Correct me if I'm wrong...

[schoy]

Is it possible that some people use Lauscha clear to encase Moretti based beads? I haven't done any encasing yet (newbie lampworker here), but for some reason that's my impression, even though they have different COEs (even as I type this it sounds ridiculous - but who knows?)

Thanks,
Susan.

[glasspat]

Yes, Laucha is compatible with moretti. Works great for me. When I first started encasing I melt a big blob, flatten it with mashers, and put on the rod holder while I make the bead. Then slowly heat the flat blob in the back of the flame bringing it down and when it starts to bend wrap it around the bead you have kept under the flame to keep warm. Hope this helps.

[schoy]

Thanks glasspat. Your information certainly does help...whew! It's good to know especially since I've been working with Moretti rods and have noticed the not-so-clear results of the Moretti clear rods.

[glasspat]

Laucha is beautifully clear and if you get the thicker rods you can get a nice size blob for encasing. You are welcome

[Josie]

Just remember to follow the Lauscha rules (not Moretti even if the core is Moretti) when using it for encasing or else your beads will crack. Always put in the kiln while still glowing.:)

Tracey

[glasspat]

Tracey, if it isn't glowing enuf is that what could cause just the clear to crack almost in half? I have had that happen a couple times and don't really know why sometimes it works fine and other times I can lose a couple.

[schoy]

Thanks Tracey :)

[CharleneN]

Tracey, if it isn't glowing enuf is that what could cause just the clear to crack almost in half? I have had that happen a couple times and don't really know why sometimes it works fine and other times I can lose a couple.
I would say the answer to this question is yes. I love Lauscha for encasing but it is very touchy about staying nice and toasty warm. If you let is cool as much as you would an all Effetre bead, it will probably thermal shock and crack.

For those of you who are wondering, glowing means glowing while looked at say under your work bench....basically look at the bead in alittle dimmer light than you used while making it and you can see if it is glowing and how evenly it is glowing. You want a nice even glow thru out the bead but you want the bead to make that little "tinking" sound if you tap it on metal.

I've been making some really huge encased beads with Lauscha clear lately and looking at it in a dimmer light really helps me to be sure I have a nice even glow (meaning even heat distribution) in the bead. Sometimes I think the bead is evenly heated only to see that one end is not glowing and the other end is. This type of bead would most likely crack if I popped it into the kiln that way.

I hope this helps!

[glasspat]

Thanks Charlene that does help. It is disheartening to work over half an hour only to have it crack when its finished. Do you know if Kugler gives the same sort of problems. :)

[PatNewMex]

If I don't have a kiln to pop an encased bead into, am I out of luck? I have a huge pot of vermiculite and have only once had a bead crack in three years.

Pat

[PatNewMex]

Sorry, I keep double-posting today!

[Emily]

For those of you who are wondering, glowing means glowing while looked at say under your work bench....basically look at the bead in alittle dimmer light than you used while making it and you can see if it is glowing and how evenly it is glowing. You want a nice even glow thru out the bead but you want the bead to make that little "tinking" sound if you tap it on metal.

This is the amount of glow I use for Moretti/Effetre -- not glowing visibly in normal working light, but with a visible glow under the table. I put the Lauscha in hotter -- straight from the torch to the kiln, although I have to get up and walk 15 or 20 feet to the kiln, so the glow would have time to fade a little.

Evening out the heat base is really important for any bead, encased or not. I had the end crack off of a lot of bicones before I learned that lesson.

I was a huge advocate of encasing Effetre with Lauscha, but I've gotten a little less comfortable with it. The COE is basically the same, but the viscosity is different. Lauscha clear is significantly stiffer than Effetre. I haven't had any cracking episodes that I can unequivocally blame on using Lauscha with Effetre, but I can't say that the possibility doesn't exist. I've switched to Vetrofond, but it's not as pretty as Lauscha and I'm definitely picking more scum out, so I could end up switching back and taking the risk.

My Kugler clear is still sitting in a box on the floor, so I can't say anything from personal experience, but I've seen several posts on the ISGB forum complaining about cracking with the Kugler clear.