Here is what I came up with via a search here:

https://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/search.php?s=&action=showresults&searchid=78508&sortby=lastpost&sortorder=descending

Cheers.
Scott

[i]Originally posted by cobalt fingers [/i]
[B]somewhere some of the 5really informed fellers were fussing about primimg and sizing with PVA. I remember it was a good talk. I just didn’t find it in the above discussions just listed. maybe it was a little side discussion that was borne from another topic-any hints or remarks about this subject?
[/quote][/b]

I originally searched for “PVA* size”. Here is a broader search, of just “PVA*”:

[url]https://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/search.php?s=&action=showresults&searchid=78551&sortby=lastpost&sortorder=descending[/url]

[quote][b]I really like the look of raw linen amnd would like to think I can use the PVA and go if I start out lean. Is not the only trouble-starting out tooo fat and getting fatter?
And if I working alla prima would I not be fine? [/B]

My instinct tells me that you are correct, but I must admit, I’m not overly familiar with the effects of sizing materials on surfaces.

Cheers.
Scott

Tim, you can paint in oils (fat or lean) directly onto linen that has been properly sized with either RSG or an artist quality PVA. If you are going to do serious work on such a surface it may be wise to create some test swatches of examples of how you would paint on this, run them through some tests and observe them over time.

It’s great to get feedback from other artists when it comes to trying something new, the welcomed advice can help us get to our answers quicker – in the end it comes down to the many variables we uniquely bring to our own materials and methods that will lead us in the right direction or not.

best of luck

I prime my oil palette with a non porous vinyl like PVA. I do this so I can peel off the dried oil paint. A ground should be porous.

[i]Originally posted by donjusko [/i]
[B]I prime my oil palette with a non porous vinyl like PVA. I do this so I can peel off the dried oil paint. A ground should be porous. [/B]

Tim, as in this quote from donjusko and from what JeffG has stated – if you apply a coating that is meant to size a surface in a manner that seals it or diminishes the properties of a surface to the point oil paint does not adhere well to it… well you know what I’m saying here….

Drop an email off to Robet Gamblin they will tell you exactly what their testing shows and will offer you the best rate of application to provide the right amount of protection to the linen and at the same time provide the best painting surface for your oils.

Hi,
Let me say some more.
PVA could replace the rabbit skin glue, that would work.
But who would paint on the size?
Over the glue you need a white absorbent ground. Colored grounds are all right if you want but they shouldn’t be left as final paint.

Here is a fairly unknown point. You can use acrylic gesso on your oil palette also. The oil paint will peel off. I’ve done it. What this says is that it is the texture of the cloth only that holds the oil paint. What that means is don’t use non absorbent crylic gesso for oil paint.

Hi gang. Was speaking with Martha Gamblin today, and here is some info that might be helpful:

PVA (Jade) from Linco is very good quality for painters
who want to dilute full strength PVA to make their own size. Gamblin PVA is already diluted for use as a size. Scrub into canvas or linen with stiff bristle. Take about 24 hours to dry. If painting directly on PVA, apply diluted PVA to both sides. ONE COAT only both sides. PVA does not tighten the fabric like Rabbit Skin Glue so stretch as if applying acrylic ground. the definitive study on PVA in the oil painting process is from the Canadian Conservation Institute in Ottawa.

Cheers.
Scott