Home › Forums › Explore Media › Decorative Arts, Murals, and Faux › Best material for outdoor mural that can’t be painted directly on the wall
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June 7, 2015 at 6:35 pm #993060
I just discovered this cool site! So this is my first post. I hope I do this correctly…
I am writing a grant to create historic images for my town in Connecticut. I would like to find the best material to paint on so that the murals are long-lasting and vibrant. I will have to attach whatever material I use to the walls where they will live after they’ve been painted.
I saw that someone suggested PVC sheets and I’m wondering how you would prepare that surface for the paint?
Also, I’m wondering what kind of paint is the best to use on the surface to create a permanent long-lasting mural
i’m not married to the idea of using PVC sheets, and I’m wondering if anyone has a better idea?
June 8, 2015 at 1:41 am #1226341Welcome to the forum. I can agree that a plastic sheet wouldn’t be durable enough, plastics aren’t as permanent as once thought. Your backing needs to be weatherproof depending on its exposure to the elements. Acrylic paints would be my choice.
Doug
We must leave our mark on this worldJune 11, 2015 at 10:50 am #1226346Agree with York… PVC breaks down under sunlight. Ever have a 5 gal bucket or planter crumble on you? Do a search under MDO plywood & you’ll likely find many previous discussions.
June 15, 2015 at 4:13 pm #1226348CDX or OSB plywood might be other alternatives. No plywood product will really stand up to lots of rain, but these two will resist some moisture. Add a good sealer/primer and it should hang around a long time. I’ve seen signs created on plywood that last a good 10 or more years without warping or falling apart. House paints are a good choice for out doors art because it is designed to withstand a lot of punishment, and the color choices are limitless, now. Plus, they are a lot cheaper and easier to use than tubes of any kind of paint.
R/Mike
Practice religion freely and freedom religiously.
June 18, 2015 at 5:59 pm #1226347Going along with Mike, if all surfaces are well protected the water will not get in. I use interior furniture grade ply with multiple layers rather that just a few. Stopped using MDO sign board cuz its not made well these days. I cut the panels, sand them on top & bottom and edges. Look for any gaps in the layers along the edges & fill with epoxy 2-part. Resand. Seal with 2 or 3 layers of primer. Base my painting with 2 or 3 layers of house paint, applied liberally to seal. Then do my artwork. They last… Dunno. I’ve one on my poolside wall, facing the sun, that’s 12 years old. No fades, no swelling.
June 28, 2015 at 11:47 am #1226343Hi,
I’m a sign guy and mural maker. What you want to use is an aluminum composite material. It is a solid plastic sandwiched between two sheets of aluminum. It has a polyester paint finish comes in gloss and semi gloss. You can use a 3M grey scuff pad to create tooth. I use acrylic paints mostly house paints and some golden colors for fugitive colors. Hope this helps. This comes in 3mm(1/8″) and 6mm(1/4″) thick versions.
The original maker was Alucobond but other have entered the market. some versions are used for sign and building construction. Here is a link
https://www.alcoa.com/aap/north_america/en/product_info_page.asp?info_page_id=535&cat_id=915&prod_id=1534 good luck!My acrylic gallery of past paintings more to come. https://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/topic/mike-s-gallery/
September 17, 2015 at 8:37 am #1226349Hi,
I’m a sign guy and mural maker. What you want to use is an aluminum composite material. It is a solid plastic sandwiched between two sheets of aluminum. It has a polyester paint finish comes in gloss and semi gloss. You can use a 3M grey scuff pad to create tooth. I use acrylic paints mostly house paints and some golden colors for fugitive colors. Hope this helps. This comes in 3mm(1/8″) and 6mm(1/4″) thick versions.
The original maker was Alucobond but other have entered the market. some versions are used for sign and building construction. Here is a link
[url]https://www.alcoa.com/aap/north_america/en/product_info_page.asp?info_page_id=535&cat_id=915&prod_id=1534[/url] good luck!Cool!
Practice religion freely and freedom religiously.
October 17, 2015 at 12:03 pm #1226351Greetings,
I have a question related to this topic. I am finalizing a bid on a 28×16 foot outdoor mural. I will be painting it on 1/8″ thick, 4’x8′ sheets of aluminum. I am having the surfaces sanded and deburred before I prime them. My question is … what is the best primer? I will be painting with Nova Color acrylic paints.
Thank you!November 29, 2015 at 1:12 pm #1226344Hi sorry to respond so late. After cleaning and sanding aluminum wipe clean again and then apply a self etching primer it will etch itself into the surface making a good bond. Automotive paint stores have it in shaker cans. Using a spray gun would be easier if you are setup to use one. alite coat may work if you use the spray cans, then use Zinsser bulls eye 123 acrylic primer. This is a good primer it will go over most paints and make surface acrylic compatible. I have used acrylic house paint for non fugitive colors, then switched to Golden or Nova paints for reds etc. still use multiple coats of the fugitive color with a tinted grey first to help
make color solid and fade resistant. What will you top coat it with?My acrylic gallery of past paintings more to come. https://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/topic/mike-s-gallery/
February 17, 2016 at 5:11 pm #1226352thanks for the surface prep tips.
I have a friend who owns a machine shop. He will etch the surface of the aluminum sheets for me so I am thinking that I will be able to go right to primer? Does that sound correct? It should create enough tooth for the primer to adhere to.
My big question has been “which primer do I use”. My research results have come up with using a marine primer or a “good” quality acrylic primer. I am now trying to find out which is the best good quality primer out there.
In answer to your question …
I will be using the Exterior Varnish from Nova Color to seal the piece.February 26, 2016 at 10:18 pm #1226345Use an etching primer it will self etch into the aluminum. This is usually is grey and solvent based. adding a coat of Zinsser bulls eye 123 acrylic primer will seal the etching primer. You can tint the 123 to get a neutral background. Good luck
My acrylic gallery of past paintings more to come. https://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/topic/mike-s-gallery/
April 24, 2016 at 5:23 pm #1226342MDO, CDX, or OSB plywood seems easier to cut and obtain. Which would hold up best placed outdoors? I need a low cost, readily available material. Suggestions?
Theresa M. Quirk
http://www.tquirk.com
http://www.quirkworks.comMay 14, 2016 at 12:30 pm #1226350MDO, CDX, or OSB plywood seems easier to cut and obtain. Which would hold up best placed outdoors? I need a low cost, readily available material. Suggestions?
CDX uses a water resistant adhesive, but is not designed for out doors use.
MDO and OSB should be just fine as long as a good primer is used.
Here’s an article [/URL]to help choose between plywood and OSB. Kind of long, but worth the read.
R/Mike
Practice religion freely and freedom religiously.
April 6, 2017 at 4:03 am #1226353Going along with Mike, if all surfaces are well protected the water will not get in. I use interior furniture grade ply with multiple layers rather that just a few. Stopped using MDO sign board cuz its not made well these days. I cut the panels, sand them on top & bottom and edges. Look for any gaps in the layers along the edges & fill with epoxy 2-part. Resand. Seal with 2 or 3 layers of primer. Base my painting with 2 or 3 layers of house paint, applied liberally to seal. Then do my artwork. They last… Dunno. I’ve one on my poolside wall, facing the sun, that’s 12 years old. No fades, no swelling.
Hi Steve, I was wondering what kind of paint you used for your artwork? Would that also be house paint and if so is that acrylic based or emulsion. Thanks!
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