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Old 06-07-2019, 01:29 PM
Nova pictorem Nova pictorem is offline
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More about stretching

What am I doing wrong?

This is clean thick Lexan, and I was careful to not move the tape around after placement...still, the next day after making the arrangement, it came loose:

The closer one is Bristol board, the other one is Arches block of Cold press 300lb (I know you not supposed to have to do this-but since I'm a newbie and am don't know any better.....)



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Thanks in advance
David
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Old 06-07-2019, 02:48 PM
dustlilac dustlilac is offline
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Re: More about stretching

Are you trying to stretch it onto a plexiglass? It's hard to tell.. it might be too smooth and has no tooth. Another guess is an old, crappy glue on the paper tape. Yet another guess is that you are saturating the tape too much and dissolving the glue. How big is the paper you are trying to stretch?

(myself, I've only ever had luck using hardboard from hardware store and for smaller pieces use ampersand hardbord)
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Last edited by dustlilac : 06-07-2019 at 02:53 PM.
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Old 06-07-2019, 08:00 PM
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Scene Chaser Scene Chaser is offline
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Re: More about stretching

Get a nice piece of baltic ply 1/2 inch. Make sure it is at least 1" longer and wider than the paper. After soaking and draining the paper place it on the board. Cut the tape to the right length, moisten and lay it on the edges of the paper. All the time adjusting the paper so it lies flat. Give it an inch of cover. Do the ends first then the top and bottom. With a paper towel pat the edges, not the center, and let it dry while lying flat. If the center does not appear very wet you can moisten it with a little spray. Good luck! Bill
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Old 06-08-2019, 03:22 AM
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Yorky Yorky is offline
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Re: More about stretching

Gummed tape is an age-old method but I would use staples on a suitable backing board with a tape border if you prefer.

Doug
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Old 06-08-2019, 05:25 AM
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Triduana Triduana is offline
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Re: More about stretching

I stretch almost all my paper, using this technique. I agree with Dusty, it looks as though your surface is too smooth for the tape to stick to. You need something a bit rougher (I use panels of MDF). If the tape isn't sticking to your paper, it may be that you're using too much water on your tape - it just needs one pass of a wet paper towel - or the overlap isn't big enough - at least 1/3 of your tape needs to cover the paper.
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Old 06-08-2019, 05:55 AM
My Beloved Muse My Beloved Muse is online now
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Re: More about stretching

If you're going to use tape, I believe Scene Chaser has given you excellent advice above. He suggested baltic burch plywood, and I wouldn't skimp on using lesser grades of ply surfaces. Some time back I bought a full sheet of 1/2 inch plywood subfloor sheeting, took it home, cut it up and stretched many pieces of paper over it. Color from the treated wood seeped into the backside of the paper. In addition, the boards curved a lot after getting wet. Ugh.

Whenever I stretch paper now, I use plywood that has had both sides coated with a layer of polyurethane and allowed to dry prior to stretching. No seepage from the plywood surface this way. And I use staples as tape won't stay attached to this surface.

Best of luck to you!
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Old 06-11-2019, 03:23 PM
Nova pictorem Nova pictorem is offline
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Re: More about stretching

Well, before I sliced up my pretty piece of expensive Lexan, I looked around, and supposedly it was said to work for this.....but I think you all are correct-surface too smooth...

And, the tape might be not as much adhesive, so before I totally poo-poo the entire idea, and go to staple on pricey plywood, I'll do wet paper towel to moisten the gum tape.

You not supposed to have to do this on 300lb Arches block, right? Does that mean you have to leave the paper in block while working on it?

David
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Old 06-11-2019, 03:35 PM
oldey oldey is offline
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Re: More about stretching

Yes you leave the paper on the block while painting. Once it dries there is a little space on one edge that is not glued. Slide a palette knife or letter opener type tool into that space and gently run it around the edges to separate the single sheet from the block.
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Old 06-12-2019, 07:48 AM
Nova pictorem Nova pictorem is offline
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Re: More about stretching

How about the method where you get rippling during a project, so turn the paper over, and spray the back only, and weigh down w books, etc for a day or two? Then, your paper is flat.

What mediums do not have to be stretched? Real calf vellum? Canvas w gesso on it?
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Old 06-12-2019, 11:02 AM
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CallMeCordelia CallMeCordelia is offline
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Re: More about stretching

Yep, you can flatten afterwards. A lot of people do that. Heavier paper often ripples less. Blocks can work, but they aren't always perfect. My Fabriano Artistico 5x7" blocks do pretty well, even in 140 lb., but I think that's partly due to the small size.

Yupo won't buckle, but it's far from a traditional watercolour experience.

If you are painting wet-in-wet, you can just wet the front and back thoroughly and keep the paper wet as you work, and it will stick to your Lexan. Let it dry and add any details wet-on-dry. It might be a bit wavy, when it dries.

I think there are stretcher systems, too, but I don't know how difficult they are to use. A lot of us just secure the sides of the paper and paint without stretching, but I can see that driving some folks nuts. Good luck finding a method that works for you.

Noelle
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Old 06-12-2019, 08:13 PM
Nova pictorem Nova pictorem is offline
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Re: More about stretching

I’m one of those folks who seems out the hard and fast rules.....always do this, never do that kinda thing
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