Home › Forums › The Learning Center › Color Theory and Mixing › Paris (Prussian) Blue IN ACRYLICS
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November 8, 2016 at 4:40 am #994552
Hello, everyone! A friend of mine was kind enough to send me a sample of Paris Blue (PB 27) powder. I got some acrylic emulsion made a dispersion to see how the paint would fare. What he labeled as Paris is to the left, and what was labeled as Ultramarine is to the right. I had to keep images more saturated than they are in real life because if I tried to remove it, color differences between each sample would also diminish.
Powders:
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[*] Paris: Pigment was Sky Blue in appearance. Required a lot of pigment to make a significant amount of paint. Highly transparent.
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[*] Ultramarine: Pigment was reddish in appearance. Required just a small amount of pigment to make a significant amount of paint.
First of all, this idea that Prussian Blue doesn’t stabilize in acrylics is horsepoop. At least if the pigment on the right really is Paris Blue. What I noticed is that what was called Ultramarine needed less pigment to make a similar amount of paint, but I’m not sure if this is how Prussian Blue works in acrylics, similar to how Cerulean Blue (PB 35) has much lower tinting strength in acrylics than in oils.
Something that surprised me a lot is how reddish both pigments look in acrylics. I also made some oil paint (not shown here) and these pigments will turn cyan in tints instead (but not in masstone). This Ultramarine Blue (PB 29) seems to match a French variation.
What bugs me about Paris Blue is that I compared it against some Prussian Blue I have and it’s significantly redder, even in oils. I tested it against Cobalt Blue (PB 28) and Cobalt Blue seems greener. Against some Prussian Blue (PB 27) from another brand, it felt significantly redder. It’s still a primary blue, but Phthalo Blue seems almost teal-ish compared against it, even a blue shade (PB 15:1). I’d say both shades of these are similar to Ultramarine in acrylics.
Do you guys have some Paris/MILORI Blue so we can draw some comparisons?
November 8, 2016 at 5:13 am #1260042I can blend my Prussian blue PB27 oil paint with white acrylic paint to compare result with acrylic ultramarine paint mixed with the same acrylic white.
But I am sure, that my Prussian Blue has Cyan blue color and Ultramarine Blue has Blue color.November 8, 2016 at 5:15 am #1260032I can blend my Prussian blue PB27 oil paint with white acrylic paint to compare result with acrylic ultramarine paint mixed with the same acrylic white.
But I am sure, that my Prussian Blue has Cyan blue color and Ultramarine Blue has Blue color.Giga, is your Prussian Blue the Antwerp variation? Or another variation?
November 8, 2016 at 5:43 am #1260043Giga, is your Prussian Blue the Antwerp variation? Or another variation?
It has “Prussian Blue” PB27 on the label. Nothing more. It is an extremely deep, transparent almost black blue oil paint, which has 100% Cerulean blue hue when mixed with White. Compared with Genuine Cerulean Blue PB35,, it has the same color. Phthalo Blue isn’t equal.
I tried to burn my Prussian Blue to see what happens. No copper derivative was found. After burning it has Iron Oxide color. It isn’t adulterated with Phthalo or Ultramarine blue pigments. I guess, modern Prussian Blue pigment is cheap enough and is available on market. No reason to premix it with other blues.But everybody knows, that Ultramarine pigment and Milori can be manufactured with several different hues.
November 8, 2016 at 7:00 am #1260033But everybody knows, that Ultramarine pigment and Milori can be manufactured with several different hues.
Yes, exactly! Even unadulterated Prussian Blue may be a little chemically impure, and this changes its color. Milori/Paris is the most pure and redder than the others. I’m not sure if it would be this reddish, though.
November 8, 2016 at 1:31 pm #1260044Add calcined soda into this acrylic paint. Or even sodium hydroxide. It must discolor Prussian Blue rapidly, this pigment is extremely sensitive for basic PH substances.
November 8, 2016 at 1:59 pm #1260034Add calcined soda into this acrylic paint. Or even sodium hydroxide. It must discolor Prussian Blue rapidly, this pigment is extremely sensitive for basic PH substances.
How sensitive, exactly? I added a few drops of ammonia stabilize the mix and make it more alkaline, but it didn’t discolor anything at all.
November 8, 2016 at 2:51 pm #1260045How sensitive, exactly? I added a few drops of ammonia stabilize the mix and make it more alkaline, but it didn’t discolor anything at all.
It is Very sensitive to Soda or NaOH. After about 30 min it will lost most of it’s blue color.
November 8, 2016 at 11:52 pm #1260026Here are some examples of Ultramarine and Prussian Blue pigment. The differences are pretty obvious. On the left is Kremer’s Ultramarine Blue Greenish Light and Ultramarine Blue Light and on the right is Kremer’s Prussian Blue and Gamblin’s Prussian blue.
Prussian blue is much darker and has a much higher tinting strength than ultramarine blue. In my opinion, neither of your swatches look like Prussian Blue to me.
"Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence."
-- Carl SaganBrian Firth
November 9, 2016 at 12:27 am #1260027I also have a tube of the old Liquitex real Prussian Blue PB27 Acrylic. Here is swatch of it on the left next to Winsor and Newton’s Finity Ultramarine blue.
"Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence."
-- Carl SaganBrian Firth
November 9, 2016 at 5:43 am #1260050I’m interested in Prussian Blue acrylic. I’ll probably have to go with Matisse Derivan to get it.
November 9, 2016 at 5:44 am #1260035Prussian blue is much darker and has a much higher tinting strength than ultramarine blue. In my opinion, neither of your swatches look like Prussian Blue to me.
Brian, what do they look like to you?
Also, some background info: I got these samples from a friend. He said the pigments he has were manufactured between late 19th century to early 20th century. He labeled the pigment sample I used to make the swatch on the left as Paris Blue.
November 9, 2016 at 6:29 am #1260036Brian, could you also show how does Kremer’s Prussian Blue behaves in acrylics? Could you make some?
November 9, 2016 at 12:45 pm #1260028Brian, what do they look like to you?
.Well, obviously it’s hard to tell from photographs as they can distort the colors so much, but to me they look like they are both ultramarine blue or possibly variations of pthalo blue.
I will mix up the dry pigments in some GAC100 tonight and post the comparisons.
"Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence."
-- Carl SaganBrian Firth
November 9, 2016 at 1:30 pm #1260037Well, obviously it’s hard to tell from photographs as they can distort the colors so much, but to me they look like they are both ultramarine blue or possibly variations of pthalo blue.
They can’t be Phthalos for three reasons:
1. These pigments are from the 1940s at most and from the 1880s at earliest. Phthalo Blue was simply not popular by that time yet.
2. Phthalo looks a lot more greenish. I placed it against Phthalo Blue Red Shade (PB 15:1), and the relative contrast made it look almost teal.
3. This pigment shows a dull, linear tint. Phthalos become very bright midway in chroma (around N3-N4 Munsell).
I think you might be right about Ultramarine (two different shades). Alternatively, this could be Cobalt Blue (PB 28), but the sample I had looked slightly greener than either of these.
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