Home › Forums › The Learning Center › Color Theory and Mixing › how get naples yellow mixture ??
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December 28, 2011 at 9:04 am #989283
Hi folks
i need helpi want to make this color in oil because i cant find it in my country
the color is
indigo
naples yellow light
naples yellow deep
olive greenwhat mixture can make this colors
i search in the internet for the receipt
but i cant find the answer
please if you can help me in this case.
best regardsSadiq
December 28, 2011 at 11:49 am #1153701Hi Sadiq, as mentioned in the starting tips thread when asking a question of this type it’s a good idea to tell us your palette. So if you have any similar mixing questions in future please list which paints you have available.
None of the paint names you mention would be just a single colour so please note that any suggestions will only be approximate and may not match what you’re looking for. Starting with Indigo, this is a very blackish blue and something of the right sort can be mixed fairly easily; if you have Prussian Blue that mixed with any black would work. Alternatively, French Ultramarine plus some Burnt Umber or Phthalo Blue plus Venetian Red are other options.
Naples Yellow paints vary a great deal, from dull orange-yellow to a light yellow in colour; some indication of the variety is shown by the picture in this thread. The duller orange type is probably best made starting with Yellow Ochre or a similar yellow earth with a little red or red earth, possibly with a little added white; the yellower types from a mix of white and yellow or white and Yellow Ochre, with a dot of black for some versions. Sometimes Naples Yellow Light paints are just the Naples Yellow from the same range with some white added.
Olive Green is a very vague colour concept so any of these might give you the right sort of colour: Yellow Ochre + black; Yellow Ochre + Prussian Blue; Cadmium Yellow + Black; Cadmium Yellow + French Ultramarine.
…
Something to bear in mind is that each paint in your palette is not an end in itself, what matters really is the colours you mix from them. So none of these colours should be thought of as essential or necessary.
Einion
Do you know if your colour is off in hue, value, chroma... or all three?
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December 28, 2011 at 12:45 pm #1153704OK
and:)
thank you very much
Einion that was helpfulJanuary 8, 2012 at 3:50 pm #1153707You could try purchasing from abroad via internet – but I’ve found shipping and customs expensive when doing that.
January 10, 2012 at 3:28 am #1153705I have a tube 40 ml Shanghai Siic Maries Naples Yellow (hue) written on the tube : PR108, PY35, PW6.
I guess, we can find it everywhere in every country as it is `Made in China` product. It has a bit waxy consistency and not highly pigmented but good enough to use. Ok for me.February 15, 2012 at 6:07 am #1153703Talens paints use: PW4/PY154/PBr24
and Schmincke uses different combinations of pigments depending which oil paint series is use: one use PBr 24 for deep shade
another one use PW 6,PW 4,PO 20,PY 53 for red shade,and light shade PY53,PBr 24.(this range dark shade uses same what first deep shade uses) and last series (cheapest)
PY53,PY42 for light shade
and PBr24 and Py42 for Deep shade.
to me maybe first schmincke series look best i dont see never
real thing at least i dont know it but somehow i feel thjs way based
words what some one used description of them i think.
saddly at least here paint with Pbr24 is not common.February 16, 2012 at 12:16 am #1153699Hi
PBr24 + White
PBr24 + PY53 + white
For best results white = Lead white.
(I use the real Nap. Yellows from M.Harding or make my own paints from
pigments PY41)
lyFebruary 16, 2012 at 7:22 am #1153706You must be very careful – Lead white and Genuine Naples yellow are ~100 times more toxic pigments in comparison with Cadmium Yellow or, even Genuine Vermilion.
It is better not to use at home, but studio only because your work closes, brushes , oil and thinners contacted with Lead or Naples became toxic.February 16, 2012 at 8:41 am #1153700You must be very careful – Lead white and Genuine Naples yellow are ~100 times more toxic pigments in comparison with Cadmium Yellow or, even Genuine Vermilion.
It is better not to use at home, but studio only because your work closes, brushes , oil and thinners contacted with Lead or Naples became toxic.Hi
I do.
(mask & gloves etc)
lyFebruary 16, 2012 at 8:43 am #1153702While caution is entirely appropriate when using paints that containing lead and certain other heavy metals you can quite safely use them at home, if you follow good studio-safety practices.
Handling the dry pigment powders is a different kettle of fish entirely, and I agree that this should really only be undertaken in a dedicated studio environment where certain pigments are concerned.
Einion
Do you know if your colour is off in hue, value, chroma... or all three?
Colour Theory & Mixing forum WetCanvas Glossary Search Tips Advanced Search Acrylics forum Acrylics - Information Kiosk
February 16, 2012 at 9:27 am #1153708Thanks for sharing this.
April 4, 2012 at 12:00 am #1153698Hi
PBr24 + White
PBr24 + PY53 + white
For best results white = Lead white.
(I use the real Nap. Yellows from M.Harding or make my own paints from
pigments PY41)
lyYes, the PBr 24 is very good at approximating Naples Yellow. By itself it is very close to a Naples yellow deep. With a little white it is very close to Naples Yellow. The working properties are very close as well, and although other mixes may look similar in a pile, they can perform very differently.
A very nice paint to consider in the PBr 24 is the Blick Artist colors “Light Yellow Ocher” http://www.dickblick.com/items/01595-4833/#colorpigments
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