using plexi/acrylic instead of glass for framing

[freedda]

I'm framing a number of my inkjet photos to place in a gallery. I've been looking at using non-glare plexiglass or acrylic. I've found various sources for these, ranging from about 1/16 to 1/8 inch thick. Also have found regular, UV resistent varieties, along with non-glare.

Does anyone have experience with non-glare plexi and can comment or make suggestions on its use with photos? (I've gotten a range of opinions, from best thickness to use, to not using it at all -- I'm now very confused.)

Do anyone have recommendations on which brands/types to use, and where I can buy these?

[Helen Zapata]

Hi freedda

I don't think I would use plexi-glass unless it was absolutely necessary. While it's less likely to break, it will also tend to scratch much easier. It can even scratch while simply being cleaned. Is there a reason why you wouldn't want to use glass?

Helen

[freedda]

Mostly, I was trying to cut down on weight. Also, I've been told that plexi is actually "clearer" than glass, in that it has no blue-ish tint like glass does. I'm aware of the scratch issue, but thought it was a trade-off for less weight.

David.

[NAZZ]

actually, plexi will preserve your photos better, as they reflect harmful uv rays. my husband works in a museum, and is a photographer, and i think his plexis are usually 1/8th of an inch thick. i can confirm it when he gets home.

[Bringer]

Hi,

Working with pastels, I've been checking the different glazzing possibilities.

« Also, I've been told that plexi is actually "clearer" than glass, in that it has no blue-ish tint like glass does. I'm aware of the scratch issue, but thought it was a trade-off for less weight. »

The tint is usally greenish and there's glas without that tint. Tru vue calls it water glass, if I'm not mistaken (low iron)
Plexiglass - which is a brand - has an anti-scratch acrylic and non glare ( when I say non glare is not the one that has a fuzzy surface) . It's called Museum Acrylic, but prepare to spend the bucks.
Anyway, take a look at the Plexiglass site and at the following links :

http://www.viratec.com/downloads/tv_cat.pdf

http://www.masterframing.com/technicalinfo.html

Best regards,

José

[manfrommerriam]

I am using plexiglass, having been using glass earlier.
My comments:
1) it costs a bit more.
2) it is safer and involves less liability in a public place. It is what you want to sell to someone with children at home.
3) it is simple, easy and safer to cut to size yourself.
4) it is required by many exhibitions.
5) it will drive you nuts with static attracted lint when you go to close it up. There is an anti-static cloth sold in photo shops that really works well.
6) A special liquid cleaner is sold for it in the hardware department where you buy the plastic. Use very soft tissue. Do this and you won't scratch it.
7) Lexan versions that are actually bullet proof are available for a lot of money. You don't need this.
8) it is lighter and hence cheaper to ship and easier on wall mounts.
9) examine it carefully in the store to avoid buying pre-scratched or flawed plastic.
10) some stores will cut it for you, for free or for cheap.
11) yes, you may note a change in the appearance... it is quite clear and does not have the green-bluish color much glass has.
12) a static charge on the plexi will give you problems with un-fixed pastels and charcoal. Use anti-static cleaner, plexi cleaner and the cloths mentioned in 6) above. Don't frame your work on very dry days.

Have fun, :cat: Dave