Home › Forums › The Learning Center › Color Theory and Mixing › Mixing Hooker’s Green
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April 13, 2013 at 2:47 am #990821
Does anyone have a recipe for mixing Hooker’s green? It’s the best ready-green I’ve ever used. I have pebeo’s, but I’m running out of it. Thanks in advance
Sara
April 13, 2013 at 3:20 pm #1185939Some of the mixes for Hooker’s Green that I found on Handprint were all a base of PG7 (Phthalo Green, blue shade) mixed with 1 of the following colors depending on brand–PY110, PY150, PY153, or PO49. Pebeo’s is made up of PG7 (Phthalo Green, blue shade), PY65 (Hanza Yellow), and PR101 (Mars Orange), but I think these exact colors will be difficult to find. Good luck.
April 14, 2013 at 12:37 pm #1185902Since Hookers Green is (always?) a mixture of more than one pigment, looking at the constituent ingredients on any tube of it will give you a good idea of the possible ways it can be mixed.
The aforementioned Phthalo Green + a transparent orange-yellow is probably the best mixing route. If you don’t have Phthalo green, then Phthalo Blue might work decently well. I would start with the yellow-orange first and add the Phthalo a little at a time because of its much higher tinting strength.
April 16, 2013 at 7:36 am #1185941Thanks, I have the Pthalo green and the orange-yellow.
Actually, pebeo’s don’t have the ingredients on the tube. I’ll have a look at their website.
Sara
April 16, 2013 at 2:30 pm #1185940Dickblick.com on line has most brands of paints. Go there and click on acrylics, then artist acrylics, then Pebeo. They will show a list of the colors and a small sample of the color. To the left of Hooker’s green is a little paddle shape, click on that. It will show you a larger sample of the paint color, and a box will say “pigment”. Click on pigment and it will give you the list of colors in that tube of paint. Good luck.
April 17, 2013 at 4:43 am #1185931My favorite is Prussian blue + Tr Yellow iron oxide. The same color can give you Phthalo blue GS + Tr yellow iron oxide. Do not use Sienna because it makes darker and less vivid green.
Phthalo green + Transparent yellow oxide is also interesting dark green color and it can be very effective foliage green. Avoid opaque cadmium yellow and Hansas, Tr Yellow oxide is what you needApril 17, 2013 at 5:12 am #1185932Since Hookers Green is (always?) a mixture of more than one pigment
Nitrozo Green, PG8 is monopigmented Hooker`s Green. It`s lightfastness lays in hansa-naphthol range and it is more lightfast in oil. Many people ignore this beautiful pigment. I don`t know why. Other synthetic pigments are often less lightfast, but people widely use them.
Maimeri Oleo HD has pure PG8 in one of their greens. And some other manufacturers produce it.April 18, 2013 at 5:25 pm #1185928The original Hooker’s Green was a mix of Prussian blue and gamboge. So Gigalot’s recipe with the transparent yellow oxide would work well, as would Prussian blue and new gamboge.
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My art materials blog: http://sunsikell.wordpress.comMay 27, 2013 at 2:58 am #1185903Nitrozo Green, PG8 is monopigmented Hooker`s Green. It`s lightfastness lays in hansa-naphthol range and it is more lightfast in oil. Many people ignore this beautiful pigment. I don`t know why. Other synthetic pigments are often less lightfast, but people widely use them.
Maimeri Oleo HD has pure PG8 in one of their greens. And some other manufacturers produce it.I was surprised to find Amsterdam Standard acrylics ‘Sap Green’ is not a mix using Phthalo Green (which is inexepensive), but PG8. Click on ‘pigment info’ :
http://www.dickblick.com/items/00643-7093/#PG8
If this pigment is nontoxic I might give it a try.
May 27, 2013 at 12:52 pm #1185930I was surprised to find Amsterdam Standard acrylics ‘Sap Green’ is not a mix using Phthalo Green (which is inexepensive), but PG8. Click on ‘pigment info’ :
[url]http://www.dickblick.com/items/00643-7093/#PG8[/url]
If this pigment is nontoxic I might give it a try.
Chemically it is green Naphtol which contains Iron ion in molecular structure. Organic-metal complex of iron 3+
January 21, 2018 at 11:47 am #1185929Hookers Green….. in Watercolour I mix Holbein Sap and Holbein Viridian to get Hookers.
January 21, 2018 at 2:05 pm #1185904This is a revival of an old thread, but Giga: a few years ago I did buy that Amsterdam Standard Sap Green which is PG8 – and it’s a wonderful color :thumbsup: Its color could also be called Hookers Green.
In acrylics it has become my main single-pigment green, having largely replaced the evil PG7 or slightly less evil PG36. PG8 has similarly dark masstone, but not so artificial-looking and overall much friendlier to use. Now Phthalo is only used in the few places if/where necessary.
January 21, 2018 at 3:06 pm #1185942How does it do in tints? I love this color, but I resisted buying the pigment dispersion because it is rated only fair in a tint:
http://www.guerrapaint.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=145_101_107_121&products_id=359
‘Course, maybe I could just not use it that way.
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https://www.facebook.com/haroldrothartistJanuary 21, 2018 at 3:26 pm #1185907This is a revival of an old thread, but Giga: a few years ago I did buy that Amsterdam Standard Sap Green which is PG8 – and it’s a wonderful color :thumbsup: Its color could also be called Hookers Green.
In acrylics it has become my main single-pigment green, having largely replaced the evil PG7 or slightly less evil PG36. PG8 has similarly dark masstone, but not so artificial-looking and overall much friendlier to use. Now Phthalo is only used in the few places if/where necessary.
The problem with Nitroso Green (PG 8) is that it has terrible lightfastness. You shouldn’t trust it at all. According to the Guerra page linked here, it only gets a 5-6 BWS in masstone, and an abysmal 2 in light tints.
January 22, 2018 at 2:00 pm #1185933It isn’t “terrible” in lightfastness. It has the same lightfastness as PY74, PY3, PR112, PY83 e.t.c. In masstone it performs even better than regular naphthols or hansas. A guy, who tried to demonize this color just forgot about half of organic pigment collection that have similar lightfastness. Handprint recommended Phthalo instead, because in watercolor phthalo has better lightfastness and it is pure green. But oil paint isn’t a watercolor. PG8 in oil is a very brilliant color, many artists said that it is best green pigment from all green pigment line. Very deep in masstone like alizarin crimson, it gives outstanding gorgeous forest colors! And it has BWS-6 not BWS-5. It performs better than 5-6 BWS PY1. It will always beat hansas and diarylides.
Do not trust watercolor advice in oil. I said that many times and will repeat if somebody can’t understand: oil paint and watercolor paint are different things. -
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