I paint solvent-free usually by virtue of painting impasto straight from the tube. I don’t have much experience painting in thin layers though. I would try different brands, preferably those without thickeners or fillers, as they tend to be oilier than say Winton.

You may need to add linseed, walnut, or poppy oil to achieve your desired effect. Depending on the pigment, paints usually start to setup within 24-48 hours (not dry though). Adding oils may extend this time. I’ve noticed that across brands, earth colors, coppers, iron oxides, and cobalts dry really quickly while carbon blacks, titanium white, and cadmium colors dry slowly.

I find M Graham to be excellent paint for glazing procedures, other paints of a similar consistency are Sennelier and Rembrandt. Getting a thin application of paint can be done in a couple of ways, brushing it out or scrubbing it in are one option. Another is piling out the surface so the paint glides around easily. Either option requires the use of the tiniest touch of color on the bristles and working it out with the brush. Smooth surfaces work well for glazing, the more rough the surface the harder it can be to get paint to spread evenly as paint tries to pool into the weave or texture of the surface. Walnut oil seems much more slippery to me than linseed oil. Glazing tends to dry based in the speed of the pigment, it can vary by the color. Bokaba’s findings on drying speed of colors fairly matches my own; also, several organic pigments can be slow driers (IME, Hansa and Phthalo tend to be slow drying to name a couple).

Glazing tends to darken a painting so be sure the underpainting is lighter in values by a significant amount than the finished work is planned to be.

I would also caution that the layer be fairly dry before you apply the next. I have torn up the bottom layer by not waiting long enough.