Home › Forums › Explore Media › Oil Painting › The Technical Forum › Glazing with Liquin is killing my brushes! Help needed…
- This topic has 32 replies, 22 voices, and was last updated 8 years, 10 months ago by Don Ketchek.
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September 24, 2014 at 5:07 pm #992270
What’s the best way to get heavy medium from brushes? Even after I clean them with turpenoid followed by soap and water, they’ll still become hard once they dry. Even when They seem to be fully cleaned. Any recommendations?
September 24, 2014 at 6:08 pm #1211754I would try oiling them as a last step–in a non-drying oil such as mineral oil/baby oil.
September 24, 2014 at 7:20 pm #1211733What’s the best way to get heavy medium from brushes? Even after I clean them with turpenoid followed by soap and water, they’ll still become hard once they dry. Even when They seem to be fully cleaned. Any recommendations?
clean with turpentine not turpenoid. turp is stronger. noid is milder and better for use in painting
"it's alright to be judgmental,,,,,,,,if you have taste"...MILT
September 24, 2014 at 7:47 pm #1211736Well, soap and water truly is quite effective; however the following precautions need to be observed regarding this “blanket statement”.
First, soap (real, bona-fide “soap”) is only effective when used with soft, or artificially softened water. Real soap will actually curdle and become lumpy when used with hard water. Since it is the suds that causes the bristles to become clean real soap is rather ineffective in hard water.
For use with hard water, detergent is necessary. There many of those on the market, such as most liquid dishwashing detergents, and even some shampoos. Most of these purporting to be “soaps”, are truly detergent, because nobody wants to wash their hair in material that causes such gunk to be created, rather than cleaning their hair.
Anyway, I’d recommend that you use whichever of these is most appropriate for you, and simply wash your brush in it again, and again, and again, etc., etc. until you think it is perfectly clean……then wash it 3 more times.:D
Most painters who claim they can’t clean their brushes with soap and water either aren’t using the proper “soap”, as I mentioned, or merely are not scrubbing the bristles enough number of times.
wfmartin. My Blog "Creative Realism"...
https://williamfmartin.blogspot.comSeptember 24, 2014 at 8:20 pm #1211751I use Master’s Brush Soap – the soap that is actually made to clean and preserve expensive oil painting brushes – and I just started using Liquin. I did notice that the brushes need to be washed as soon as I am done with painting, and a little more thoroughly. However, I have no problem getting them completely clean with Master’s Brush Soap (thank you, NancyMP! :heart:), without using turps or any other solvents at all first. Just warmish water and Master’s… takes 5 minutes to clean up. :thumbsup:
September 25, 2014 at 12:41 am #1211735Why are you glazing with a “heavy medium”?
Forcing the waveform to collapse for two decades...
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Hilliard Gallery, Kansas City, "Small Works", December 2019September 25, 2014 at 10:37 am #1211737September 25, 2014 at 11:25 am #1211763You could try Dawn dishwashing liquid soap. The people who clean ducks and other wildlife after an oil spill use it to get the oil off the critters.
When life hands you lemons, add some tequila, a sprinkle of salt and call me!September 25, 2014 at 11:32 am #1211753+1 on the masters brush cleaner. I have one of those small jars with a wire mesh in the bottom of it filled with OMS that almost immediately gets 95% of the paint/medium out of my brushes, and then warm water and the masters brush cleaner to finish it off. I leave some of the brush cleaner to dry on the brushes, and they are maintaining their shape extremely well. The whole process takes 5-10 minutes for half a dozen brushes. I use Gamblin’s Neo Megilp alkyd medium when painting, and I’ve also used M. Grahams alkyd painting medium, never an issue when cleaning using this method.
Note: I must say the jar with the wire mesh in the bottom of it made a remarkable difference in how effective the OMS were. Just plain OMS in a jar never quite cut it.
September 25, 2014 at 11:37 am #1211748What’s the best way to get heavy medium from brushes? Even after I clean them with turpenoid followed by soap and water, they’ll still become hard once they dry. Even when They seem to be fully cleaned. Any recommendations?
Dried Alkyd is hardly removable. Try acetone or nitrocellulose solvents.
To prevent alkyd hardening between brush fibers, after using liquin, clean brush into sunflower oil first. To remove residue Alkyd from it. And then, you can use this “Turpenoid” for final brush cleaning.
September 25, 2014 at 12:40 pm #1211739AnonymousLiquin is fully soluble in OMS (turpenoid) only!
Other more exotic soaps or more powerful solvents are not required to clean up from Liquin.
Something else is going on like maybe you are waiting too long before cleaning them off and they have started to set up or partially solidify. The open time will be variable by a number of conditions, yours may be fairly short. So I would just keep them clean them more frequently.
The same thing will happen when any oil paint or oil medium that is left residualy in your brushes.Even when They seem to be fully cleaned.
If the brushes were clean then they would not harden up.
They may seem to be clean when they are actually not so. There may be material still left down near the ferrule, etc.September 25, 2014 at 12:44 pm #1211742Just a little tip: Here is an unusual idea set forth by a WC member I can’t recall the person.
It works beautifully on all my brushes. Leave them overnight in pure “Murphy’s Oil Soap” and rinse the next day…..Wow!.Website: www.artderek.com
DEMONSTRATIONS:https://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1363787
https://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1343600
https://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1431363September 25, 2014 at 5:51 pm #1211740AnonymousI have used liquin and it cleaned up just fine with OMS, but when I tried to look up this info to verify it from Winsor Newton, I see that they have changed their website and I can’t find this info anywhere. If there is any problem with the OMS you are using then just step it up a notch to regular mineral spirits. Of course following that with soap and water would not hurt a thing either.
But if you want to store your brushes in a non drying oil such as someone mentioned, do it after the mineral spirits, then if you store in something like mineral oil, you can wash that out before reuse.September 25, 2014 at 6:13 pm #1211741I’m not sure what’s going on here either, although I don’t use alkyds and haven’t had any experience with it.
Maybe it is setting up in the brush before you clean them as Sid suggested.
If you’re re-using your solvent then all I can suggest is to do a final rinse in clean solvent before washing.Ron
www.RonaldFrancis.comSeptember 25, 2014 at 6:22 pm #1211734ummmmm..has anybody asked what his brand of brushes is? maybe it’s a nail polish brush
"it's alright to be judgmental,,,,,,,,if you have taste"...MILT
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