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DaveTooner
03-04-2002, 07:29 PM
I was at Lowes Hardware this evening to get something to seal one of my wooden pallettes and I noticed that 32oz cans of Mineral Spirits and Turpentine are about 60-70% less expensive than the little 50ml bottles of it I get at the art supply store. Would there be anything wrong with getting this stuff at the hardware store?

Scott Methvin
03-04-2002, 07:37 PM
Hi Dave,

The terpentine they sell at hardware stores is of a very stinky, and cheap variety. It is sold for painting houses and woodworking purposes. It is inexpensive for a reason. It is not nearly as good quality as say, a rectified terpentine. The same goes for the linseed oils they sell.

As for mineral spirits, I don't use them in my oil paintings. Clean up should be fine though.

DaveTooner
03-04-2002, 07:40 PM
Shoulda known. Too good to be true.

Thanks for the info.

ArtistEnigma
03-05-2002, 07:58 AM
Aaaaaactually, I've known several artists to use the kind of turpentine from the hardware store in their paintings and they say that they notice little difference. There is some turpentine that is sold at the hardware store that is odorless as well. It's not like turpentine is hard to come by or hard to process or anything like that so there really is not much of a difference chemically. The only difference is that the art store class of thinners are simply further distilled (http://www.gamblincolors.com/newsletter.html) . If you pour some into a jar and you see bugs and sand in it then I wouldn't suggest using it. Otherwise it should be fine. As far as it proving to be damaging in paintings, well it's only a theory at this point because nobody has actually seen the results of hardware store class thinner causing damage (http://painting.about.com/library/blpaintingtip9.htm). I personally don't use the hardware store class of solvents because I have a lot of the art store class solvent. I say just experiment.

busy91
03-05-2002, 10:04 AM
You know what I use? Brush cleaner. Now this is just to clean my brushes of course, although It does help in thinning the paint some. It doesn't stink too bad, only when you empty it out. I got it in Kmart and it was about $6.00 for a pint. Wasn't sure if it was going to work, but my brushes are clean and soft still.

VictoriaS
03-05-2002, 02:11 PM
Dave, I saw that hardware store stuff too, and bought it. It really is, as Scott said, more stinky than the art supply store type. It also evaporates MUCH faster. For that reason, I think it's not as much of an economy as it seems. Also for that reason, I guess you'd be breathing a lot more of it.

Victoria

snakum
03-09-2002, 07:18 AM
Got to add my $.02 Dave ...

We've been around and around on this one before. From everything I read/hear there are many folks using hardware store turps and linseed oil (unwashed), some of whom are pros. So far, I haven't heard a single actual horror story about these items, only rather anecdotal evidence.

So ... your milage may vary. If you're not selling at Sotheby's and if you're on a budget, the hardware turps and linseed oil will work just fine, I bet. Especially for practice pieces or school homework.

Minh

vallarta
03-09-2002, 05:15 PM
First I use hardware store paint thinner (instead of turp) and hardwares store lindseed oil. I also make my own stand oil.

Here is how to do that. Pour lindseed oil into a clean small glass jar. Pour only about 1/2 inch. Then let it sit for a week and you should have stand oil.

Why pay Grumbacher $2 for the same thing?

vallarta

p.s. you let it stand didn't you?

timelady
03-09-2002, 05:32 PM
Evaporation rate between the two shouldn't matter too much if you're COVERING your turps whenever possible, as we all do of course. :) I always use hardware store turps for painting (rare) and hardware store mineral spirits for cleaning (often!). It also means I can support my little local hardware store.

Tina.

Leopoldo1
03-09-2002, 06:07 PM
Originally posted by vallarta
I also make my own stand oil.

Here is how to do that. Pour lindseed oil into a clean small glass jar. Pour only about 1/2 inch. Then let it sit for a week and you should have stand oil.

Why pay Grumbacher $2 for the same thing?

vallarta

p.s. you let it stand didn't you?

You know Vallarta you are too much! Most of us can understand ones opinions here and we are entitled to them, but to spout misinformation with such certainty is something else again, especailly when other artists are searching these forums for sound advice. Normally I wouldn't even come in on this one, but I followed your posts here like I am sure others have, and you continue to leave us wondering where you are coming from.

First of all, stand oil is made by heating linseed oil to 535 F in a vaccum by not exposing it to oxygen molecules. That means no oxygen. This process rearranges the molecular structure of the oil causing it to be less receptive to taking up oxygen. Over time, oxygen take up will make linseed oil darker. Stand oil hardly ever darkens with age because of aforementioned process. Stand oil, when thinned properly, is superior to linseed oil, because it is less yellowing, strenthens your paint and keeps resins flexible. Used thickly, it will dry poorly(gummy) and wrinkle.....L

G.L. Hoff
03-09-2002, 11:47 PM
Originally posted by vallarta
I also make my own stand oil.

Here is how to do that. Pour lindseed oil into a clean small glass jar. Pour only about 1/2 inch. Then let it sit for a week and you should have stand oil.

Why pay Grumbacher $2 for the same thing?


This is complete and utter nonsense. Stand oil is polymerized linseed oil, heated to nearly 600 degrees in the absence of oxygen. It's a completely different animal than what you're doing--aging oil in the air. I asked you about this once in another thread where you commented about making your own stand oil, but you must not have seen my question.

Advice like this is worthless and will only hinder those who read it. Please, vallarta, read up on this yourself.

Regards

G.L. Hoff
03-09-2002, 11:54 PM
Oh, and Leo, sorry...saw your post after I did this.

Regards