and flat surfaces, but it hardly even sticks to canvas. I’ve never had a clean edge with that tape on canvas without overpainting it with the under-color. I’m talking about PERFECT edges.

When painting geometric shapes, I use a mahl stick, flat, and fine point brushes. Any deviations are corrected using paint in the opposite side.

Hmm… I don’t think there is any chance my hands are that steady.

Thanks again for the responses!
June 19, 2018 at 4:16 pm #643321
Dcam
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I can see in your very dynamic style that hard edge is a must. I wonder though, if acrylic would end a lot of headaches. Also, more and more artists are under painting in acrylics and then topping with oil.

Website: www.artderek.com
DEMONSTRATIONS:https://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1363787
https://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1343600
https://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1431363
June 19, 2018 at 4:28 pm #643327
dgd
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Hi Ryan,

I have had success using a low-tack, delicate surface masking tape. as others have said, I burnish the edges and brush in such a way as to avoid forcing it under the edge of the tape. It seems to work, even when I use liquin but it can result in a ridge of paint at the edge unless the applied paint is thin.

The 3mm and 2mm-wide tape used by modellers also works but I have only used it a couple of times.

The cheap masking tape did not perform so well…

BTW, I’m writing from the UK so it is probably useless to mention the brand but for what its worth, its yellow Frogtape. About UK£7 for 50 metres.

Time flies like an arrow but fruit flies like a banana
June 19, 2018 at 4:44 pm #643329
OzModern_Ryan
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I can see in your very dynamic style that hard edge is a must. I wonder though, if acrylic would end a lot of headaches. Also, more and more artists are under painting in acrylics and then topping with oil.

Yea, I thought so too, but I absolutely hate acrylics.
horrible consistency, doesn’t spread, terrible coverage. dries too fast and ruins brushes. hate it.
June 19, 2018 at 4:47 pm #643330
OzModern_Ryan
Default
Hi Ryan,

I have had success using a low-tack, delicate surface masking tape. as others have said, I burnish the edges and brush in such a way as to avoid forcing it under the edge of the tape. It seems to work, even when I use liquin but it can result in a ridge of paint at the edge unless the applied paint is thin.

The 3mm and 2mm-wide tape used by modellers also works but I have only used it a couple of times.

The cheap masking tape did not perform so well…

BTW, I’m writing from the UK so it is probably useless to mention the brand but for what its worth, its yellow Frogtape. About UK£7 for 50 metres.

you can get a decent edge by burnishing the tape edge only.
However, you have to paint right away. If you wait longer than 1hr… the tape starts falling off. Besides… its still hit or miss on a clean edge that way.
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