Graphite Transfer Paper

[MatchstickMan]

I'm a big fan of the grid system of re-scaling a photo, but the downside is that you have to be very sure that the grid-work will not be apparent on the finished item

I am considering doing my grid copy onto a blank sheet, using any number of colours and crossings-out etc, and when the outline is good, then I would use a transfer paper to copy it onto it's final destination

I'm concerned that the transfer paper will make a mess, and that it might be better to use it upside-down, so that the initial tracing would lead to a graphite deposit on the underside of the original outline

Would it then be possible to remove the graphite sheet, leaving a pristine surface underneath, and then trace over the outlines for a second time, thus leaving a clean outline, ready for finishing, on the actual support?

[Pat Isaac]

I tried graphite transfer just once and it was a mess! plus the ops mixed with the graphite to make mud. If I have to transfer something now I do the drawing on tracing paper and then cover the lines on the back with soft pastel(a color that will show up). I then go over my drawing with an op pencil so that I don't lose the drawing.
I'm not quite sure what you mean by upside down. It does sound like it might work.

pat

[halthepainter]

Matchstickman, I'm also a gridder.

I don't think you mean upsidedown but creating a mirror image.

You make a mirror image when you do block printing.

Like Pat, I also use soft pastels to put an image on my canvas etc. I usually use a white or light color because I'm usually painting on a darker toned surface. I have also used oil pastels for this task but prefer the soft pastel.

On large simple subjects where a precission drawing is not required but all I need to do is just to locate my objects and have a reasonable size and shape, I have turned my scaled master into a stencil and stencilled a broken outline of my subjects onto my canvas with acrylic paint.

Your question has made me ponder the idea. I wonder if I did a reverse image drawning (like my block printing) on my gridded paper and covered it with oil pastels just using the local color of each object, then I could tape it to my canvas and transfer that image to my canvas, masonite etc by stroking firmly with my paper stump.

I like the idea, I'm going to have to try it. It just might work if I used a softer oil pastel such as Senneliers.

Pat can I patent this process???

Thank you for the question Matchstickman.

[Pat Isaac]

I guess I'm still confused.....my process is just like transfer paper only it isn't graphite. I only use this if I think I am going to erase the drawing a lot as it would mar the board surface too much. This way I can erase to my hearts content and then when I'm ready transfer it to the board.

Pat

[halthepainter]

Pat, I'm basically like you. If I'm working out details, I'll work them out on another sheet of paper and transfer to my board or canvas. I just have a couple different ways of doing it and I think I'll experiment with that last method I mentioned.

Basically it would be similar to doing a monoprint and then applying the oil pastels final surface.

[stee71]

I grid up direct onto my support, I don't draw the grid though, instead I use elastic bands stretched over the support to form the grid. Its not as exact as a carefully drawn and measured grid would be, but it serves its purpose surprisingly well and it means no tracing necessary ....yep I am that lazy haha

If you keep knocking the bands as you draw a strip of masking tape along the 4 edges keeps the grid in place until you're finished, then even if you move the bands they spring back.

[alangraham]

Hey all. I've been using saral graphite transfer paper since I began using Pastelbord. I'll sketch out my image on plain art paper, cut it out, and transfer the image to the board. Saves time because you don't have to re-draw stuff.

Why not sketch on the board you ask? Well, if you use pencil, it's difficult to erase and make changes. If you have a light hand, you may get away with it, but I'm heavy handed when it comes to drawing with pencils. The graphite leaves just enough of an imprint that it won't cause too much issue when you apply the ops. Plus, a kneaded eraser will remove most dark lines.

[halthepainter]

Steve, your solution is quite interesting.

[MatchstickMan]

Thanks for the replies, all.

My idea of using the graphite sheet 'upside-down' is a way of getting graphite onto the reverse of the original image, as an alternative to rubbing the reverse with soft graphite, prior to rubbing the original image onto the desired surface - it seems to me that doing it that way would reduce the chances of making a mess on the intended support

But I'm pleased that there is not an overwhelming chorus of opposition to the whole idea of using transfer sheets - I have been given a sheet of the stuff, and I reckon I'm going to give it a try

[CandAlArt]

Originally Posted by MatchstickMan

Thanks for the replies, all.

My idea of using the graphite sheet 'upside-down' is a way of getting graphite onto the reverse of the original image, as an alternative to rubbing the reverse with soft graphite, prior to rubbing the original image onto the desired surface - it seems to me that doing it that way would reduce the chances of making a mess on the intended support

OH I get it--very brilliant. Seems like I heard that heavy pencil graphite can float to the top of the finished OP over time??? Am I imagining that anyone? Steve's idea is great- and if your work is too big for rubber bands you can secure strings along the grid lines with removeable tape at the edges or over to the backside. Just work around the actual string. Brilliant Steve.