View Full Version : Boro Tutorials
09-13-2007, 10:53 PM
Due to popular demand...
This thread will be the boro tutorials posted originally in the boro newbie thread.
The intent of this thread is to provide quick access to the tutorials. All questions, discussion and show-n-tell should be done over on the boro newbie thread. http://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=440681
Starting in Sep of 07 we are posting a new project every two weeks. We hope you will join us.
09-13-2007, 10:54 PM
Very cool! :D Thanks!!
09-13-2007, 10:57 PM
Butterfly (original posting with pictures is in the boro newbie thread page 4 post number 49)
This is not a hard project assuming you have some experience with lampwork. Before you start you will need to make a twisty to use for the body.
1. Now let’s get started. You can use just about anything you have around your work area with the example I started out with an 8mm rod.
2. Then heat until you have a gather on the end:
3. Wrap the gather with what ever color or combinations of color you like, or even dip it a few times in frit. There are no rules!
4. Next melt your colors in. Gathering the end of the rod into a ball. When you have a well formed ball press the ball straight down on to your graphite marvering pad to make a disk.
5. Now you will be using a smaller rod for a punty. Heat the end and sharpen it on the graphite pad to enable you to have only a small point attached to the disk. Using a warm seal attach the punty to the center of the disk.
6. Remove the rod from the other side by heating just below the disk and using the tearing technique, remove any extra glass with your needle nose pliers. Then melt and smooth using your graphite tools.
7. Now you’re going to add a punty to the side of the disk and remove the one that is in the center.
8. To begin making the butterfly you will heat the end opposite the punty, only heat the bottom half, you are making the bottom wings first, until red hot. Very carefully, using shears (household scissors work well also) you will cut about ¼ of the way up the center. Then make two more cuts heating the area first, cutting, and heating the next area, at about 4 o’clock and 8 o’clock.
oops bad pictures it's not your eyes
9. You now have three cuts (right?) and two, soon to be tail wing sections. Heat one side until red hot. Now with a very small rod say 4mm make a hot seal to the center of the wing section and allow the attachment to cool slightly then begin to pull remembering the small rod will cool faster allowing you to pull the larger thicker wing section with out the punty pulling off until your ready to melt it off and move on to the next tail wing.
10. Sweet now you have tail wings, so punty up to the tail (the thicker part rather than the tip, it will make life easier). And repeat for the top wings.
11. For the body just heat down the center from top to bottom and make a mark with your tungsten pick for a guide line then warm your twisty, and the body and lay the twisty in the groove melt it in until it is attached yet still raised.
12. Using another color, make a good size gather for the head. Hot seal it between the two top wings and round it out by melting. Then add a loop on the end of one wing.
13. An easy to make a loop is by making a bead on a mandrel, and heating both until red hot and joining them. Another way is by heating a rod until it is red hot, and attaching it to the red hot tip of the wing. Now moving down the rod heat it until you can mold it around the top of your torch making a C shape with a long end, then melting off the extra and shaping it into a loop using your needle nose pliers and tungsten pick.
14. Now add the antennas, and eyes. And ….TA DA one beautiful butterfly!
Re: Boro Newbie Thread?? Any takers?
Yah!!! our first project!!!! Thank You!!!!!!!
09-13-2007, 11:01 PM
High desert twist by Rashan Omari Jones Originally posted in the boro newbie thread page 17 post 250
Jones Art Glass
Rashan Omari Jones (sole proprietor)
1401 Pennsylvania NE #1145
Albuquerque, NM 87110
505-217-8535, [email protected]
“Lets do the Twist…” http://www.wetcanvas.com/Community/images/13-Sep-2007/111855-Jones_high_desert_twist_set_AmbePendantearring.jpg http://www.wetcanvas.com/Community/images/13-Sep-2007/111855-jones_DesertIndigoDicoTwist.jpg
High Desert Twist How-To by Rashan Omari Jones
Photos by Andrew Brown
Introduction: Living in Albuquerque, NM is a beautiful thing; I am treated to some of nature’s most exquisite colors. As a Bead maker I best describe my style as natural, organic; and I’m happy to have found a bead that can capture that. The way the colors flow throughout the High Desert Twist and wrap themselves around spiraling outward is further accentuated by the twist of the bead itself. The shape truly displays the character of the High Desert. “Sometimes ebb sometimes flow but constantly in motion… “ Beads are a therapeutic release for me. Since I switched my focus to them I’m finally making the glass I’ve always seen in my minds eye. I’ve been a Boro Beadmaker since the spring of 2004. I had met Lewis Wilson a few years prior and he had such a profound affect on my career in glass that I turned to beads. In February 2004 I had an opportunity to work with Kevin O’Grady at the Best Bead Show in Tucson. I learned how much hard work and delicate detail could go into both making and marketing successful beads. I returned home to a head full of new ideas and spent a lot of time on the torch honing my skills. Soon I looked at glass in a whole new way. It was as if a love of beads had somehow awakened a whole new side of creativity within me. I would drive to the studio and notice how vibrant purples streak across the horizon at sunrise, or pay more attention to the golden sandstone browns and creams of the West Mesa. Next thing I knew those same colors were turning up in my beads. I also captured the rich greens of our forests and riverbank areas in the spring, and the streaky golds and ambers of a New Mexico Sunset. Once I had a color palette I was comfortable working with the Jones Art Glass High Desert series was born. I am creator of both the High Desert Twist as well as the High Desert Blown Honeycomb. The Bead Expo Show 2004 in Santa Fe was my first real bead show I vended at. Andrew Brown, Bryan Kitson, and Harold Cooney blessed me with an opportunity and did so much more than just let me on their table; they helped me establish the confidence to create. What follows is a Step-by-step for the Jones Art Glass High Desert Twist Bead…Thank you for enjoying my work and taking some time to spend with me. I spend most of my time on the torch here in Albuquerque, and I teach beginning Borosilicate classes on the weekends. If you ever find yourself in the Desert check out my class schedule and all my latest work, available on my gallery site: www.glassartists.org/JonesArtGlass. I can also be reached at 505-217-8535 or [email protected]
1 12in 14mm rod
1 rod GA Caramel Luster
1 12in 4mm rod
1 set Nortel Stainless Steel Mashers
1 1/8in Tungsten Pick
A few words on Tungsten:
This How-To includes a brief discussion on Tungsten picking. Tungsten is a metal and when too much heat is applied it can fume a yellow gray residue onto your glass. It’s a skuzzy film that can be burned off with a high heat but its best just not to do it at all. As well as aesthetically unpleasing, it is also dangerous when done without proper ventilation. Tungsten picking is a fun and inventive technique and is an excellent addition to your glass knowledge. It takes a lot of patience in the beginning to get your heat controls proper but its well worth the practice. Good Luck!!
1. Heat the tip of the Caramel Luster and draw vertically down the 14mm rod. Maintain an even heat s that the stringer is even all the way down. I enjoy using the Luster Series from Glass Alchemy as a color palette for the High Desert Twist Pendant; the high silver content of these colors adds different shades and hues into the final bead that are very eye appealing. Tip: if you choose any cadmium-based colors, i.e. yellow, orange crayon be sure to fully encase them.
2. Rotate the rod place five equal lines of Caramel Luster evenly spaced around the rod. Tip: keep the torch heat on the tip of the color so that the 14mm rod doesn’t soften and bend while laying the lines.
3. Using the 4mm rod, encase each line of Caramel luster with a coat of clear.
4. Attach the 4mm rod to the end of the 14mm rod.
5. Slowly rotate the rods even in the heat until it reaches a pink glow. Then slow the spin of your hand holding the 4mm rod. The lines will begin to twist like a barber pole stripe. It’s important at this point not to stretch the gather of glass.
6. Continue heating the 14mm rod all the way to the end of the Caramel Luster lines, intermittently slowing one of your hands to continue twisting the colors together.
7. Once the colors are twisted completely; flame cut the 4mm rod off the twisted color.
8. Heat the color back into a gather.
9. Once you have an oval shaped gather center it into the mashers and squeeze. Tip: I usually set my mashers for a 1/4inch press
10. Take the gather out of the mashers and make sure the disc shape is centered on the 14mm rod.
11. Reattach the 4mm rod to the end of the disc shape.
12. Take the centered disc out of the flame and allow it to cool so that no orange glow is present before reintroducing it to the flame for the final shaping.
13. Place the center of your flame into the center of your disc and heat evenly. Flip it over 180 degrees and heat the opposite side. Tip: It’s important to the final shape that only the flat sides of your disc are heated. The goal is to raise the core temperature of the disc without losing the shape of the narrow sides.
14. Continue heating the disc from either flat side until it softens and glows near pink, then stop your hand holding the 4mm rod and the disc will begin to form into the twisted shape.
15. Take it out of the flame and allow too cool; once out continue spinning both your hands evenly until the bead cools a bit. If necessary reintroduce it to the flame to further intensify the twist shape.
16. Flame-cut the 4mm rod off and smooth out the top of the bead with the flame. Take it out of the flame and allow too cool until the orange glow has faded.
17. Slowly heat the heat the end of the Tungsten pick about a half-inch behind the tip and roll it quickly in your fingers as you push into the glass.
18. Continue pushing the pick through and heating it softly in the back of your flame as far back as possible while maintaining as dull orange glow. Tip: if you get your tungsten pick too hot it will fume your glass an ugly gray. A super high heat can burn it off but that same heat can distort the shape of your bead.
19. Push the pick back through the opposite side to make sure the hole is true from both sides of the High Desert Twist. Then pull it out of the hole to inspect the pierce hole and flame polish.
20. Reattach the 4mm rod and center it onto the High Desert Twist taking care not to get the pierce hole to warm that it collapses. A cold seal is preferred.
21. Flame-cut the 14mm rod off the bottom of the Twist.
22. Flame-polish the end of the bead and take all the clear off leaving just beautiful striated colors.
23. Grasp the High Desert Twist with tweezers and snap of the cold seal of the 4mm rod.
24. Flame-polish the end and kiln.
09-27-2007, 08:41 PM
Triple “B” Basic Boro Bead
This tutorial is being written to provide information to beginners and to give all levels a colorful bead project to play with. If you have a little more time on the torch please look through the safety information and see if you can add anything to it.
The official stuff..
A LARGE CAUTIONARY WARNING: LAMPWORKING IS DANGEROUS . Please be careful and follow all safety precautions! AS the lawyers say do this at your own risk.
Some basic questions:
Q. What is the coefficient of expansion of borosilicate?
A. 33 +/-. Soft glass of 90, 96, or 104 is NOT combatable with boro. Soft glass will NOT work with BORO.
Q. I have a hot head torch, will it work for doing boro work?
A. In theory, yes, would be very slow, like watching grass grow. Additionally, with no supply of oxygen, you would not be able to get rich true colors.
Q. I only have a small room, with zero ventilation, what should I do?
A. Carbon monoxide fumes WILL KILL you, and also the fumes from the boro glass are a safety concern also. You must actually remove the polluted air and replace it with clean air not just move it around. If you start getting a headache or feel “off”- turn everything off and get some fresh air immediately.
Q. Can I use a fiber blanket to anneal my boro beads?
A. Sorry, proper annealing MUST be done in a kiln. Some VERY qualified long term glass workers anneal in a flame. I don’t, only been lampworking for about 14 years.
Q. What boro glass do you (Jim) use?
A, I use Glass Alchemy, Momka’s, and Northstar. They all make a high QUALITY glass, and this increases my color palette.
The tools listed are the ones I personally use:
Eye protection: I use a boro shield that was purchased from Aurelis glass co in MN. Highly recommend, or glasses foe BORO, didys will NOT give adequate protection. Have heard some say to use welders glasses. To me, you only get one set of eyes in a lifetime.
Torch : GTT Lynx
Oxygen: I use tanked 02. gives maximum performance 10 psi
Rods: 3/32”, stainless steel. Any smaller diameter, and they will be burning up left and right on you.
Bead release, I use Sludge Plus from Arrow springs
Fire resistant work table surface
Borosilicate glass used For this project:
Double Amber Purple = 1547NS-26 (Northstar)
Star White= 1547 NS-54 (Northstar)
Rasta Gold Crayon = 3OZ GA (Glass Alchemy)
2m.m. clear Boro rods
Some basic advice:
A couple of cautionary words in addition to the fact that heat burns. You will probably melt your first few bead rods. This happens from holding it in the flame too long, and too close. Practice and more practice will correct this for you.
Kiln setting: Set your kiln for 566C or 1050 F. I normally set it for how long I will be torching.
Then, will go get myself a cup of coffee, while the kiln is going up to temp. Kiln is now at 1050, so: it is time to go forward.
Remember the word : P.O.O.P., it is an acronym and is the order of turning your torch on, and off. PLEASE memorize and follow this order.
1. (P) Propane, (O) Oxygen, and shutting down (O) Oxygen, and then (P) Propane.
2. Turn torch on, Propane ONLY . Light with a torch lighter, cigarette lighters are not safe.
3. Now, turn on your oxygen supply. Possibly, the flame will go poof, and go out, if this happens repeat steps 1-3 and turn torch knobs slowly.
4. Use a neutral flame, equal amounts of Propane and Oxygen. (see post #58 of this thread to see how to set a neutral flame)
5. My settings are as follows: propane- 5 psi, O2 10 psi
O.k., eye protection in place,
Triple “B” Basic Boro Bead
1. Preheat your rod of Star White, when it starts to glow, pick up the mandrel you will be using. Make several winds around the mandrel with star white. Keep turning your rod very close to the flame, but not totally in it. Too close, and your metal rod will melt. Continue this until you have a nice even, round bead.
2. Make one wind with your clear boro rod, and melt it in.
3. Make one wind with your Rasta Gold, over the clear wind you just melted in., and melt it about 50- 60% into the clear.
4. Take your double amber purple rod, and lay a wrap over the Rasta gold. Melt in about the same amount, 50-60%.
5. Now, take your clear, and make dots with it, going right into the gold and amber. Make 5 dots with the clear rod.
6. Still, using your clear rod, go back and make squiggles in the colors you have in place.
7. Almost done, encase you bead in clear boro.
8. Keep turning until it is as round as you can get it. Remember glass moves toward the flame, it’s just slower with boro.
9. Let your bead cool for a moment or two (like a five count), put on your ZETEX gloves. Open kiln door, and place your new creation in there to anneal. (Minimum annealing 30 Min) After your annealing time is done you can just turn off the kiln and let it cool naturally, you do not need to ramp down.
10. When your kiln has cooled to room temperature, open, and admire your new creation .
Hope this tutorial has been helpful, and easy to understand. Any comments pro or con are welcome.
09-28-2007, 07:02 AM
For those who aren't following the newbie thread in the glass lobby forum...
Just so folks can plan a little here is what is on schedule for the next few months
15 Oct Using frit and color for beads from Sandra Seaman
1 Nov Icicle from Bill (good for the holidays)
15 Nov Paula from Venerable bead. (I don't have the tut yet but she had talked about an off mandrel pendent)
1 Dec Joanna from Sleekbead
10-10-2007, 06:52 PM
10-10-2007, 07:25 PM
Mr Smiley Heart Tutorial
These are mine done with the tutorial (Mr Smiley's are much better)
10-13-2007, 08:10 AM
Basic Frit beads with Silver Strike 5 frit and variations.
Sandra Seaman, 57 Park Road, West Lawn, PA 19609 • 610-670-3104
One Bead at a Time • http://www.onebead.com • [email protected]
GA Indigo Luster
Black (I like Precision Jet Black)
Elvis Red (self-striking)
Momka Purple Thunder
GA Silver Strike 5
Silver Strike 5 is one of my favorite frit colors because it provides a nice contrast with a lot of different base colors and often you will get nice outlines around the frit and some shiny, metallic luster.
1. Making a frit bead with boro is just like soft glass. Start with a small spacer size base bead in one of the base colors. With boro it is more important to put the glass where you want it to be because it does not flow like soft glass. Heat to a nice orange glow and roll quickly in frit. You will find that the base bead cools off way more quickly than with soft glass. Didn't pick up enough frit? Just heat and roll again. Melt the frit in using the cooler outer ranges of your flame. The intense heat of a boro flame can cause small bits that stick up (like frit) to boil.
2. Encase with clear. You will need to get your clear very, very hot. The base bead should be warm. You can allow the base bead to get a little more hot when encasing than you would with soft glass. The colors will not get distorted as easily. One of the nice things about boro! I generally put a swipe of very hot clear around the center of the bead, then add a swipe on the right and left shoulders of the bead trying to apply the glass as close to the mandrel as possible. If you want to, you can use a brass stump shaper or butter knife to move the clear closer to the mandrel but don't let it touch the mandrel. When you add additional swipes of clear, get the clear very hot and push it up against the clear already on the bead. If you can actually melt the clear that is already on the bead a bit so they meld together, that's good. It is easy to trap air as you wind on your clear because the boro glass does not flow like soft glass.
3. Round up your bead. I aim the flame at the bottom half of the bead, allowing the top half to stick up out of the flame a bit. This is my attempt to keep the full heat of the flame off the mandrel. You will easily burn through mandrels if you rotate the bead fully in the middle of the flame as you do with soft glass. You need to get the clear casing really hot...the bead will round up and condense just as with soft glass if you give it enough heat. Rotate more slowly to allow the heat to soak into the bead. If you see long lines of air in the bead, give it more heat. If there is air trapped it will resolve into round bubbles instead of lines if you are using enough heat.
4. I generally don't strike the beads with bases of Indigo Luster, Unobtanium and Black. Indigo Luster can be struck so you might want to experiment with it. Black and Unobtanium are "what you see is what you get" colors. The Silver Strike 5 can also strike so if you want to experiment with striking all the beads, you can and see if you get different effects. The Elvis generally strikes on its own as you work it so even though it is a striking color, you don't have to do much to get it to strike. The Silver Strike 5 often produces a metallic sheen with my torch setup. My torch (Bethlehem Barracuda) is slightly reducing which I believe makes this happen.
5. For the Purple Thunder, you will need to strike this color. After you have encased and rounded up your bead, remove the bead from the flame until the glow has entirely disappeared. You can hold it in the shadows under your table to see that the glow is gone. Then reintroduce the bead into the outer third of your flame and rotate slowly, watching to see the color come up. It should strike very quickly, so as soon as you see it start to blush purple you want to remove it from the flame. Make several of these and strike them for different lengths of time to see what you get. I generally strike my beads in the flame rather than in the kiln. Some colors such as pinks may need some kiln striking.*
6. Variations: After adding your frit and melting it in, you can add clear dots or stripes of clear, melt them in and then encase. Adding clear always gives interesting effects.
Annealing: I garage my beads at my soft glass temperature (950 degrees). I then ramp up to 1050 degrees and hold them for about 1/2 hour. Then cool down slowly. *Sometimes (to get colors to develop in the kiln) I will garage at 950, ramp up to 1175 for 20 minutes then down to 1050 for 1/2 hour and then cool down slowly. There are many versions of annealing schedules...this is just the one I use.
Have fun...post lots of pics and ask questions. That's what I'm here for!!
10-14-2007, 11:16 AM
Here's a photo of my frit beads. OK...so these are pretty simple and looking at your boro thread, I think you guys are beyond these simple beads but hey, this is what I planned! My sample beads have some other ideas for adding texture to your frit beads.
The beads going from left to right are:
1. Indigo Luster with SS5 frit - just encased with clear
2. Jet Black with SS5 frit - after melting in the frit I raked with a 3mm clear stringer, then encased.
3. Elvis Red with SS5 frit - after melting in the frit, I dotted with bead with clear dots and then encased.
4. & 5. Purple Thunder with SS5 frit - after melting in the frit, I put diagonal stripes of clear on with a 3mm stringer, then encased. #4 was with no striking, #5 was with striking.
6. Unobtanium with SS5 frit - after melting in the frit, I twisted the frit with a thin stringer, and then encased.
Have fun! There are such endless combinations of base colors and frit...no end to the fun!
10-23-2007, 08:53 PM
Here is the icicle tutorial link. http://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?p=761763#post761763
We decided to start on implosions but I wanted to post this for anyone who wanted to try it. The icicles would be really neat for the holidays.
10-23-2007, 09:22 PM
:wave: Well the next thing we are working will be implosions. Here are different links and a tutorial to let everyone get started. We won’t move on to the next tutorial until 15 Nov.
Here is a link with some butterfly implosion info. http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=53406
Goes with the info below http://www.glassartists.org/Gal15510__Cedar_Rose_Demo_.asp
Written by Heidi (Hot Coles) Tube Implosions
Hi guys! Sorry I haven't gotten back to you about the that I do. I use Simax 15.9mm tube, 2.4mm thick. The instructions below will give you an implosion much like the one shown.
I believe the colors I used in this one were teal and Solara. You will need 2-3stringers in the colors of your choice, 2 - 5mm clear rod (for punties) and 15.9mm (heavy wall) Simax tube.
1. Preheat your tube glass and then, using your first stringer color, apply dots to the outside of the tube, spacing this row evenly all the way around the tube very close to the edge.
2. With a different color, add another row of dots on the very end edge of the tube, spacing them between the dots of the previous row. This row of dots will actually become the center of your flower. If holding the tube in your left hand, this row is placed in front of the dots in the first step, to the right.
3. Using the same color as in the second step (or color of your choice), make a third row of dots behind your second row (these were made in the first step), again, spacing them between the dots of the previous round.
4. Make a total of 4-5 rows of dots (or more depending on how large you make your dots). Keep the dots about a 1/2" to 5/8" from the end.
5. Now for imploding. Keep your tube horizontal with the flame and begin to heat the end slowly until the tube closes (continually rotating). When I see that the closed end is about a quarter of an inch, I then press the end on my marver (mostly, I allow the weight of the rod to do the pressing)
6. Return the rod to the flame and hold the tube with the end pointing down about 35-45 degrees to the flame. Direct the flame on the tread of the imposion. Press gently on your marver. Repeat this step until you see that you have your implosion.
7. Optional: add black to the bottom of the implosion, heat and flatten until there is no longer a ridge and is smooth.
8. Cold punty to the bottom with 5mm clear rod. Now heat the tube just above your implosion. When soft, blow gently on the opposite end to make a bubble (careful not to blow it out, as shards are dangerous to breath). Place the bubble in the flame to remove tube from implosion.
9. Pull or cut off any unwanted glass (from the bubble), then heat to smooth out the top.
10. Cold punty to the edge of implosion and break off first punty. Heat and smooth any scar left by punty.
11. Add loop to top, grab with preheated tweezers, and break last punty and smooth out scar as before.
I usually put these right on my marver and batch anneal them later.
I sure hope this was helpful. If you have any questions or something just wasn't clear...let me know. Here are other examples of this type of implosion.
10-23-2007, 11:34 PM
This is the bead I want to learn how to do. I got Doug's video but I still don't understand how it's done. The multiplicity of colors has to be more than a tight twist on a disk bead with dots of clear around both sides. Can someone photo procedure for me? I've been trying the bead off and on for several years now.
10-24-2007, 10:38 AM
Maureen - to make a wave bead like that you would make your base bead from your twistie (two or three wraps from your cane), take a 3mm stringer and apply it in a wave pattern all the way around your bead going from side to side close to the mandrel but be careful not to touch it. Melt that down and encase. These were made with one of the recipes from Doug's video. Dark Dougie Pink, Silver Strike 5 and Caramel Luster.
10-24-2007, 05:46 PM
There are also some interesting effects depending on your twistie and also how the bead is layed down as Dawn has mentioned. (sorry don't have my log book with me so I cannot link the method with exact effect).
Some factors are:
Twistie: How tight is the twist? Is the twistie melted smooth when pulled? Is the twistie melted clear to the unstruck state during the pull or is the pulled twistie struck? Are any stripes protected with clear prior to pulling?
Use: Is the twisting fused on while wrapping onto mandrel? Is it melted on so it resembles more of a finished bead? How much clear is applied which causes the depth and drawing out of the cross-section? After laying down twistie, is the clear applied or is the bead shaped prior to applying clear? Have any tools touched the bead?
Striking: Is the bead unstruck during the shaping process? How deep was heat applied while striking? Was constant striking heat applied or was the bead in and out of the flame (multiple strikes)? How much strike was by kiln? Which direction was striking flame applied?
Maureen, some pieces having complex and varying color spreads may be due primarily with how the glass was treated (gentle vs smacked around) in the process and not just the spiraling of different colors in a twist. Many of the above were learned by trial trying to replicate experiments.
Have fun playing around :D PM if u want and I'll try and answer when I'm back in US.
10-24-2007, 05:50 PM
Moderator, please remove my previous post in a day or two since it's not really a tutorial. Thanks and apologies.
10-24-2007, 07:09 PM
Moderator - please don't remove the post because it gives instructions on different techniques to try with this bead! Thanks
10-24-2007, 10:07 PM
Moderator, If you do not feel the post are appropriate for this thread can they be copied over to the boro newbie thread in the glass lobby. I would hate to lose the information. Thanks!!!
10-25-2007, 12:07 AM
Moderator - can you do my dishes for me tonight?
11-06-2007, 09:12 PM
Check out Don's new heart Tutorial with great pictures over on the LE newbie tutorial thread
11-07-2007, 08:24 AM
Thank you for sharing such valuable information. Now, time to play!
11-13-2007, 11:47 AM
Boro Frit Stone Pendant
By Paula McDonough aka The Venerable Bead
This tutorial is a tribute to all the fine glass artists who have taught me along the way either in classes or in their generous informal sharing of techniques. It is a culmulative expression of my love for this medium. Take it and find your own voice
1 8mm rod of clear
1 6mm rod of clear
1 rod of either butterscotch, carmel, almond nuggest, silver sands or silver
strike 5 that is basically any silver based rod in a beige color
The mariner's promise frit blend and if you do not have that blend then you
can use emma's emerald or nessie's dowry. If you do not have any venerable
bead blends then make your own with some different greens and blues and
throw in some yellow
clear frit in small size (optional)
parallel mashers or you can use a marver and a graphite paddle
tungsten pick (it has got to be tungsten)
frit tray or you can use marble mold to hold the frit
1/8 inch mandrel
brass stump shaper
1. Make a butterscotch bead on your 1/8 inch mandrel which has been coated with bead relase. Roll it in The Mariner's Promise boro frit blend and melt smooth. encase in clear and pop the bead in the kiln leaving enough of the mandrel hanging out so that you will be able to grab it out without burning yourself. I use 12 inch mandrels.
2. Take a 8 mm clear rod and melt a ball on the end. Cover the ball with butterscotch by striping from the top of the ball down. completely cover the clear. Melt smooth.
3. Now get the ball of glass nice and hot and roll it in The mariners Promise frt blend covering the ball with frit. it may take a few times of reheating and rolling to get good coverage. Melt smooth. heat the ball back up and roll in clear frit (optional) and melt smooth.
4. Het the ball until it is hot and molten, flatten it with parallel mashers. If you do not have parallel mashers then use a marver and a graphite paddle
5. Heat the lollipop. Take your tungsten pick and get it hot and glowing. be careful not to put it directly into the flame but put it very close to the flame until it is bright red. Pierce the center of your lollipop with the tungsten pick. Keep the pick hotter than the glass or the pick will stick. Do this until you have a hole big enough to fit your graphite reamer. It may take several times of reheating the tungsten pick and poking before you make your way through the lollipop. If your tungsten pick fumes onto your piece just burn the yellow fume off in the flame. Pleasee make sure you have excellent ventilation and wear a respirator if you have one. the tungsten is quite noxious and bad for you.
Now keep the glass hot and keep the graphite reamer out of the flame. Work the hole until it is the size you like. Keep the hole hot and burn away any of the graphite that gets into the hole. keep spinning the graphite reamer as you work the hole
6. Now remove your bead bail from the kiln and attach it to the top of the lollipop by getting both the bead and the spot where you will attach it glowing hot. You want a hot seal. Bring the two together in the flame then remove them from the flame and pull up on your bead bail. Straighten it out before it sets. Now smooth out the chill marks around the seal in the flame.
7.Now you have the mandrel in one hand and the clear rod in the other. Using gradient heat , heat from the hole to the end with the clear rod and begin to pull into the desired shape. Pull off clear rod and then melt end into the arrow shape. Use brass stump shaper to make arrow. Now decorate the front of the pendant with dots or squiggles and pop into hot kiln.
anneal at 1050 for 1 hour
11-13-2007, 01:06 PM
here is the original and several variations using the same colors
11-14-2007, 06:48 PM
Thanks for posting a link to my hearts tutorial. If anyone has questions or needs clarification, please don't be shy, PM me. And post pics if you try this method.
11-18-2007, 08:29 PM
so... wow... i hate doing long things... i always mess something up near the end... like hitting backspace, and loosing everything i just did, near the end of, of course.... so, try number three....
making this bugger...
first take your tube pull, and close it up
heat the bugger up nice and even, and blow slowly, lookin for nice and even...
then you heat the end and blow out, it may take a few times, heating just one little spot...
then flare the end out...
you should have your silver already on the end of a rod, so with a slightly reducing flame, work the end in the flame, aiming all the while into your bell...(this is a bit much, you can play with it for different effects)
take a smaller clear rod, and add three dots around the far inside, then alternating anther set of three dots, for a total of six(think thats what i have)
now for the heat... start working the bugger in the heat, slowly condensing it down
and some more...
you should start to see the dots imploding
11-18-2007, 08:30 PM
once the end closes, it might look like this
while heating the whole end good, take a 10mm rod and attach to the end
heat... heat... heat, and add a twist to it all (go slow, with alot of heat)
once your twisted like you like, slowing heat your tube side, till it condenses all the way down and you can flame cut it off...
to pull glass for the loop, i heat up the end real well, and take a rod,(any will do) and attach to the end, pulling slightly up and out. once you have the length, you can tap off the punty
use heat and gravity to draw end around to attach back to pendant.
with 6mm punty, attach a cold seal to the loop
and heat off the 10mm rod off the other end
clean up the end
and round off the end in the flame, using gravity
warm up some tweezers (i have some nifty ones that are closed, and you have to squeeze to open) tap off the cold seal and flame polish your loop
11-19-2007, 02:31 PM
Shawn, thanks for the great tutorial, I love pictures. What size and wall thickness tube did you use?
Nevermind, I just backed up a few pages (or was it the other thread?) and found that you said you used 19mm heavywall.
11-19-2007, 08:05 PM
Great tutorial!!! Fantastic pendant and how to make a loop rather than a donut on the mandrel. Thank you....thank you!
11-24-2007, 01:56 PM
I originally learned how to make leaves from the book “Flameworking” by Elizabeth Ryland Mears. This book has a lot of great information for beginners and intermediate boro folks.
GA Trans Green
VB Amber Mist frit
Round pliers (or other shape)
Small brass shaper
1. Encase clear rod with Trans green
2. Heat until lines melt in and then mash
3. Heat lollypop and dip one side in frit , reheat and dip one edge again
4. Melt in Frit
5. Heat until soft and use brass shaper to make vein marks (usually take two or three times reheating)
6. Cold attach punty
7. Make sure the leaf is soft and stretch , if too soft wait two seconds. Heat the body of the leaf not the tip when doing this.
8. Flame cut and heat at the tip on one side and use pliers, move from top to bottom. Flip and do other side (if pliers have different prongs flip those also if you want the sides to match.
9. Finish shaping, disconnect and attch to bead or make loop. I make tabs so that I can easily attach bunches together .
Please post any pictures or questions in the boro newbie thread in the Glass Lobby. I put some cool tools and finished leaves pictures there. Have fun
12-01-2007, 08:34 AM
We've had a little change in plans and our scheduled tutorial will be posted at a later date. But wanted to make sure there was something new for everyone.
So for those who are implosion challenged... here is a Turtle tut. I've listed colors but you can use what you have.
Please post questions and comments on the boro newbie thread in the Glass Lobby.
Clear rod (Med size and small)
NS Silver Creek
NS Sublime (cut into five ½ inch pieces)
Flat nosed pliers
1. Make a clear maria and use the mashers to flatten
2. Use the Green Pearl to cover the top with the last wrap just coming over the edge to cover the clear and melt in well
3. Make dots with Silver Creek and then Unexplainium as you like leaving space around them. Use the small clear rod to fill in around color.
4. Start melting and shaping
5. Make sure you melt really well so that the crackle look seen above melts in. Use the small rod to fill in divots
6. When you get the shape you want start adding the legs that you pre cut.
7. Shape as you go with flat pliers, make sure they are melted in well. Add the head and shape. I use a razor tool to make the mouth. Use black stringer to make eyes.
8. Add a loop or cut rod and use the turtle as is. Make sure he goes in a hot kiln and that you ramp down after annealing to prevent cracking
12-02-2007, 10:15 AM
Just a note: to be accurate- sea turtles front fins (legs) are larger than the hind. :)
12-05-2007, 11:55 PM
This is from Scott Young who you can see in action a Vetro Glass in Grapevine Texas
I wrote this about 3 and a half years ago, but it should help anybody who is "exploring" this technique for the first time...
If you are doing boro (33 COE) I would recommend using Blue Spruce for the petals and Goldenrod for the Stamen (pull stringer for the stamen – approx 2mm).
1. using a 12-14mm clear rod, get a nice ball of hot glass on the end
2. flatten the "ball" into a disk by holding rod perpendicular to marver & pressing down (looks like the following)
3. draw dots or lines on the outer limits of the face of the disk
4. melt in by holding the disk almost perpendicular to the flame (if you think of the disk as a tire, the flame would be on the outer "tread" near the face)
5. once the pattern starts to melt in, tilt the rod/disk up slightly to allow gravity to begin "slumping" the "tread" towards the face. looks like
6. marver back into a disk
7. (optional) you can add "highlights/veins" to the petals by placing dots (2 or 3) on each line of your pattern.
8. place 3-6 "small" dots in a circle near the center of the disk (I find that intense black or ocher works best)
9. repeat steps 4, 5, & 6
10. now, draw evenly spaced lines or dots (using mixtures of green) around the circumference of the disk (these will be your leaves/stem)
11. repeat steps 4, 5, & 6 approximately 5 or 6 times (depending on how well your pattern is "imploding")http://www.wetcanvas.com/Community/images/05-Dec-2007/111855-scottyoung-mult3.jpg
12. now, to finish, you can either let the "slumping" from step 5 continue until all sides melt in to become a ball (my preference), or some people will use a small punty and cold seal to the center of the flower and pull out the stem. If you use this method, you will then have to encase the nub/stem with a coat of clear.
13. now use the marble mold to finish the rounding process.
14. (optional) If the bottom of the marble looks "runny" (the greens smeared or whatever), you can put a small "covering" pattern on the bottom.
Anyway, that is the "brief" (yeah right) steps I use. Your results may vary.
Hope the pictorial helps!
This technique can be used for quite a few decorative patterns/pieces. Some really nice effects for boro occur using double amber purple frit first, imploding a few times, then backing with a contrast color or black. Instead of making a marble, you may also just flatten the back after imploding and place a loop for a pendant.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
01-04-2008, 03:30 PM
Just wanted to update you all on tutorials, Yes we have more BORO tutorials coming. Had a lag with the holidays but should have something soon may see if we can move this over to the tutorial thread.
01-10-2008, 08:22 AM
VORTEX MARBLE TUTORIAL
By request, here is my vortex marble tutorial. This tutorial is not intended to show you how to make a marble. It is to show you the technique to get a specific design. If you want to learn basic marble shaping and how to make a simple marble, I'll post a tutorial on that next week. This one assumes you are familiar with how to shape a marble.
10-12 mm clear rod
4-6 mm clear rod
dark colored rod
Heat the tip of 10-12 mm rod in the flame
Make a gather about twice the size of the rod
Heat the gather and marver it into a cone shape
Draw lines on the cone, from the tip to the widest point. I used NS Tidal Wave, Goldenrod, and Periwinkle, and GA Chartreuse Crayon.
Or could roll it in frit, put dots on it, strips of dichroic, or whatever. This is the design of the vortex, and what you will see when you look down into the marble.
Melt in the lines
Cover the lines with a dark color. I used GA Black-Violet.
This step isn't required, but I think it makes a nicer finished product. It also gives contrast for the lines you added.
Punty up to the tip of the cone with the 4-6 mm rod.
With a narrow flame, heat the cone at the widest part.
Rotate the piece. When it gets hot, give a little resistance on the small punty rod. This will cause the cone to twist. I like to give it at least one complete twist.
Remove the punty, and heat and remarver to the original cone shape.
Encase the cone with the 4-6 mm clear rod. Add more clear towards the tip of the cone. This is going to make sure the vortex stays in shape when you shape the marble. Imagine taking the cone and sticking it inside a marble. This clear is filling up the void between the cone and the outside of the marble.
Don't cover the actual tip of the cone. Leaving it uncovered will pull the tip down when you melt the clear, and add depth to the vortex.
01-10-2008, 08:22 AM
Heat and shape into a basic marble shape. You can see in this photo how there is a lot more clear towards the tip of the cone than at the wide point.
Cover with the back color and shape. Add whatever back design you wish. I didn't go into detail about this back design to save space. If anyone wants to know how to do it, just ask.
Punty up to the back of the marble.
Heat the spot where the large rod joins the marble, and remove the rod.
Leave enough clear to create the lens for the marble.
After shaping, you can see the vortex design inside the marble.
Now just finish shaping and put it into the kiln.
If you have any questions, feel free to ask.
01-13-2008, 10:42 PM
Implosion Ring Tutorial
Sorry about any fuzzy pictures was taking myself while I worked. This assumes you know how to make a marble. Have fun!
Clear rods 3mm an 10-12 mm
Frit of choice
Color rod to complement the frit
Ring Mandrel (Size of your choosing)
1. With the 10/12 mm rod heat and collect a gather
2. Use marver to create a maria
3. Heat and apply frit to bottom of maria
4. Heat and press to form implosion and form into a small marble back the bottom with black.
5. Leave on putty (using 3mm rod) and place in hot kiln to hold
6. Heat your ring mandrel and desired glass. Mandrel must be thoroughly heated or glass will come off as you turn and apply.
7. Decide where the top will be, add a little frit either side and melt in. As you heat marver the sides to flatten but do not thin out.
8. Once ring is formed to your liking put a small blob of clear where you want to attach the implosion.
9. Get the implosion out of the kiln, hold the implosion with pliers and take off the putty. If some clear sticks that is ok if it is on the bottom.
10. Heat where you want the two to join (the clear blob and the bottom of the implosion)
11. Using a small flame make sure this joint is completely melted.
12 Anneal is you wish.
01-19-2008, 11:42 AM
Encased Rainbow Swirl Pendant:
By: Joanna Mueller
Quick Tip: Remember to wave your rod in and out of the flame every now and again during this process. Even though it is boro, you will be painting stripes onto a rod and there is a chance of them “popping off” if not painted on hot enough.
Step 1: Take one of your boro colors and “paint” a 2 inch stripe down the length of the 6mm clear rod from the very top. Melt in slightly (just enough to know it will not pop off). Take your next boro color and repeat. You can use as many colors as you want, however, for the coolest effect, make sure to leave some clear “unpainted”.
Step 2: For this step you can either use another 6 mm clear rod, or a 4mm clear stringer rod… your preference. It’s time to encase all your “painted” stripes with clear glass. Begin covering each color stripe by “painting” the clear over each and every one. Then, you will also need to paint a clear stripe in the areas that had no color.
Step 3: Pick up another 6mm clear rod and melt it to the tip of the painted bulb you just created. Make sure the pieces are sealed together hot, not a punty. Once you have done this, remove from heat just for a quick moment until the glow is gone. Remember to keep your entire piece straight, don’t have the piece you just added at a large angle. Put the entire “bulb” of glass with stripes into the flame and heat slowly to a nice even red glow. Remember when rotating in the flame, at this point, to keep each hand rotating in the SAME direction while you are heating. Once your “bulb” is heated through and is workable, begin to rotate your hand in opposite directions making a “twist” in the bulb.
You can pull apart slightly depending on if you want the design to be tightly swirled, or loosely… the choice is yours. (It will take a few practices before you feel comfortable with this, and know what you like.)
Step 4: Now that you’ve twisted your bulb into a swirl design, it’s time to melt off the clear rod you added in step 3. I prefer to melt off all the clear and drill my hole right through the color other than have a large blob of clear at the top of my pendant… but it’s up to you. Once you have melted off the clear rod from ONE side of the bulb, it’s time to make your loop-hole. Bring the tip of the bulb into the flame and gently shape into a rounded end. (I like to turn mine upside-down for just a moment and narrow it up a little, however, again, personal preference). Once you have your end nicely shaped and smooth, bring it into the flame once more and give it a nice red glow (not drippy, but definitely HOT). Pick up your Peter’s Tweezers and press them together into the tip of your bulb. (Quick Tip: It’s important to make sure you’re not pressing your tweezers together too near the end of the bulb… if you do this, then the top of your loop will have less glass and be weak.) Once you have pressed your tweezers into the end of the bulb and you have a nice print in the glass, pick up your tungsten pick and slowly heat it in the flame. Then, quickly “drill” your hole through the imprint left from your tweezers.
(This can be tricky and it is usually the part where all newcomers have trouble, just keep practicing, it will come!) It is important to keep the glass warm but not molten when you are drilling the tungsten into it. IF your glass is too hot, the tungsten will stick to it, if it is not hot enough, you will have trouble getting the tungsten to poke through. Keep your tungsten at a little glow, but do not heat so much that it is fuming in the flame… HAZARDOUS!!!!
Step 5: Ok, so after a few trials and errors, you’ve managed to drill your hole…
Take a clear rod (I prefer 6mm) and punty up to the end with the loop-hole.
Remember, when you punty, you are heating the punty rod NOT the pendant loop.
Once your punty is on, bring the other end into the flame and burn off the clear rod of glass. Once you have done this, you can begin letting gravity and heat shape your pendant for you. I hold my clear rod in my hand with the pendant pointing UP into the flame. Important to remember NOT to heat the loop-hole while doing all this. If you do, you will distort your loop-hole and have to re-heat it and re-drill it. I let the heat shape and smooth my encasing into a nice bulby shape. (almost like a large jellybean with out the little dent in the middle) If you want your pendant smaller, just remove unwanted glass. Once shaped, and encasing nicely melted around, I like to raise my arm up and turn the pendant DOWN into the flame. I let it get hot enough to move, but not drippy. (hah! Can boro get drippy?) ………then I let gravity “pull” the pendant down slightly into an elongated shape. Or sometimes, I just leave it in a fat jellybean shape. You decide!
Step 6: Flame strike and when happy with color, gently grab your pendant with your looped hemostats and break off the punty. Turn your flame down to a medium point and “flame polish” and slightly shape the area where your punty has broken off.
Put in kiln and anneal…..
Take out of kiln when cool and wear your new rainbow twist pendant!!!
Now go experiment and let’s see those pictures!
02-06-2008, 04:41 PM
Nice pictures for your tutorial JoJo! :p :evil:
02-08-2008, 03:45 AM
This is a wonderful thread. Thank you to all the contributors.
02-19-2008, 03:39 PM
Pulling Points Tutorial:
Here is my feeble attempt at showing you how to pull points. Keep in mind, I'm very new to this myself...it's my own road of discovery.
Pyrex/Symax Tubing (I used 15.9mm heavy wall)
1. With you hands on either side of the area to be pulled, with your palms facing down, begin rotating the tubing high in the flame.
As you can see by looking at my thumbs, my right hand is rotating forward as I hold lightly with my left hand. When the right hand finishes rotating, the left begins. That way you have a continuous motion so that the heat is evenly distributed.
2. As the area begins to glow, begin to move the glass towards the torch, continually turning in the motion described in step one.
3. Once the glass is very loose and molten, always rotating, bring the glass above the flame. Wait a second or two(still rotating), then, slowly, begin pulling the two sides away from the center.
4. As the glass cools, pull faster (did I say keep rotating? That's right, you got it:thumbsup: ) . Continue rotating and pulling until the glass stops and is cooled.
There, you did it:clap: ! Your first pulled point!!!
5. Now just burn the point in the middle, seperating it into two seperate points. Once the glass has cooled, you can use a point as a handle to make another point a couple of inches from the first one that you made.
Now, what do you do with a pulled point? You can use them to make blown beads and vessels...that's another lesson and I'm still learning it myself! You can do this though by scoring a line around one of you points and popping it off...
then attack a small boro tube (do not punty), keeping the hole open so that you can use it for a blow tube. Then attach a solid rod to the other side so that you have two handles. Anyway, you get the idea as to what they are used for. Just remember! Always, always rotate so that everything stays centered!!!!
02-19-2008, 04:04 PM
Heidi ~ Great tutorial! Wonderful, organized workspace as well! Now if I could only have hands like Roger Paramore ~ the human lathe !!!! Keeping them on center is the hard part. Thanks! :clap: :thumbsup: :clap:
02-20-2008, 12:25 PM
BLOWN BEAD TUTORIAL - PART 1
Please take note that the steps for this tutorial are not ones that I have come up with on my own. These are things that I have learned from Doug Remschneider's video, "Blown Beads", which I highly recommend! Keep in mind, I'm still learning this as well. I'm by no means an expert with blown beads...just sharing what knowledge I've picked up.
Warning! This tutorial is time intensive!
15.9mm simax/pyrex tubing (heavy wall)
(2) 7-8mm simax/pyrex tubing (will be referred to as blow tube)
5-6mm clear boro rod
color rod (I used Green Amber Purple in this demo)
boro color powder (I used Teal)
Frit tray or plate (for powder)
Hot Fingers or tweezers
Previous Experience: a working knowledge of pulling points (from previous tutorial)
1. Using your scoring knife, score your pulled point on the 15.9mm tubing and pop the point off, away from you.
2. Heat the end, then, using your reamer, widen/flare the opening to match the opening of your blow tube.
3. Heat your blow tube edge and with both edges soft, join together. It is very important to rotate (this action is described in previous tutorial) the glass once you join, keep it centered and do not close the hole. The opening needs to remain open so that you can blow air into the body of the bead.
4. Begin to rotate the large tubing in the outer reaches of the flame, about 2 inches away from first point. Then as it begins to glow, bring it closer to torch and pull a point. (Rotate!)
5. Burn off point near the shoulder. And attach clear rod for a second handle. Neither of these joints are puntys. You want a full join.
6. At this point you can give your glass a wash of the heat. Taking the colored rod, stripe it on horizontally all the way around, encasing the tube.
Please be very careful not to heat your holding rod, you'll be in for a very uncomfortable shock if you do!
8. Begin to heat the glass from the center to work out all the air bubbles (rotating).
9. As you're working the air out, be sure to bathe glass in an even heat. Your object here is to reduce slightly to get a consistancy of thickness in the glass. Get a nice even glow to the glass. You will notice that it is getting very soft. While still rotating, bring blow tube to your mouth, with the other end angled down, and blow gently.
You may need to do this step a few times in order to get the bead the shape you desire and to get it even.
10. Heat the bead to an even glow and roll in powder. (I'm not trying to create an even look with the powder, but if you wanted the powder to be a solid color, you will have to evenly coat 3-5 times.)
Melt in the powder. You may need to expand and reduce to perfect your shape.
02-20-2008, 12:57 PM
BLOWN BEAD TUTORIAL - Part 2
Step 11. Directing the heat at the end of the bead (end with the solid rod), begin making a gradient heat. Which basically means you're giving more heat toward the end and less heat toward the center, this way you can reduce the shoulder of the bead without any sharp angles. Be very careful not to burn off your handle!
12. As the glass becomes molten, slowly pull the shoulder out making a pleasing shape.
13. Remove handle.
14. Remove excess glass by pulling away with tweezers or with the glass rod you just removed. If you leave too much glass you will have difficulty with the next step.
15. Heat the tip to molten and gently blow on the blow tube to make a bubble. Be careful not to blow too much. You do not want to blow out the bubble and have glass particals in the air.
16. Burn open the bubble and flare it out with reamer to trim.
17. Now using your cup shears, heat and trim little bits of the edge at a time to make for a clean edge. It should be like cutting rubber and you should not hear any crunching sounds.
18. Now heat your trimmed edge with it angled down to reduce the hole to proper size. You can use a graphite paddle to even out the end and to marver into a smooth shape. Be careful not to close the hole.
02-20-2008, 01:19 PM
BLOWN BEAD TUTORIAL - PART 3
Now comes the tricky part (if you didn't already think it was tricky!)
Step 19. Using your second blow tube, heat it's end and make a cold punty with the finished end of the bead. It's very important that you make it seal well enough that there are no leaks. This will become your new blow tube. The trick for me was to keep the bead end cool and attach the blow tube just after the glow goes away. You may be attempting this a couple of times.
20. Now repeat steps 11-18 with the other end of the bead.
21. Now warm the Hot Fingers or tweezers before grabbing the bead. If using the tweezers you will be grabbing the bead by the hole. While holding bead, tap the blow tube on your torch to remove. It may take a couple of sturdy taps.
22. Now heat the freed end to remove any marks or glass left by punty.
Whew! I bet you thought this would go on forever...I certainly did! Now we have a finished bead!
This biggest pointer I can leave you with is just to be sure that you're keeping your bead centered. That means constantly rotating....don't stop moving!
*I highly recommend that you also watch Shannon Hill's dvd on Inside Out Beads. He not only has other incredible techniques up his sleeve, but, you may find a couple of tricks that work better for you when making blown beads.
02-20-2008, 01:38 PM
Okay! Here's a freebie! This is something I figured out on my own, not to say it's a new idea, but it's just how I figured it out. There probably is a better and easier way....but, what the heck.
Once you have attached both your handles to your bead body, now you can dump some frit into it. Use the blow tube to funnel the frit.
I'm using a metal tool with a little spoon on the end that I found at a flea market...was probably some dental tool. I think Delphi Glass carries these.
I fill the belly of the bead about 2/3 - 3/4 full. You may have to turn slowly with just a slight angle to get the frit past the small hole.
Now heat and rotate, with the blow tube side slightly elevated to keep from clogging the opening. As you see the frit begin to stick you can slowly lower that side to get an even coat.
Continue as you would for a blown bead.
See, I still don't make perfect shapes! Practise, practise, practise!!!
Now get creative!
02-20-2008, 06:11 PM
Excellent tutorial Heidi! Thanks! :clap:
02-21-2008, 11:48 AM
Cool! Can't wait to try it.
Thanks for creating a GREAT tut!
02-26-2008, 11:19 PM
Great stuff everyone.
03-12-2008, 08:19 PM
I just posted a tute of how I make a vessel on my site. I haven't had time to get all the pics and directions here, but go to my site and hit the tutorial page. It's the first one. www.posh-abilities.com
There are two vessel demos and this is the second one:
06-29-2008, 10:44 PM
Just wanted to bump this up. If you want to add any boro tutorials or links for boro tuts this is the place to do it :)
If you haven't looked through please do just a few of the things you'll find; Implosions, butterfly, working with tubing, leaves, turtles etc.
If there is something you are looking for please come over and ask in the boro newbie thread http://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=440681
We will try our best to help.
07-06-2008, 10:52 PM
This is done with Boro for this demo. The leaf tutorial is found earlier in the boro tutorial thread on Wet Canvas, in the Glass 101 area. http://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=445124&page=2
Leave color (TAG Sphagnum Moss)
Clear 4mm (at least two rods)
Flower Color (New Color Purple with strip of GA Passion Extreme)
Flower Slice for Center (MB Sunflower Challenge)
Green Frit if desired for leaves
Small flat pliers or petal puller (can use BBQ mashers)
Razor Tool with rounded handle
1. Make a leaf (at least 1 ½ “), pull from rod and set it in the kiln
2. Make second leaf at least as big as the first or slightly larger, leave it on the rod
3. Attach the first leaf, making sure you have a solid weld, place in kiln on rod
4. Pull petals- make a small gather and then mash and pull leaving a tail (tail doesn’t have to be even)
5. Make at least 6 petals, I usually make at least 8…just in case. Place them on a marver where they will stay warm, placed so they are easy to grab.
continued in next post......:wave:
07-06-2008, 11:04 PM
6. Prepare center- melt a small gather of the same green used for leafs and mash to a circle (about the size of a dime)
7. Pull circle off and place flat on a clear rod (should be a cold seal)
8. Start applying petals to the center. Use a small thin flame and connect at the tail. Don’t worry if you aren’t too neat at this point, don’t worry about position yet.
9. Pull points on flowers to shape by heating the end and using a rod to pull
10. Put a large dot in the center (may need a few) and melt. Press in (I use the end one of my tools). You should cover all the welds from the petals. I used GA Passion Extreme.
11. Warm flower slice, place in the center, put a large dot of clear on top. Using a rounded end of a tool mash so that the center is concave and spread out.
12. Change the punty to the front using a cold seal.
13. heat the back of the flower, you can spot heat and pull parts of the base to form around the flower. When the base is as I like it I curve the petals in carefully (I use a marble mold). Be careful not to heat the petals too much, you want them to move not stick to each other.
14. Get prepared leafs from kiln, attach flower as desired onto leafs. Form a good weld, use a very thin flame so that you don’t melt petals and leafs. I place the flower so the leafs provide some protection to the petals once they are in the final position.
12. Gently heat petals and put them in their final position.
13. Cold seal a punty to the end of your focal.
14. Separate rod from leaves leaving a about ½ inch
15. Heat the piece of rod you left and pull around for a loop. Form loop as needed. (If you have trouble with this you could use a premade spacer bead, make sure you have a solid weld if you use a spacer.)
16. Go back and do any needed flame polishing as needed, place in kiln.
Hint, If you are using crayon colors and have trouble with boiling you can use thin walled tubing to encase. As with the flower below.
07-07-2008, 10:02 PM
Here is another way to make a Flower. This one might work better to transfer over to soft since you don't have all the separate pieces. Its petty simple.
Please ask any questions over in the boro newbie thread in the "Glass Lobby" area
07-07-2008, 10:31 PM
Forgot to say that you can pull the petal with the punty last once you get it attached to the leaf.
If you didn't want to add the leaf you could put a loop off one of the petals.
07-14-2008, 07:47 PM
Leslie (aka Crazy Woman) did a great Tutorial, here is the link
In case you haven't seen it, I did a little tutorial that may ~ or may not ~ be of interest. http://crazywomanglass.com/pdf/tbs08.pdf First tutorial, I've done and appreciate any input to make it easier to understand!
Very nice technique, it offers infinite possibilities...
08-21-2008, 08:28 PM
Wonderful tutorial, some of these are things I have been wondering about forever. Thanks for taking the time to share with us.
08-22-2008, 08:41 AM
Leslie, very cool idea. I will definitely incorporate this - it looks kind of like when I use a twistie and encase over that. But I like the idea and think I can get some different effects. Thanks so much!
08-22-2008, 11:18 AM
Love to see what you all come up with! I think the possibilities are endless. Photos when you have a chance, please and thanks!
05-02-2009, 12:29 AM
Wow! that is alot of information, Heidi! thanks for all your sharing!
05-04-2009, 10:41 AM
Awesome...beatiful designs and great tuts....they are at the top of my
to-do list...Thanks so much....I haven't been working on boro much lately....been using softer glass....you have inspired me to get out the bigger torch! Thanks.:thumbsup:
11-26-2009, 12:32 PM
Voic did a video tut to show how he does his great spiders. :clap: With his permission I am adding the link here.
12-01-2009, 11:11 AM
Aweseome...thanks to Voic for sharing his knowledge and processes!
07-17-2010, 10:10 PM
This is just awesome!
Thank you so much. I have been 'absent' for a while and am just coming back to play.
I have bought some boro sampler packs and am just so glad I found this thread.
Thanks for all the good info and inspirational items posted here!!!!!
09-25-2011, 10:28 AM
cant believe this thread doesnt get more posts. just browsing to refer students to. great stuff!!!
01-09-2012, 01:56 PM
Im just getting back in to torchwork, and i remember what a help this tut was for me. Great job and great pics!!
01-23-2012, 12:47 PM
I just posted my new boro recipe e-book in the vendor news...
07-15-2012, 11:48 AM
I start playing with frit. I'm waiting for some new mixes to come so I thought I would play with some of the single color frit I have. These are all North Star frits. All were rolled in the colored frit (melt in) then clear (melt in), then encased.
The base glass on all of theses is GA Ruby Blues
1. Double Amber Purple (DAP) frit
2. Green Amber Purple (GAP) frit
3. Silver Creek frit
4. Mystery Aventurine frit
5. Green Exotic frit
6. Yellow trans Frit
7. Aurora (flashed with propane before encasing)
All of these are on Momka Green Envy
8. DAP frit
9. GAP frit
10. Aurora -NOT flashed
11. Aurora -Flashed
When using NS Aurora, or any of their exotic colors, you can get some interesting results when combined with a striking glass and flashing with a propane rich flame. When you flash with propane, play with the oxy:propane mix. You will need to hit the bead with a oxy mix (or at least neutral) before encasing.
If you face the right direction and hold your breath just right you can get some cool oil slick looks.:crossfingers:
07-25-2012, 01:08 AM
I'm building a word doc that will have pictures with combos listed. I will post here once I'm done. I'm up to 56 combos and counting...:)
07-25-2012, 07:58 AM
You rock!!!!! Whoot!!!! Can't wait.
08-19-2012, 06:43 AM
love this thread!! i wish i'd read the vessel tut yesterday, i made my first hollow (shot glass, but more of a thimble) and it came out pretty wonky, but fun as all hell to make!
01-18-2019, 01:51 PM
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