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Old 07-03-2019, 04:47 PM
forrie forrie is offline
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Getting the curve out of masonite

I have some primed masonite that I want to use for painting. One has a slight curavture to it in the middle that I would like to get rid of. Drilling through it is not an option; could glue it down on wood supports in the back, but that will add bulk and weight. I also wonder that if/when it is frame that this process will handle that.

Anyone have a trick for this?
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Old 07-03-2019, 07:19 PM
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theBongolian theBongolian is offline
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Re: Getting the curve out of masonite

If the back isn't painted, paint it, that will sometimes solve the problem. Framing will usually take care of it also. If you have to add wood strips to the back, the additional weight is really marginal.
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Old 07-03-2019, 08:43 PM
forrie forrie is offline
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Re: Getting the curve out of masonite

Thank you for this suggestion, good idea. The back isn't painted -- I will sand it down a little first if I do paint it. The curve is just slight, but I can't stand it.

I've since moved on to painting on DIBOND, for this very reason (uniformity and smoothness).
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Old 07-03-2019, 09:13 PM
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theBongolian theBongolian is offline
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Re: Getting the curve out of masonite

if I'm looking this up correctly dibond costs TEN times + as much as hardboard (masonite).

If you get 3/16" masonite instead of 1/8" masonite, you will have virtually no warping. I use both 1/8 and 3/16 and don't have any signifcant warping.
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Old 07-11-2019, 12:42 AM
contumacious contumacious is offline
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Re: Getting the curve out of masonite

Painting gesso on the back will cause the panel to warp away from the gesso, or towards the front, so don't do it if it is warping that way already. Apply it to the side that is cupped not bowed. It will only get worse if you apply gesso to the bowed side. Also, once it fully dries any warping "adjustment" done with gesso can often go away. If it is warped away from the back, t is probably warped because the back was not sealed.

Try laying heavy stuff on top of it on a flat surface for a month.

Quote:
Originally Posted by theBongolian
if I'm looking this up correctly dibond costs TEN times + as much as hardboard (masonite).

If you get 3/16" masonite instead of 1/8" masonite, you will have virtually no warping. I use both 1/8 and 3/16 and don't have any signifcant warping.

I use both tempered hardboard and ACM panels. I don't buy Dibond brand as it is too expensive plus the metal facing is thinner than some less expensive brands.

If money were no object I would never bother with hardboard, but the cost savings is significant.

4x8 Sheet of 1/8 tempered hardboard from Lowes $8.
4x8 Sheet of 3mm Montroy M-Panel $42

Not exactly ten times the cost, but it is over 5 times more. The ACM panels are MUCH easier to cut than hardboard and are a significantly better support for all kinds of work. Another nice thing is since you don't need to use a saw to cut them there is no loss from a saw blade with the ACM. That means you can make 4 cuts at 12" wide on a 48" width, which you cannot do with hardboard since the saw blade eats up about 1/8th of an inch per cut.

Last edited by contumacious : 07-11-2019 at 12:45 AM.
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Old 08-11-2019, 03:27 PM
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HikingWithDogs HikingWithDogs is offline
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Re: Getting the curve out of masonite

I use 1" X 2" wood to cradle hardboard supports larger than about 14" or 16". I guesstimate once I figure in hardboard, wood, and canvas or muslin, it costs me about $3 or $4 US to make a 36" X 24" support.

Contumacious, where do you buy your ACM panels?
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