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Old 01-19-2018, 10:15 AM
Ribera Ribera is offline
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your 2˘ on sun-thickened. . .

I've come to utilize stand oil in my medium, and appreciate it
provides fine oil and yellows less. One of my former teachers,
though, who had his students utilize stand oil, recently wrote
stand can take a ridiculously long time to dry, in fact, collec-
ting dust for months.
He mentioned when he younger he'd experimented with sun-
thickened linseed oil - which dries more quickly 'n stand
(one of his gripes - He remains a stand-man).
So I believe I'll likely at least give sun-thickened a go.
I utilize the W.C. forum, though, to see whether I couldn't re-
ceive your on it's merits, not to mention any recommen-
dations on decent brands to procure.
r
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Old 01-19-2018, 02:55 PM
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Marc Kingsland Marc Kingsland is offline
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Re: your 2˘ on sun-thickened. . .

Freshly purchased stand oil does dry much slower. However I have noticed that if you leave it in a half filled bottle which you open occasionally everyday, the drying speed starts to increase. Probably because it's very slowly starting to dry in the bottle. Eventually it dries faster than standard linseed while still yellowing less. Something I can't say for my own past samples of sun-thickened, that while bleaching in the sun in production, still yellowed more than stand when they dried.

As a result I haven't bothered with sun-thickened for years and don't expect I will ever do so.
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Old 02-09-2018, 03:39 AM
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Gigalot Gigalot is online now
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Re: your 2˘ on sun-thickened. . .

Sun-Bleached oil is best grinding oil for me. At least, for layered technique.
To improve Stand oil drying quality, just add 30% Galkyd to it. A mixture of 70% Stand oil + 30% Galkyd will eventually dry!
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Old 02-09-2018, 07:26 AM
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Humbaba Humbaba is offline
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Re: your 2˘ on sun-thickened. . .

I have seen a couple of videos of Richard Schmid, where he talks about his medium to achieve transparent shadows, and for general use when working Alla Prima, the recipe contains Stand oil:

1 Part Stand Oil
1 Part Dammar
5 Parts turpentine

I use stand oil extensively in a home made medium, and the drying time is 2-3 days when working fine layers, but maybe has something to do with the region where I live (Caribbean Sea).

This medium is prepared with 10% Amber varnish, 90% stand oil using high temperature for fusing the ingredients.. A slightly modified version is 1 part stand oil, 1 part linseed oil, 10% Amber varnish.

I can use it for general purpose, or for making paint transparent.
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Old 02-15-2018, 04:15 PM
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WFMartin WFMartin is offline
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Re: your 2˘ on sun-thickened. . .

Sun-Thickened Linseed Oil is often claimed to be one of the most likely to yellow upon aging of all the forms of Linseed Oil.

That is the reason I have eliminated Sun-Thickened Linseed Oil from my medium. I used to employ several different recipes for painting medium, and a couple of them included the use of Sun-Thickened Linseed Oil. Once I learned of the possibility of it having such a penchant to yellow, I quickly stopped using it.

There are so many ways to create wonderful, user-friendly, and archival mediums with other forms of Linseed Oil, that I chose not to even risk the possibility that it may yellow over time, by eliminating it from my ingredients.
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Last edited by WFMartin : 02-15-2018 at 04:24 PM.
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Old 02-25-2018, 03:21 AM
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Titanium Titanium is offline
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Re: your 2˘ on sun-thickened. . .

Sun-thickened is a heavily oxidised oil.
Shorter life span and yellowing.

Stand oil is used sparingly in the finishing coat for extra
manipulation.
Can be cut with walnut oil.

Longevity of your binder is what you are looking at.
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Titanium
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Heat -Bodied Oil is the vehicle of all Hand Mulled Paint . A very little Stand Oil is needed as medium or to oil out .
Medium is used only in the last coat/s if needed at all.
In the good company of Old and New Masters.
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Old 03-02-2018, 03:15 AM
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Re: your 2˘ on sun-thickened. . .

Quote:
Originally Posted by Titanium
Sun-thickened is a heavily oxidised oil.
Shorter life span and yellowing.
You can make it without oxidation, just put transparent bottle with linseed oil on direct sun light illuminated place during two months. Keep bottle closed and it will not oxidize, just UV light will make it a little more viscous and effectively bleached. (Shorter life span and yellowing is in your imagination, my own sun-bleached oil do not yellows much. It yellows less than any cold pressed oil. The main trouble of oil and resin yellowing is Cobalt siccative additives to oil paint or mediums. Resins can yellow very badly)

Last edited by Gigalot : 03-02-2018 at 03:20 AM.
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Old 04-21-2018, 07:20 PM
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french.painter french.painter is offline
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Re: your 2˘ on sun-thickened. . .

@Gigalot : why cobalt combined in siccatives makes oil paints yellowing while cobalt pigments dispersed in oil let it clear and give fresh tints?
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Old 05-07-2018, 05:08 AM
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Titanium Titanium is offline
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Re: your 2˘ on sun-thickened. . .

Gigalot.

you do realise to make such claims, the material would have to
be sent somewhere for scientific testing ?
Titanium
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Heat -Bodied Oil is the vehicle of all Hand Mulled Paint . A very little Stand Oil is needed as medium or to oil out .
Medium is used only in the last coat/s if needed at all.
In the good company of Old and New Masters.
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