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Old 05-23-2019, 12:30 PM
markhwebster markhwebster is offline
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Creating custom sized picture frames from unpainted moulding

I filmed a tutorial on how to make custom frames and posted it up on youtube. It's totally free.

I cover where to buy the unpainted moulding by the foot (Home Depot), how to cut and clamp-glue-nail it for perfect corners, and how to add gesso, acrylic paint and gold leaf.

Here are the 5 videos.

Part 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jPs_1WoN5-E

Part 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fgdFUcgRfPQ

Part 3: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Tu86UjZ82I

Part 4: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VVcx7ZBDqF0

Part 5: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jBfD...ature=youtu.be

I'm an artist, not a filmmaker...but I feel like I covered the topic reasonably well. About the only thing I don't show is how to lower the running miter saw into the wood. That requires holding the wood firmly, and lowering the saw with a steady, firm hand. Not too slow, not too fast.

There are many tutorials on youtube...I watched them all. I felt I should film my own as a way to give back to the community, and fill in some gaps of knowledge.
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Old 05-23-2019, 05:44 PM
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theBongolian theBongolian is offline
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Re: Creating custom sized picture frames from unpainted moulding

Mark I commend you for making the video. Also I visited your site and saw all the hard work you've put in and info you have provided.

In your videos: a few minor points

You mention that typically an 1/8" is left around the picture - that means when you make the frame you need to make it 1/4" wider (not 1/8th) - 1/8+ 1/8

In the video you suggest using a "$20-$40" tool to transfer marks on the frame - a simple $5 carpenter's square can accomplish the same task.

Putting a square on the end of a 45-degree cut ensures the strip is square end to end but does not measure any rotational alignment is correct - in otherwords that the WIDTH of the strip is flush with the base .
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Old 05-23-2019, 07:10 PM
markhwebster markhwebster is offline
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Re: Creating custom sized picture frames from unpainted moulding

Good points all, thanks.

I'm a little unclear regarding your comment on square. The problem I had when I first started cutting frames was that my saw blade would not go straight down and make a clean 90 degree cut to the base of the moulding, as it was cutting a 45 degree angle. What that meant during assembly of the frame was that the frame would touch at the bottom, but there would be a big gap at the top (front face of frame), which I'd have to fill with putty.

I learned to be more precise as I brought the miter saw down into the wood. Then, I'd check each cut with that square, to see if the saw had come down cleanly all the way through the moulding. If you go to fast, or too slow, or the blade is dull, or don't hold the wood firmly while the saw is cutting it, you can get a 'sloppy cut', one that isn't square (90 degrees) to the bed of the saw. Sorry if I explained that badly. I'm not a wood worker or a carpenter.
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http://www.websterart.com/html/still-lifes-v4.php

Last edited by markhwebster : 05-23-2019 at 07:11 PM. Reason: spelling error
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Old 05-23-2019, 08:32 PM
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theBongolian theBongolian is offline
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Re: Creating custom sized picture frames from unpainted moulding

Quote:
Originally Posted by markhwebster
Good points all, thanks.

I'm a little unclear regarding your comment on square. The problem I had when I first started cutting frames was that my saw blade would not go straight down and make a clean 90 degree cut to the base of the moulding, as it was cutting a 45 degree angle. What that meant during assembly of the frame was that the frame would touch

Your square will measure any misalignment from the end to the front of the strip, for example if the front was raised a bit off the BASE than the end , but if the strip is not completely flush against the FENCE of the miter saw - if for example the end was touching the fence but the front was a bit away then the cut will not be a true 45 degree cut.
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Old 05-23-2019, 10:06 PM
markhwebster markhwebster is offline
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Re: Creating custom sized picture frames from unpainted moulding

Ah, I think I see what you mean. You are talking about the 45 degree cut. I've not had trouble with the 45's being off. I am using a fence extender so I can set measuring stops on long pieces of moulding, but it seems to be accurate to the degree scale on the miter saw...so far anyway. My Rockler frame clamps are so beefy I suspect I could force the corners together even if my 45's were a little off.

Regarding the opening in the back of the frame, and whether to make it 1/8 inch or 1/4 inch bigger than the painting. I do truly mean to cut the hole in the back of the frame exactly 1/8 inch bigger than the frame. However, 1/4 inch would also work, since there is leeway in the overhand of the rabbet cut. I don't actually know how much overage there is on the Michaels and Target frames. You could be right in that 1/4 inch is the norm.
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Old 05-23-2019, 10:48 PM
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theBongolian theBongolian is offline
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Re: Creating custom sized picture frames from unpainted moulding

Okay, I just measured a frame. The opening for a 16" wide painting is 15 1/2 inches in-other-words inside edge of rabbit to the inside edge of the rabbit is 15 1/2 inches. Outside (frame side) of the rabbit to the outside edge of the rabbit is 16 1/8 inches.. the 1/8th inch is to give some play for the painting.

so Mark you are correct if measuring from outside edge of rabbit to outside edge of the rabbit. I was going by memory and got upside down. I haven't made a traditional frame in a loong time - I now make only "floating" frames where the entire painting is exposed. so I apologize for the confusion (on my part).
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Old 05-23-2019, 11:28 PM
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Re: Creating custom sized picture frames from unpainted moulding

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