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wabbitt
03-23-2006, 03:39 PM
Study for class: Abstract based on an object. Acrylic paint & gel medium knifed onto 30"x30" canvas. We learned to stretch our own canvas. I touched up the photo because glare was washing out the color toward the top.

http://www.wetcanvas.com/Community/images/23-Mar-2006/76057-wc_acryl04.JPG

If you want to see the texture better, here's the link to a bigger picture: http://static.flickr.com/38/116817998_fbd6c483d0_b.jpg

I blogged some thoughts on this: http://bunny-wabbitt.livejournal.com/8425.html#cutid1

C&C welcome, as well as any advice you might have to help my leaves stand out more, especially toward the right side of the curvy stem. I'm going to varnish it this weekend to even out the gloss.

Thanks for looking,
Julie >:3

idylbrush
03-23-2006, 03:44 PM
Have you considered using shadows to help the leaves stand out a bit more. Just a thought.

Charlie's Mum
03-23-2006, 03:51 PM
You'll make one thing stand out fom another by the use of contrasting tones (values), so, as Howard suggests, some dark shadows under the leaves and perhaps some highlighting too.
Colours are good combinations - but again, you might like to consider the tonal balance ....... if you convert this to greyscale, you'll be able to see more easily if you have a good range of tones. Worth considering:D

wabbitt
03-23-2006, 04:35 PM
Thank you, Howard & Maureen for such quick responses! Actually there is a shadow under the leaves. I used W&N Galleria Burnt Umber straight out of the tube and it is still very transparent (a new frustration). I haven't done it, but I would think on the grayscale, that area on the right side already has dark sticks in the background so shadows won't show in this area. Highlights sound good if I could do it without browning or yellowing the leaves.

Color suggestions for shadows & highlights?
Brand recommendations for a more opaque burnt umber color? I've used so much of this student pigment just to get some color that it'll soon be the first tube to be replaced.

Thanks,
Julie >:3

idylbrush
03-24-2006, 04:15 AM
Unfortunately, I think it the nature of the beast to be transparent, some things in life we can't change. You might want to try and mix some burnt umber with prussian blue which should make a very natural black. You can make it warm or cool by varying the pigment ratios. Also adding a touch of aliz. crim. will make it even deeper. Be very careful with Aliz Crim. it is a very strong color and can dominate readily.

bjcpaints
03-24-2006, 11:38 AM
You are getting good advice here and I really like your painting - its very interesting and soothing at the same time to me.

wabbitt
03-24-2006, 04:39 PM
You are getting good advice here and I really like your painting - its very interesting and soothing at the same time to me.

bjcpaints, thank you for your comments. "Soothing" would seem to fit my personality. I've been told I have a calming effect on other people.

Julie >:3

BlueFeather
03-24-2006, 07:56 PM
I agree with bjcpaints - its a very soothing piece! :)

wabbitt
03-27-2006, 05:02 PM
Thanks, everyone :) I tried using a thin stripe of red under the leaves and I'm happy with the results. Even though I could have varnished with the Liquitex Gloss Medium & Varnish that I've been using as medium, when I picked up my next canvas, I found Golden's Gloss Varnish with a UV additive. I'm loving what it's done to my two paintings. I figured the UV protection could only help the lightfastness of these paintings I've done with student grade paints.

Then I had second thoughts about a couple of red additions. So IF I wanted to rework an area now, after I've varnished, should I remove the varnish? Or can I make my corrections over the varnish and then varnish over the new paint?

There was instructions on the bottle, a mix of ammonia, to remove varnish. I think if I had varnished with the Liquitex, I wouldn't be asking this question.

idylbrush
03-27-2006, 05:26 PM
Have you visited the Golden site to see if they have any information on this issue. I do think they have one of the more technically advanced sites I've seen.

When in doubt.....use the ammonia and remove the varnish in the area to be reworked and then revarnish. It can't add but a tiny bit more time and may save you a great deal of grief.