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January 1, 2013 at 7:55 am #990447
Hi All
We are going to use this thread as the place where you register your participation in the WWWTP (the World Wide Watercolor Testing Program!!!). All that is necessary for this thread is to report to us what colors you will be testing so we can get an overall idea of the range of our test and I can start prompting people and asking for more samples from manufacturers that we are missing.
So if you are going to do the watercolor lightfast testing please post here:
1. your geographical location
2. the direction your window is facing
3. the manufacturer, the manufacturer’s paint name, and the color index name for that paint
4. the month/year that you set out your test sheetSo for a specific manufacturer you could enter something like;
Winsor and Newton:
Prussian Blue (PB 27), Cobalt blue (PB 28), Alizarin Crimson (PR 83), and Sap Green (PG 36 & PY 110)If you want you can also include an image of your test page or as Tred has done you could provide an image of your test page up in your window. However images are not required, just the information on what you are testing.
Please refer to the Preparing Watercolor Lightfast Testing Pages if you need more information or to review the process.
Monthly Rolling Registration
To encourage as much participation as possible the WWWTP is going to take in registrations on a monthly basis over 2013. So if you have just heard about the project and want to participate, prepare your test sheet and put it out in the window at the start of the next month. Our first major report will be after 4 months (early May) but with rolling registration we won’t get really complete results until the end of the year.So if you aren’t ready to put out your test sample this week but can get around to it by February then you can put out your test sheet at the beginning of any month and register your test paints.
Bill
"The object isn't to make art, it's to be in that wonderful state which makes art inevitable." (Robert Henri)
January 1, 2013 at 5:58 pm #1177011WWWTP – Registration for John (Tred) Softly
Location – Brisbane, Australia 27° 33′ 10″S – 152° 56′ 08″E
South facing window. Test started – 0900 – 1st January 2013
Sennelier – Yellow Lake (PY150)
Holbein – Aureolin (PY3/42)
Rowney – Aureolin – (PY40)
Holbein – Naples Yellow (PY 37/42)
Sennelier – French Vermilion (PR242)
W&N – Rose Madder Genuine (NR9)
Holbein – Rose Madder (PR83)
W&N – Potters Pink (PR233)
Art Spectrum – Cobalt Violet ((PV14)
W&N – Cobalt Violet ((PV14)
W&N – Permanent Mauve (PV16)
Schmincke – Delft Blue (PB60)
Rembrandt – Viridian (PG18)
Art Spectrum – Viridian (PG18)
Holbein – Viridian (PG18)
W&N Permanent Alizarin Crimson (NA/PR206)"When I see a jumble; I paint just that" - John Yardley
January 1, 2013 at 11:03 pm #1177018Thanks Tred, good start!
People, you do not need to be as thorough as Tred with latitude and longitude, city, state/province/, country is enough.
Bill
"The object isn't to make art, it's to be in that wonderful state which makes art inevitable." (Robert Henri)
January 1, 2013 at 11:20 pm #1177019Bill Atkinson: Quesnel, British Columbia, Canada (just above the famous 59- 40 or fight line.
started 2 Jan 2013
Winsor & Newton
Winsor Yellow (PY 154), Quin Gold (PR 206, PY 19), Winsor Transparent Yellow (PY 150), Golden Ocre (PY 42), Raw Sienna (PR 106), Burnt Sienna (PR 101), Alizarin Crimson (PR 83), Cerulean Blue (PB 35), French Ultramarine Blue (PB 29), Cobalt blue (PB 28), Prussian Blue (PB 27), Permanent Sap Green (PG 36, PY 110), Burnt Umber (PBr 7 PR 101 PY 42), Winsor Red (PR 254)Daniel Smith
Quin Coral (PR 209), Aureolin (PY 40), Permanent Alizarin Crimson (PV 19 PR 149), Quin Pink (PV 42), Quin Burnt Orange (PO 48), Cobalt Violet (PV 49)"The object isn't to make art, it's to be in that wonderful state which makes art inevitable." (Robert Henri)
January 2, 2013 at 9:37 am #1177020Hi Sandra
No this isn’t the right spot but we will get PainterBear to move it for us so you don’t need to worry. Results go into the “Reports” thread that is one of the stickies at the top, here: https://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1298431
Great to know what hasn’t faded at all, BUT what has faded, that is just as important to know so let us know about those results up in the reports thread and then probably another quick post in the Lightfast Discussion thread since people won’t automatically check on the sticky.
Thanks for your results, many questions come to mind, like how many W&N cotman paints did you test?
"The object isn't to make art, it's to be in that wonderful state which makes art inevitable." (Robert Henri)
January 2, 2013 at 10:03 am #1176999I have just the 2 Cotmans, both of which have lasted the 11 mos. I’ll post the results of my faders in the results thread. Happily there aren’t many to mention.
I’ll try and move my above results to the proper thread.
Update, got my reply shifted over, if someone could kindly delete my post #5 in this thread. Much thanks.
Sandra
January 2, 2013 at 10:09 am #1177021Thanks Sandra, nice to have early results.
Bill"The object isn't to make art, it's to be in that wonderful state which makes art inevitable." (Robert Henri)
January 2, 2013 at 11:42 pm #1176980Oh my gosh, Bill… I have more than 60 tubes of paint!
Charlene McGill, Chatham-Kent, Ontario, Canada.
South facing window. Test Start Date: January 3, 2013.
DV = DaVinci
MG = M. Graham
HWC = Holbein
WN = Winsor & Newton
DS = Daniel Smith
PT = Primatek (DS)DV Rose Dore (PV19; PR188)
MG Napthol Red (PR112)
DV Quinacridone Red (PR209)
WN Winsor Red (PR254)
DV Permanent Alizarin Crimson (PV19)
DS Rhodonite Genuine (PT)
DS Quinacridone Magenta (PV202)
DS Quinacridone Violet (PV19)
DS Perylene Maroon (PR179)
DS Perylene Red (PR178)
DS Quinacridone Pink (PV42)
HWC Opera (PR122; BV10)
WN Opera Rose (PR122)
WN Brown Madder (PR206)
WN Caput Mortuum Violet (PR101)
DV Napthol Red (PR170)
DS Deep Scarlett (PR178)
DV Venetian Red (PR101)MG Azo Green (PY129)
HWC Greenish Yellow (PY117)
WN Green Gold (PY129)
DS Undersea Green (PB29; PO49)
MG Sap Green (PG7; PY110)
DV Sap Green (PG7; PY42)
MG Viridian (PG18)
DV Phthalo Green YS (PG36)
DV Phthalo Green (PG7)
MG Hooker’s Green (PG7; PY110)
DV Hooker’s Green (PG7; PY42)
WN Perylene Green (PBk31)
DS Natural Amozonite Genuine (PT)MG Azo Yellow (Aureolin)(PY151)
DV Hansa Yellow Light (Lemon)(PY3)
DS Quinacridone Gold (PO49)
MG Gamboge (PY151; PO62)
DV Gamboge Hue (PY3; PY42)
DV Yellow Ochre (PY43)
DV Raw Sienna Deep (PY42)
DS Raw Sienna (PBr7)
DS Buff Titanium (PW6:1)
MG Azo Orange (PO62)
DS Perinone Orange (PO43)
DS Quinacridone Sienna (PO49)DV Burnt Sienna (PBr7)
MG Burnt Sienna (PBr7)
DV Burnt Umber (PBr7)
DV Raw Umber (PBr7)
DS Quinacridone Burnt Orange (PO48)
DV Sepia (PBk6; Pbr7)DV Ultramarine Blue (PB29)
DV Phthalo Blue (PB15:0)
DV Cobalt Blue (PB28)
DV Ultramarine Blue GS (PB29)
DS Manganese Blue Hue (PB15)
DV Cerulean Blue (PB15; PW6)
MG Cerulean Blue (PB36)
HWC Cobalt Turquoise Light (PB28)
DS Blue Apatite Genuine (PT)
WN Indanthrene Blue (PB60)
DV Prussian Blue (PB27)
DV Indigo (PB27; PV19)
MG Payne’s Gray (PBk9; PB29)
MG Dioxazine Purple (PV37)I was planning to test my Blockx pure Manganese Blue, but felt that it wasn’t relevant to this exercise since we can’t buy it anymore.
Char --
CharMing Art -- "Where the spirit does not work with the hand, there is no art." Leonardo DaVinci
January 3, 2013 at 12:38 am #1177012Char,
If your test strips are 1×3″ then you must have big windows. I hope you have north facing windows for light!
Cheers
Tred"When I see a jumble; I paint just that" - John Yardley
January 3, 2013 at 7:53 am #1177022Char you don’t HAVE to test all of them just because you’ve got them!!! However please do it helps to cover a lot of the bases, on a personal level if you are still using the the Blockx manganese blue then it would be good information for you and you know artists those tubes of paint can last for decades!!!
Thanks.
Bill"The object isn't to make art, it's to be in that wonderful state which makes art inevitable." (Robert Henri)
January 3, 2013 at 8:30 am #1176981John, I didn’t *get* your login name until recently…
Bill, I felt that testing everything would be a good example for my Students to follow. I plan to involve them in this process. When we use words like “fugitive”, they sometimes have difficulty envisioning what we mean. I don’t have original Alizarin Crimson anymore, but it would sure be a great example. That’s why I placed the Opera on my chart. I know that it’s going to fade.
I used Curry’s store brand paper. It’s really Saunders Waterford 140# cp. The pieces measure 9×11.5″, so I was able to rule three cells across. Rather than placing my text to the right of each cell, I ruled a 1/2″ section above each row.
If you’d like a photo, I can take one and post it. I wasn’t worried about snapping any photos until we checked our sheets at 4 months.
I’ll include the Blockx manganese on my Blue Sheet, Bill. I guess because I also have manganese hue, it’ll be interesting to see which one is more lightfast.
Char --
CharMing Art -- "Where the spirit does not work with the hand, there is no art." Leonardo DaVinci
January 3, 2013 at 9:13 am #1176979If you’d like a photo, I can take one and post it. I wasn’t worried about snapping any photos until we checked our sheets at 4 months.
Char,
Please do post a photo of your sheets. I think it would be helpful for people to see some examples of how people are laying out their test swatches.It will also be a beginning spot to gauge against as the months go by.
Sylvia
January 3, 2013 at 12:01 pm #1176982Okey dokey… I think the colours are reasonably true. In my defense for having so much paint, the duplicates, i.e. Napthol red or Burnt Sienna, are the result of what’s supplied at the Centre where I teach and what I have on my personal palette.
I added the Manganese Blue this morning. It granulates SO beautifully. Ultramarine Blue and Ultramarine Blue Green Shade photograph like identical samples. The Green Shade was shipped in error from Curry’s, but we used it anyway at the Centre.
How did I get this many tubes of green? I’ve removed the Sap Green from my basic palette at the Centre and replaced it with Viridian. My Students have no other tube greens.
Too many reds? Interesting note: The Rose Dore was a substitute when we couldn’t get DaVinci Napthol from Curry’s. The DaVinci Napthol isn’t anywhere near as staining and saturated as the M. Graham. Wow, eh?
Yellows and earths… In real life, DaVinci’s Gamboge looks much yellower than M. Graham’s which seems to have a deeper red bias. It doesn’t photograph that way, though.
It took some amount of time to do this. It was certainly worthwhile (and just a little shocking!). And, if I were to do it again, I’d more carefully organize my cells so that the Pigment Numbers were in a more logical order. Now… let the fading begin!
Char --
CharMing Art -- "Where the spirit does not work with the hand, there is no art." Leonardo DaVinci
January 3, 2013 at 11:12 pm #1177023Char this is fabulous and from some of our discussions it may be important to have the photos at the start because the ink is likely to fade unless you make sure that it is light fast ink or such.
Anyway you needn’t apologize for the number of paints since it is GREAT to have so many under the light fast test.
Again thanks.
Bill"The object isn't to make art, it's to be in that wonderful state which makes art inevitable." (Robert Henri)
January 4, 2013 at 8:12 am #1177024Hi All
The weekend is coming so why not make this a Watercolor Lightfast Weekend, lay out your swatches, do a bit of painting, say maximum 2 hours unless you are like Char and want to test everything. Just test your current palette and get those sheets in the window over the weekend that would be quick enough to consider having started in january.
Bill"The object isn't to make art, it's to be in that wonderful state which makes art inevitable." (Robert Henri)
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