Build your own light table

Dillon · #1 10-22-2002, 10:31 PM

this is a great thing to know

one question; why do you need a layer of plexiglass?

just wondering

thanks

CHClements · #2 10-23-2002, 01:01 AM

For those of you who haven't noticed it yet, we have a great tutorial from Sami Matilainen about Building Your Own Light Table.

Check it out at...

http://www.wetcanvas.com/Articles2/14313/247/

Thanks Sami for providing such detailed instructions!
carly

jenrou · #3 10-23-2002, 02:33 AM

That is a really nice light table, but way beyond my expertise and cost. Maybe I can get someone else to build it for me sometime.

I fixed up a cheap light box for infrequent use by enclosing a flourescent mechanic's work light inside a plexiglass frame. The type of frame that is sold in craft stores and is all plexiglass, a little deeper than regular frames.
I secured the light inside the frame and backed it with a piece of foamcore. The work light has a cord that you plug in an electrical socket.

captan · #4 10-23-2002, 08:20 AM

Thanks for readin'!

About the plexiglass: It has several functions:

First of all it dims and softens the light so you don't get blinded by the light and so that the light is distributed evenly over the entire glass surface.

Second: it looks nicer since you don't see the electric stuff underneath. (We programmers call it "encapsulation of the interface" - lol!)

The regular glass is of course the minimum requirement (using only plexiglass is not good since plexiglass is more flexible and also a lot softer so it will scratch much more easily). An option for plexiglass is frosted glass - but you'll need quite a lot of "frosting" for it to be sufficient. I quess you could paint the bottom of the glass plate white with some suitable paint but I don't think that would be good in the long run. Another solution would be to use two sheets of glass and put a sheet of white plastic or even paper inbetween. But I'm not sure how well this will work in regards to keeping the colortemperature of the original light intact. Also in time the paper might get discoloured.

captan · #5 10-28-2002, 11:36 AM

I didn't mention much about how to apply the silicone in my article so I thougt I'd complement with posting here...

First of all, silicone comes in tubes in basically two sizes: Smaller tubes that you simply sqeeze - and the larger once that require a special tool for applying. For this light table you don't need to use a lot of it so buy the smaller one if possible.

Silicone can only be removed mechanically once it hardens so make sure you get it in the right place. A smart thing to do is to use tape to mask both sides of the seam and apply the silicone into the seam and directly afterwards peel of the tape and with a soaped finger smoothen the seam - do it quickly - once it starts to harden you should not touch it until it's completely dry.

Make sure the glassplates are placed in the hole so that the gap is equal on all sides. (note: it's difficult to get a perfect fit for the glass plates into the hole so make sure you have enough marigin - this will provide a decent gap to fill with silicone - a gap that is between 2-5 mm is ok)

shmokes · #6 06-27-2003, 05:02 PM

With the glass sealed to the desk and the wood screwed down, how do you open up your box for maintanance? How do you change light bulbs or fix wires?

Sideways · #7 07-21-2003, 03:42 PM

Awesome thread.. !!

I just went out and purchased the materials to make my own.. I've also added a few items to the list as well....

(1) -- Piano hinge
(1) -- Slide latch
(2) -- Computer fans

I'm adding the piano hinge to the back of the box, to allow for easy light bulb replacements. The slide latch is to keep the box from opening, obviously.

I'm cutting (2) holes in the box, on the sides. One for an Intake and the other is for Exhaust. I know the lights will not produce a major amount of heat, but w/ 4 - florescent lights and the ballasts in such a small space, I’m sure heat will become an issue sooner or later.

I’m not an electrical guru, so I went and purchased (2) – 24 In. 2-Light Strip Fluorescent Fixtures. I then stripped them down and screwed them in place. I ran the two lights in series to a fuse box, then to a ON/OFF switch.

I was able to purchase all the materials @ Home-Depot. The total cost was just under $100 US. I took pictures of the whole process as well. If anyone is interested in them, please feel free to contact me; I’ll be happy to post them.

I hope it’s OK to post my MODS here. If not, feel free to blast this post in the round file :|

- Enjoy

captan · #8 08-22-2003, 06:26 PM

sorry I havn't replied sooner - I just now saw that this thread had replies.

@shmokes - how do you open up for maintenance? simple answer - you don't. My dad's box is about 20 years old and he's never changed a fuce, bulb or anything and it's still working! So I recon I'll probably afford buying a brand new one before I have to worry about maintenance.... If you must go take a peek inside a latch or door is a good idea - otherwise all you need to do is break the silicone seam with a knife - pull out the glass and plexi glass and before you close it again you need to scrape of the old silicone - then just apply a new seam.

@Sideways - of course it's ok to post your pics! I'd love to see them! And that fan idea is a good one - hope yours are not the kind that make a lot of noise (like the once in my comp - I can hear it in my sleep.... ). Actually my table get's a little warm when I use it for extended periods of time, it's actually quite cozy in the cold winters, lol! It's not a bug - it's a feature.

**Alan Cross** · #9 09-03-2003, 02:12 AM

What I did was go and buy one of those small flourescent lights that just plugs in they are about 20 inches long cost about $10 and work great....I just lay it on the table and put the sllides on the frosted top.....
Alan

cherrypop · #10 09-30-2003, 12:03 PM

If you don't think you can build something like this some art stores sell small lightboxes for about $60.00-80.00 (canadian).
Plus I found a Crayola lightbox once at a Value Village for $2.00 and it works great. I'm not sure how much they are regularly but Crayola's pretty cheap.

**Alan Cross** · #11 09-30-2003, 01:01 PM

What does the Crayola lightbox look like?
Alan

cherrypop · #12 10-01-2003, 10:35 AM

It's blue and says crayola on it. It's about lap size and just takes a regular bulb and batteries. I like it because I can use it anywhere. I also have one I bought at Loomis Art Store (Lightracer Lightbox by Artograph) that plugs in, it's better but not as portable because your tied to an outlet which isn't a big deal if your working at home. Unfortunately I got the Crayola one used so I'm not sure where someone would find them.

**Alan Cross** · #13 10-01-2003, 03:10 PM

Ok thanks for the info....maybe its an older toy
Alan ....

cherrypop · #14 10-01-2003, 04:22 PM

I did a bit of a search and finally found it.
It's called the "Crayola Light Up Tracing Desk"
It's a kids kit that comes with pencils and things to trace but is also super cheap @ $14.99 on the Crayola site.

www.crayola.com

**Alan Cross** · #15 10-01-2003, 04:33 PM

Thanks for taking the time to find it for me....I bet that would be great for a slide table...
Alan

Salute to our Gold Partners