Hi, Brian… I know how experimenting can cha-ching the cash register.

I’m thinking that you might have some old linoleum. It does get stiffer with age (kind of like me). If you have a warming tray (like they used to have at buffets) you can set it on that for a few minutes and it will make the lino much easier to cut. I’ve even stuck it in the microwave for 10 seconds though I’m sure others will say that’s probably not a great idea. In winter you can set it on a radiator; in summer sometimes just leaving it out in the sun is enough.

I’ve never used the readycut so can’t comment there.

The speedy cut takes a little practice because, as you found out, it does crumble a bit… plus it’s easy to cut too deep without wanting to. You also have to take care when you store the finished blocks if you plan to use them again later. They are pretty flexible and, when cut into over the entire surface, can break up easily.

I don’t know what kind of knives you are using but my guess is they may be a little dull. The Speedball blades can be replaced with newer ones but they can also be sharpened. Take a really fine grade of sand paper, lay it on a flat surface, and, with the blade in the Speedball holder, just draw the blade toward you. Keep it at an angle… basically going in the opposite direction and in the same position you would cut in.

Most relief printmakers are always honing their knives as they work.

Also, try cutting with an exacto blade, one of my favorites for both lino and woodcuts. It works very well just cutting at an angle rather than straight down. I often cut the lines with the exacto first and then go back and clear out the rest with a wide U-gouge.

Hope this is somewhat helpful.

Here’s a stupid question:

Could you use non-art material stuff for making “lino cuts”?

I’m thinking of stuff like scraps of plastic flooring, sheets of whatever building materials, soft solid birch or fir panels…
How about really stiff plasticine or other non-drying modelling pastes?
Rubber?
Silicone oven-mitts or cake pans?

(Even if I am far too clutzy to have any hope of even producing a print of any kind, thinking of this sort of makes me want to hunt up a sharp chisel and experiment with various household objects… )

good advice from other members. I’ll just pipe in briefly. Have you considered phoning Blick Art Materials 1-800-828-4548 and asking their product dept to send you some small samples of various block print surfaces? I tried one a few years ago made by Innovart that Blick retails called Eco-carve. Found it wasn’t as crumbly as Speedy Cut by Speedball. Have to agree that good sharp tools also will make all the difference. Speedball blades are ok but I quickly learned there were better cutting tools on the market and invested in such when I had a bit more money. I purchased a set of 5 with wood handles and these have been fantastic.
http://www.dickblick.com/products/palm-grip-carvers/
I still use my Speedball #1 blade though for fine lines but have several extra blades to replace the dull ones.

Looks like an intriguing design… Post your proof prints and let us know how things go.

John –
I believe it was Diane that posted about the heating of lino. She is absolutely right. The reason that this works is that linoleum is essentially a linseed oil and ground cork mixture. The version that most art suppliers sell is specifically made for relief printing, rather than what you may find in a flooring store. The oil will begin to “skin” after a while, much the same way it does in an oil based ink. Heating it will temporarily rejuvenate the linseed oil, and make the lino more pliable. Be prepared to begin working it soon after it comes off of the heat, for best results.

Dean