Home Forums The Learning Center Studio Tips and Framing Using CA Super Glue as a "Clamp" for Wood, Urethane and Epoxy Glues

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  • #475705
    contumacious
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        I needed to add some wood standoffs to a finished painting on a tempered hardboard panel and did not want to risk damaging the front of the painting by laying all kinds of weight on the standoff boards or clamping which would have been even more risky. I remembered seeing this video where I first learned about the technique of using CA Glue (Cyanoacrylate Glue aka Super Glue, Krazy Glue etc.) to essentially “clamp” or hold the piece tightly in place while the wood glue or some other type of significantly stronger, but slower curing glue sets up.

        Fast forward to the 3:00 time stamp to see the wood glue and the CA glue combined technique.

        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UCm3GfKmVC8

        He uses just CA glue for making the sled runners. I knew from experience that CA glue alone is not strong enough for what I needed. It worked perfectly and I have since used it for many other applications including patching a hole in a huge cradled wood panel with a piece of 1/8″ birch plywood, that would have been nearly impossible to do well with any other gluing method since I could not use screws or put weights on the back and could not reach the area with clamps.

        Here is another quick demo. Neither of these guys spread the glue out before putting the pieces together. You will get a significantly stronger bond if you spread it out evenly from edge to edge, leaving some open spots in the middle for the CA glue. I did the wood glue first, leaving small nickel sized circles of exposed wood where I wanted to put the CA Glue so the water from the wood glue didn’t mix in with the CA Glue. Align the parts, then apply pressure to bond the CA Glue. Make sure the pieces don’t move when you apply pressure.

        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=che6U4lm1cE

        This technique is not new, but it is new to me and has been a real life saver more than once since I learned about it.

        Some tips and comments from what I learned in the short time I have been using the method.

          [*]Works with any CA glue and any slower drying glue such as Wood Glue, Urethane Glue and Epoxy.
          [*]The more downward pressure you can apply on the areas with the CA Glue the tighter the fit will be.
          [*]Use the accelerator on the CA glue only if you can align the parts very quickly. If critical alignment is needed, don’t use the accelerator but be sure to apply downward pressure for at least 30 seconds if not more before you let go.
          [*]If you are using Urethane glue, use a bit more CA Glue than with wood glue or epoxy since Urethane glue expands as it cures and it can push the pieces apart or make them shift.
          [*]You don’t need more CA glue than was shown in the demos. Remember all it needs to do is to hold the parts tightly together until the wood or other glue cures fully.
          [*]Wipe off any glue that oozes out if you want a better looking glue job. Follow the instructions for your glue to clean up exposed glue such as a wet rage on wood glue.
          [*]Watch for glue coming out of the joint and clean it up immediately if you want clean looking joint.
          [*]Check back every so often to clean up any additional oozing, particularly with the Urethane glues.
          [*]Be sure to let it cure the recommended time before applying stress to the glued on piece.

        I did some testing and the glue joint, once the non CA glue is cured, is just as strong as if it had been heavily clamped in place while curing, but you are done in minutes rather than struggling with clamps trying to align everything just right.

        It will work with just about any materials as long as the slow curing glue you select is compatible with both materials. I use Titebond III for wood to wood or wood to hardboard or MDF, Epoxy or Urethane for everything else. Imagine trying to glue a pair of 8 foot long aluminum L channel stiffening braces to the back of a full 4×8 foot ACM panel. You would need dozens of clamps and a large work area to accommodate the clamps. With this method, you can do the entire job by yourself on the floor with a protective blanket under the panel, in a matter of a few minutes without the need for a single clamp.

        Use for:

          [*]Gluing on standoffs for a floating on the wall type display for unframed ACM panels. You can attach your hanging wires to the standoffs.
          [*]Adding aluminum channel bracing to very large as in full 4×8 sheet ACM panels that are either hung frameless or in a frame.
          [*]Attaching wood spacers to install uncradled panels in Floater Frames
          [*]Repairs from the back on hardboard, plywood or MDF panels
          [*]Attaching cradle boards to panels without the need for any clamps, nails, staples or clamping jigs
          [*]Any number of non art related projects as well.
        #855130
        Dcam
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            Contu: I kind of figured out this process a couple of years ago. I use it all the time and your thread is a valuable one.
            This is also a great method for adding decorative molding to a basic picture frame without worrying about nail holes.
            I actually use dots of the slow dry glue first, then quickly add dots of the CA glue between (alternating).
            Use in a well ventilated area: that CA is nasty stuff.

            #855136
            bongo
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                I watch woodworking tutorials on YouTube just about EVERYDAY. CA glue, a nail pin gun (and a roll or painter’s tape) can eliminate a lot of clamping.

                ANother thing I discovered is that to make a good frame you really need good true lumber – you will struggle with most construction grade lumber sold at Home Depot and Lowes. So unless you have a planner and joiner you have to use better grade wood. That can easily double the cost of making a frame.

                A “solution” I’ve found is to use a good grade of 3/4″ plywood. With plywood you get perfectly flat and true wood to work with. The cost is the same or LESS than using construction grade wood. I like (actually prefer) the look of laminated wood on the sides (or top). It gives the frame a different look while still within the canon of the modern float frame aesthetic.

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                STUDIOBONGO

                #855134
                contumacious
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                    Derek

                    I wonder who first thought of the concept of CA and wood glue simultaneously? I have seen some posts dating back at least 8 years. Pretty cool that you figured it out on your own.

                    theBongolian

                    I am very fond of the look of multiply plywood. The exposed edges are particularly attractive when clear coated.

                    Unfortunately none of the wood suppliers near me stock any really nice multiply plywood like maple faced ApplePly. I need some right now for several of my projects but can’t get it other than by truck delivery at ridiculously high cost. The “Baltic Birch” the closest wood wholesaler offers is Chinese junk, no pun intended. The face plys are too thin and they flake off like crazy if you try to shape them at all.

                    #855131
                    Dcam
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                        You can get some nice hobby wood in the depot and lowes Select pine, poplar and oak. Just laminate the strips (glue, clamp, trim) and you’ll get that multi-ply look and without sawing those huge plywood boards.

                        #855135
                        contumacious
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                            Apparently Lowe’s is listed as a vendor for ApplePly. I will have to call the contractor desk. Thanks for the tip about the higher quality plywood at the Depot/ Lowe’s. I need several 4×8 sheets in 1/8th, 1/4 and 1/2 for some projects I am working, so the smaller hobby stuff isn’t going to cut it – pun intended. I am leaning towards their hardwood core (baltic birch) with maple faces.

                            #855137
                            bongo
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                                A few weeks back a friend who is moving out of state asked me to take his entertainment center to Good Will for him. I loaded it up in my van and drove to goodwill where they informed me they no longer take entertainment centers because they’re drowning in them and nobody wants them. So I took it to the dump and as I was about to toss it, it broke apart and I realized that besides the pressboard there was some decent plywood. ANd that reminded me, you can get some great wood from old furniture at good will. They have giant tables, desks, as well as end tables, night stands etc. – often made from hardwood that you can salvage.

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                                STUDIOBONGO

                                #855132
                                Dcam
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                                    There are some internet articles on making frames from wood flooring (an extremely stable product). I’m going to look into it.
                                    Very often the wood flooring face is lovely.

                                    #855138
                                    bongo
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                                        There are some internet articles on making frames from wood flooring (an extremely stable product). I’m going to look into it.
                                        Very often the wood flooring face is lovely.

                                        Last time I was in Lowes I looked at their wood flooring. They use to have some made out of real wood, and some made out of bamboo, but all I saw was the vinal covered pressboard.

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                                        STUDIOBONGO

                                        #855133
                                        Dcam
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                                            #855139
                                            bongo
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                                                Yow! There’s one not five minutes from my house. It’s tucked behind Central Market where I do a lot of shopping – never went in there.

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                                                STUDIOBONGO

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