I have Michael Harding’s Genuine Naples Yellow Light PY41 and the dry pigment from Natural pigment. I would describe them both as very similar to a cadmium yellow light with about 30% lead white added to lighten the intensity of the yellow. It covers well but has a weak tinting strength and overall handles much like a lead white does. If a more subdued yellow with low tinting strength sounds like it would be useful in your portraits then it could be right up your alley. It is quite expensive though, which is the only real draw back.

I have Michael Harding’s Genuine Naples Yellow Light PY41 and the dry pigment from Natural pigment. I would describe them both as very similar to a cadmium yellow light with about 30% lead white added to lighten the intensity of the yellow. It covers well but has a weak tinting strength and overall handles much like a lead white does. If a more subdued yellow with low tinting strength sounds like it would be useful in your portraits then it could be right up your alley. It is quite expensive though, which is the only real draw back.

Brian, why don’t you use Nickel Titanium Yellow (PY 53) and Chrome Titanate (PBr 24)? They lack the glow of lead, but otherwise are very hard to tell apart from the real deal – and they’re also cheaper and non-toxic. For instance, consider this painting sample from Ambrosius the Elder, from 1621, which almost certainly has Naples Yellow Light (PY 41):

Now see Gamblin’s Nickel Titanate Yellow (PY 53). Aside from being flat (since we’re seeing the pure, flat color), and the original painting having darkened (probably due to some reaction to atmosphere pollutants) it almost looks like we’re seeing the same color!

I have both Harding’s Genuine Napples Yelloy (Deep & Light).

Are they expensive? Yes!
Are they toxic? Yes!

But my personal opinion is that they are really beutifull colors and irreplaceable. PY53 is not PY41 is PY53, PY35 is not PY41 is PY35……but PY41 is PY41

If i may suggest, buy a tube use it and if it makes you happy continue use it, and believe me if you dont use it by yourself no matter what each one says you will never know if its ok or not for you.

But my personal opinion is that they are really beutifull colors and irreplaceable. PY53 is not PY41 is PY53, PY35 is not PY41 is PY35……but PY41 is PY41

Chrome Titanate (PBr 24) and Titanate Yellow (PY 53) are not Naples Yellow (PY 41), but they’re really close – so close that Michael Harding, which sells the genuine stuff, also sells Chrome Titanate as a hue. See for yourself: http://www.michaelharding.co.uk/colours.php

Edit: I think it’s also a good idea to include the dickblick swatches. Here is Michael Harding’s Genuine Naples Yellow Dark (PY 41):

Here is their Naples Yellow (PBr 24, Chrome Titanate):

Mythrill You are 100% right, They are really very very close But they are not identical and they have not the same properties.

All i want to say is that if yoy want to try a color just try it. make your own experiments and if you like the results fine… otherwise use the color until the tube is empty and dont buy it again. It only costs some extra money and time.

Harding sells napples yellow (PBr24 Chrome Antimony Tintate) for the artists who

1. they dont want to pay a lot of money (60$ the genuine napples yellow 14.98$ the napples yellow)
2. they dont like toxic colors.

Mix color, not colour. This Naples Yellow color can be mixed very easily using Cadmium Red and Cadmium Yellow. You can add some yellow ochre to “dull” brighter Cadmiums to a proper PY41 hue.

Awhile back, I won a couple of boxes of old paints on ebay and among the contents was a tube of permanent pigments Naples yellow. No pigment numbers, but the pigment is listed as genuine lead antimoniate. The color looks nothing like the Winsor Newton Naples yellow which is a mix of I think 3 pigments. I guess the best description I can give is that it is some where between yellow ocher and cadmium yellow. I can see how it could be useful, but not needed.