safflower oil as vehicle

[Cochisa]

I've been shopping around after checking into my new needed colors this year, and am considering trying a different brand for my manganese blue. I am very happy with the quality and color of OH manganese blue, but I'm on a bit of a budget and notice the price jump on some of my favorites. I'll probably always sacrifice to pay for OH Mang blue, but thought I'd ask if anyone has had experience with Sennilier mang blue?
I've never used pigment with safflower oil for a vehicle, would anyone care to comment?
I normally use OH and Rembrandt. I have a lot of old Grumbacher's that I use too.
Then comparing for naples yellow light, I found in Rembrandt and Sennilier. Has anyone had experience with these naples? Are they the real deal? I haven't been able to locate the genuine old naples yellow light, and just can't afford to keep buying the wrong tubes.. I realize it's a hard one to acquire, like a good manganese.
Thanks!
Cochisa

[Tony11214]

Hi,

Gamblin makes a Mang Blue Hue that's so dead on in color to OH's real mang blue, I had trouble telling them apart.

Tony

[jdadson]

No one makes manganese blue pigment anymore. I think there are only maybe two small shops that have some left. When that's gone, it's gone.

[gunzorro]

jdadson -- That's not quite true. OH makes the paint (not the pigment), as does Doak, Blockx and Holbein. Doak's is the most expensive blue in his line at $28. If it were me, I would start with the Holbein Mang. Nova Blue, or the Blockx.
Safflower is fine, but a little slower than linseed, but faster than walnut. Nice handling. Blockx is made with poppyseed oil, so you may want to use a dryer like lead napthanate, but the color is amazing.
Michael Harding makes a wonderful genuine Naples Yellow Light and Deep. Available through the Italian Art Store in the US. Rembrandt and Sennelier's current production are not genuine. Doak also has a genuine Naples Yellow.

[Brian Firth]

Blockx and Holbein no longer offer genuine manganese blue, their versions are hues made with PB15. The Sennelier is not the real pigment either. OH is the only large scale paint manufaturer that still uses the real pigment. They claim to have enough to last about ten more years. The only other small botique paint makers that still use the real PB33 is Doak and Vasari. Kama pigment and Guerra Paint still sell the dry pigment.

[Brian Firth]

Blockx and Holbein no longer offer genuine manganese blue, their versions are hues made with PB15. The Sennelier is not the real pigment either. OH is the only large scale paint manufaturer that still uses the real pigment. They claim to have enough to last about ten more years. The only other small botique paint makers that still use the real PB33 is Doak and Vasari. Kama pigment and Guerra Paint still sell the dry pigment.

[Cochisa]

Thanks Brian.
I believe in OH too.
What are your opinions about the naples yellow light, not to be confused with naples yellow or any other variation of the pigment. I have been seeking the light for some time, and see two places that ad for it. In the past I was able to be able to acquire at no problem.
...many years I have to admit..
Thank You, Gun...
Maybe I should try a tube of Doak, although I'm perfectly happy with OH performance.
I just start to get a bit of a headache.... and have been experimenting with different vehicles for oils.
as always...heh.
still using linseed after all these years.
lotsa love,
Cochisa

[Brian Firth]

I have never used genuine Naples yellow light but the two paint makers who offer it, Vasari and Michael Harding, both have very good reputations. If you go to their websites they have swatches posted. I also have a hand painted color chart for Michael Harding. From my chart and the images on their websites it looks to be very similar to a cadmium yellow light with a small amount of white added to it. Kremer pigments sells Naples Yellow Light, Deep and Reddish in dry pigment form. Here are their websites:

http://www.kremer-pigmente.de/englisch/krpigm02.htm
http://michaelharding.co.uk/colours.php
http://www.shopvasaricolors.com/IBS/SimpleCat/Product/asp/hierarchy/00/product-id/636042.html

Oh, and in my opinion all the commonly used drying oils (safflower, poppy, linseed, sunflower and walnut) all work fine for any paintings you plan to be around in the next 100 years. They each have their distinct advantages and disadvantages, but all function well as a vehicle and binder.