Home Forums Explore Media Acrylics Anybody using Golden Heavy-body MATTE acrylics?

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  • #994177
    BothHands
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        For me, varying levels of SHEEN are confusing in terms of mixing correct values (lightness/darkness).

        Golden sells a line of heavy-body MATTE Acrylics. HERE

        Do YOU use them?

        If so, I’d like to ask some questions.

        Thanks

        #1253206
        opainter
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            I can see how different levels of sheen can be confusing, esp. under varying lighting conditions. Lighting changes a lot for plein air painters. Do you paint outside at all?

            Some paint makers (in fact, probably most of them) use additives to cancel out differences in sheen. I think that Liquitex acrylics are about as even in sheen as any acrylics that you can find elsewhere. Golden’s approach to not add much in the way of additives is in direct contrast to this. So if you are using Golden acrylics, you might find that Liquitex acrylics provides you with the consistent level of sheen that you are looking for. Have you compared the two?

            As far as whether or not I have tried Golden matte acrylics, the answer is no. I use their regular (artists’) heavy-body line. Then apply varnish when done to not only protect the surface but also to even out the sheen.

            AJ (opainter)

            AJ (opainter), C&C always welcome
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            #1253212
            BothHands
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                Do you paint outside at all?

                A good point and thanks for asking, but no, I don’t paint outdoors.

                Some paint makers (in fact, probably most of them) use additives to cancel out differences in sheen. I think that Liquitex acrylics are about as even in sheen as any acrylics that you can find elsewhere.

                Thanks for clarifying this point, too.

                Golden’s approach to not add much in the way of additives is in direct contrast to this. So if you are using Golden acrylics, you might find that Liquitex acrylics provides you with the consistent level of sheen that you are looking for. Have you compared the two?

                This text appears on the Blick.com product page for the standard (non-matte) Golden Heavy Body paints:[INDENT]“Each Golden Heavy Body color is formulated differently depending upon the nature of the pigment. Colors that tolerate higher pigment loads dry to a more opaque, matte finish, while colors that are more reactive and do not accept high pigment loading dry to a glossy finish and tend to be more transparent. Since Heavy Body Acrylics contain no additives, such as matting agents, the gloss of each color will be different.
                [/INDENT]I understand and appreciate Golden’s adherence to providing the purest colors possible, but as you point out, the variance in sheen can cause difficulties in my particular circumstances.

                Until recently, I’ve been considering Liquitex heavy body paints mostly because they’re less expensive than Golden, but when I really did the math and compared price per liquid ounce of paint, Golden is only slightly more expensive…and the Golden matte acrylics are available in jars rather than tubes. Great!

                Also, a matte surface is easier for me to see and deal with during the painting process. My natural light is always “on the move” and my “imitation daylight” can be a bit tricky once the sun has set…

                I’ve had a couple of mind-blowingly good conversations with one of the Golden product specialists
                who is a fine painter, serious scholar and fun to talk with. I much appreciate the scope of product information Golden provides its customers, in person and by way of vast documentation on the Golden website (though the website Search function is pretty bad :evil:).

                Heck, I even received a hand painted color chart in the mail! :eek: That’s a real confidence builder. :D

                As far as whether or not I have tried Golden matte acrylics, the answer is no. I use their regular (artists’) heavy-body line. Then apply varnish when done to not only protect the surface but also to even out the sheen.

                Despite your not using these Golden Matte paints, you provide some very helpful insights. Thank you.

                FWIW, I typically apply a gloss varnish – and my conversations with the Golden rep affirm that the matte paints will not look any different than any other paint would after varnishing. Too good, sez I. :D :thumbsup:

                #1253218

                Thought about acrylic gouache? Hard to get more matte than that.

                A painting is never really done as long as I can get my hands on it.

                #1253213
                BothHands
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                    Thought about acrylic gouache? Hard to get more matte than that.

                    Excellent point, but typically tiny tubes is a drawback, and there are couple of others. In line with your thinking though, Jo Sonja Artist Colours are worth considering. Very matte, inexpensive, large tubes and they perform pretty much as any standard acrylic paint does.

                    #1253207

                    I have used their acrylic gels in both matte and glossy versions, to make my own paints form both dry pigment and predispersed pigment pastes. I MUCH prefer no matting agents added, since it lowers the binding power of the paint (the matting agents are solids that need binding as well), and to me they make the difference between wet and dry paint bigger (which is what makes mixing matching paint hard in my view). But trying to avoid a setting where the painting is reflecting a highly lid area towards your face is important, to keep most of these issues to a minimum, I think.
                    These are a couple of images showing the difference between wet and dry paints, in non-reflective and reflective situations respectively. I hope it is of some help. These are made without matting agents, and with as much pigment as possible, without compromising on paint film integrity (right before thepoint of losing paint film strength, and flexibility). PO73 is slightly transparant, PBr24 is a bit more opaque, which makes for a more matte paint finish, which catches the light when dry, making for a bigger visual difference, in my view. I could most likely lower the pigment concentration there, and have less of a difference in sheen between wet and dry, but I like to keep the pigment concentration high, and additives low. I do hope this is useful for you somehow :)

                    #1253214
                    BothHands
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                        W:eek:W

                        BRAVO on your scientific approach, your DIY inclinations and the time you took to convey the information here for the benefit of all. :thumbsup:

                        [/COLOR]Thanks for the photos. In the first three, I see no color shift (darkening or other change) upon drying. You must really know what you’re doing… You point out some interesting relationships: gloss vs matte, wet vs dry, binder with matting agents vs binder without matting agents, the relationship among all three pairs of variables… That’s a LOT to think about(!)

                        As I am not likely to make my own paints (yikes:D) I think the MATTE Golden Heavy Body line is a good choice for me. The matting agent exists in the original paint formulation, so I won’t be diluting paint by adding a matte medium afterward. And considering Golden’s good reputation, I don’t imagine whatever matting agent exists jeopardizes the paint film / binding power.

                        PLAN B:
                        A uniformly matte paint surface would be helpful, but is not an absolute requisite. A consistent sheen level is.

                        WC member opainter said in post #2 that certain additives render the Liquitex heavy body paint line sheen-balanced, without being matte. Would such “sheen balancing additives” be as undesirable as matting agents?

                        #1253208

                        Thank you :-). Pushing pigment concentration high enough, is what makes a paint like this, that does not seem to have a notable wet/dry-shift. A few pigments can’t be helped though. The Ultramarines, for instance.

                        I haven’t heard of any other sheen balancing additives, other than matting agents. You can go the other way with adding acrylic dispersion (or gel), making a matte or satin paint more glossy, but that wouldn’t be considered an additive though.
                        You are right about Golden products, I am sure those can always be trusted in all ways imaginable. There is nothing wrong with adding a matte medium by the way, the matting agents in that are already bound by extra acrylic dispersion in there. You’ll just get less “covering power” (less pigment concentration in other words). If that doesn’t bother you, that will be perfect for you :-).

                        #1253215
                        BothHands
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                            Thank you :-). Pushing pigment concentration high enough, is what makes a paint like this, that does not seem to have a notable wet/dry-shift. A few pigments can’t be helped though. The Ultramarines, for instance.

                            Aha! Pigment load (or lack thereof) seems so often to be the culprit! :D See my last comment, in regard to this as well.

                            I haven’t heard of any other sheen balancing additives, other than matting agents […]the other way with adding acrylic dispersion (or gel), making a matte or satin paint more glossy…

                            I’ll contact Liquitex on Monday. In the meantime I’ll be wondering whether they add matting agents to the glossier pigment formulations, OR…gel to the more matte formulations. Thanks for this insight.

                            There is nothing wrong with adding a matte medium […] You’ll just get less “covering power” (less pigment concentration in other words). If that doesn’t bother you, that will be perfect for you :-).

                            “Lack of Opacity” and “Varying Sheen Levels” are my #2 and #3 complaints regarding acrylic painting. I’m frustrated often by acrylic paints that seem less opaque than their watercolor counterparts – and all the while, most manufacturers are claiming “high pigment load!”

                            My #1 gripe is the ridiculous use of WHITE POLYMER liquids for GLAZING, and as other mediums. :eek:! Glazing is such a delicate operation: I must understand exactly what color I’m mixing, and exactly how transparent the glaze mixture is. Being forced to use a glazing vehicle that is a milky white liquid that tints the color mixture, obscures the level of transparency, and then dries clear (in order to inflict the maximum confusion!) is not just stupid…it’s CRUEL. :evil:

                            In light of your expertise in paint manufacturing, do you have any thoughts on what to use for a CLEAR glazing liquid for acrylic paints?

                            #1253221
                            LisaInOregon
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                                Speaking of matte/glossy via mediums – I don’t like gloss, but the liquitex matte fluid medium is glossier than (at least some) of the golden heavy body paint… is there an actually matte medium out there?

                                C&C welcome, the more incisive the better...

                                #1253220

                                Sebastian, your photos suggest a couple of things that might help avoid color shift.

                                First, that the painting surface should be lighted so as to minimize any glare or reflection. The angle of the light needs to be oblique.

                                Second, the mixing area of your palette should be lighted exactly the same way. It seems the best thing would be to mount it beside your painting surface.

                                A painting is never really done as long as I can get my hands on it.

                                #1253204
                                Dcam
                                Default

                                    If you want a nice matt finish you can add marble dust or very fine pumice to your mix.
                                    Some actually use a talc.

                                    #1253209

                                    My #1 gripe is the ridiculous use of WHITE POLYMER liquids for GLAZING, and as other mediums. :eek:! Glazing is such a delicate operation: I must understand exactly what [U]color[/U] I’m mixing, and exactly how [U]transparent[/U] the glaze mixture is. Being forced to use a glazing vehicle that is a [U]milky white liquid[/U] that [U]tints[/U] the color mixture, [U]obscures[/U] the level of transparency, and then [U]dries clear[/U] (in order to inflict the maximum confusion!) is not just stupid…it’s CRUEL. :evil:

                                    [B]In light of your expertise in paint manufacturing, do you have any thoughts on what to use for a [COLOR=Red]CLEAR glazing liquid[/COLOR] for acrylic paints?[/B]

                                    A couple of thoughts: 1) mix the glazing color you want, before adding your medium. This way you avoid having a lot acrylic, milky medium in the mix, while judging color. When you’re satisfied, mix in the medium and start glazing. 2) Find a medium that looks less white, such as regular drying acrylic dispersion D498 from Kremer, or my favourite: 3) Use the slowest drying Golden Open Medium. It’s not as white as for instance Goldens Glazing Liquid, the open medium has more binding strength (the glazing liquid has more water in it, besides the retarder additive). And it’s open for longer, which can be really, really interesting in acrylics.

                                    I suggest you try all three, but if you only go for one, go for the open medium.
                                    Oh, almost forgot: Make sure you mix your glaze on an even surface, not a palette with lots of dried paint. Lots of friction when mixing the paint will introduce air bobbles into the mix, which further makes the mix look whiter, in my experience.

                                    #1253219

                                    Golden GAC 100 is fairly clear, too. However, it is extremely hard to get out of brushes and off your hands. If you get it on your clothes, it’s forever.

                                    So, great binding power but brush cleaning becomes a chore.

                                    A painting is never really done as long as I can get my hands on it.

                                    #1253210

                                    Stumblefingers is right, the GAC 100 is probably about as clear. But you won’t have any trouble cleaning your brushes using the open medium. You can even have a couple of brushes going simultaneously, without stressing. Ah, the open medium. No stress… Mmmm… :cool:

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