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  #16   Report Bad Post  
Old 06-17-2011, 09:46 AM
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robertsloan2 robertsloan2 is offline
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Re: Fantasy paint league

I'd like to see them use the descriptions Daniel Smith does on the whole huge range of available pigments.

I don't mind seeing Hues, but want those described in terms of all their working properties. IE none of the Cadmium Hues are ever as opaque and aggressive as real Cadmiums, so depending on whether I want "that color" or "those properties" I'll use Cadmiums or not.

I want the description of each paint as detailed as possible, so I can put together a "glazing" range, a "staining" range, an "opaque" range and "transparent" range in what I'm doing.

I want quality binders and formulas that work consistently across all the types of paint. I want high pigment load and am willing to pay more for the more expensive pigments, if I'm going to be cheap I'll stick to Series I colors. I want lightfastness accurately labeled and tested in the actual product rather than just in the pigment's rating since it can be chemically affected by the binder.
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Old 06-17-2011, 09:59 AM
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Termini. Termini. is offline
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Re: Fantasy paint league

The other thing that I would be interested in with regard to a paint line is price. Over the years I have had opportunity to purchase raw materials and make paint, as well as many other things. The thing that strikes me is the markup. When things are obtained in bulk, the prices a generally very economical. There is the added cost of the manufacturing process, tubes, packaging, shipping, etc, and that is understandable. However, some paints are marked up so high, that it defies reason. This is where the marketing is crucial for such manufacturers. I don't have a problem with manufacturers earning a profit, but when something is nine times the cost of the raw materials, something is askew. Therefore I would like to see paint priced more reasonably.
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Old 06-17-2011, 12:41 PM
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Note: I'd like to keep posts in this thread to the original subject as much as possible please and not have a lot of sideline discussions about related or tangential issues. Feel free anyone to start new threads on anything interesting that crops up.

Alex, I've split your last post off to a new thread as it's a subject worth its own discussion.

Jim, excessive profit or markups are also something worth going into. Maybe a good subject for a thread in Oil Painting given the degree to which this occurs in that medium?

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Old 04-26-2012, 10:19 PM
Agathalatham Agathalatham is offline
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Re: Fantasy paint league

I just joined this website forum. I am a Peruvian artist and love the art forums! I visited ur website really good! Like the expressions on them! I would like to share some of the art and little handcrafts I have been working in USA. malulatham.blogspot.com , u r more than welcome to visit my blog
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Old 07-31-2012, 03:14 AM
Bravethomas Bravethomas is offline
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Re: Fantasy paint league

Good info.
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Old 10-01-2013, 11:07 AM
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Re: Fantasy paint league

OILS

Single pigments only that are well marked with Munsell number. Medium listed with walnut oil used where needed.

If convenience, mixed colours, are selling then market them in a separate line.

Pigment strength noted, this would require a chart. This would be useful when purchasing earth colours especially. For example I'd love to try some of the transparent earths but have no idea how strong they are. Also is there a stong Green Earth in any line?

Ultramarines in every chroma. A wider range of the earth colours.

No subjective descriptives on the labels.

Agree with what most of the comments here. Are the paint companies reading?
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Old 10-01-2013, 12:38 PM
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Gigalot Gigalot is offline
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Re: Fantasy paint league

Quote:
Originally Posted by redgreen
OILS
Also is there a stong Green Earth in any line?
No strong Green earth minerals available in nature.
A good candidate to be a real, strong earth is Chromium Oxide green. Mother nature make a mistake and did not create natural deposits of this "mineral".
Natural chromium clay is rare, great color, Picasso love it, but, it is also weak, like natural Verona Celadonite or Glaukonite.

"Strong green earth" paints all are just fake imitations. A good one is a mixture of PR101 Transparent red iron oxide and Phthalo green PG7. Easy to mix.

Last edited by Gigalot : 10-01-2013 at 12:44 PM.
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Old 10-04-2013, 05:16 AM
Mythrill Mythrill is offline
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Re: Fantasy paint league

My fantasy acrylic paint line would:
  • Use honey, not glycerin, to improve flow – honey seems superior in every way in acrylics, from keeping them moist longer to preventing paint separating from the binder.
  • Use sodium fluoride whenever possible – it's much less toxic than ammonia and doesn't smell as badly.
  • Always be sold in paint jars, not tubes, regardless of size – so we can add moisture to them again if we need to.
  • Avoid using extenders in paint itself as much as possible, except – maybe – in strong paints like Phthalos.
  • Sell calcium sulphate / carbonate with medium (or something equally effective) as separate extenders, so we can ourselves lighten color if we still want to while still keeping film stability – oh, and no tinting it with any color, even if it looks unattractive. Oh, and they would be strong as possible too.
  • Clearly show the pigments on the tube and describe them. I would say something about color names, but in most professional lines, acrylic naming convention is much better than in professional oil lines (just see Winsor & Newton's Oils and Acrylics naming scheme of each for comparison.)
  • Provide throughout documentation on how to keep acrylic paint film as stable as possible when painting.
And these apply to all types of paints (oil, acrylics, watercolor, gouache, etc.)
  • No masking natural umber colors with black or organic pigments to make them "deeper" or "more attractive." Natural umber may look very unattractive out of the tube, but it easily becomes highly chromatic and is a much better mixer. If they want to make hues of umber colors that have stronger tinting strength, improved color consistency, etc, colors must correctly name them as "hues" and each pigment listed on the tube.
  • No mixing mineral pigments in general with organic pigments to "boost" them (i.e, making them more attractive, saturated, and so on) unless this clearly described on the paint tube, specifying and describing each pigment code.

Last edited by Mythrill : 10-04-2013 at 05:23 AM.
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Old 10-04-2013, 01:23 PM
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Gigalot Gigalot is offline
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Re: Fantasy paint league

Organic-mineral pigment mixtures are present in student grade paints to make a "cheap cadmiums" or "cheap cobalts". And, who knows, how much cadmium and how much hansa by weight are in tube? Sure, those cadmiums are almost non=toxic!

Artist's grade paints are true cadmiums or cobalts. They assure us about this.

Last edited by Gigalot : 10-04-2013 at 01:26 PM.
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Old 10-04-2013, 04:28 PM
Mythrill Mythrill is offline
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Re: Fantasy paint league

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gigalot
Organic-mineral pigment mixtures are present in student grade paints to make a "cheap cadmiums" or "cheap cobalts". And, who knows, how much cadmium and how much hansa by weight are in tube? Sure, those cadmiums are almost non=toxic!

Artist's grade paints are true cadmiums or cobalts. They assure us about this.

They sure do, Giga. Just like "Fra Angelico" doesn't have synthetic ultramarine or (phthalo blue) mixed into it!

I would prefer a cadmium-barium mix over a pure cadmium, though. It doesn't really affect color (only tinting strength,) and it makes cadmium much less toxic.
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