Looking for instructions to make a marble mold

[stainedglasschick]

Hi, I'm looking for instructions on how to make your own marble mold. These things are expensive. Hope someone can help. I don't even know if it is possible to make them yourself ,but I hope so.

Thanks to anyone who can help.

Becky

[loco]

I'm not sure if they have instructions but try asking at the Contemporary Marble Maker Board.

http://pub82.ezboard.com/fmarblemakersforum50852frm1

loco

[Glassy79]

Hi, I'm looking for instructions on how to make your own marble mold. These things are expensive. Hope someone can help. I don't even know if it is possible to make them yourself ,but I hope so.

Thanks to anyone who can help.

Becky


Becky, True, they are and can be expensive. But in the long run they are far cheaper then making them or even buying the cheaper molds. If you make marbles you’re going to want the Drew Fritts marble molds. “The Infinite Rim Mold™” here’s the link to Drew’s site. http://frittsartglass.com/marbles/molds/Order.html

One has to take into consideration the time one spends rounding a marble along with the cost of the mold. Not to mention the oxygen and propane you will use. The time you spend rounding a marble in one of Drew’s mold will cut a considerable amount of time off rounding it. Over the years I have spent far too much on the other molds. They did work, I can’t say they didn’t. But after using Drew’s new Infinite rim molds. I can say they cut into the time making them round tremendously . And the quality of the molds was far above any of the other I purchased. Do yourself a favor and spend the extra and get the multi hole mold. You won’t be sorry one bit.

Richard

"Cheap things are not good, Good things are not cheap" ;)

[MikeAurelius]

Actually, it's fairly easy to make a marble mold.

You need some graphite, a good HEPA respirator, a good strong shop vacuum with a HEPA filter, a drill press and a ball mill.

You typically want to drill only about 45% of the hold with the ball mill, and then using very fine abrasive paper, gently roll the edge of the hole to form an aspheric surface.

Fine out any surface irregularities with the paper, and you are all set.

It's expensive, but very easy to do.

The reason to go only 45% into the mold is that the ball mill cuts a hemispherical hole if you go to 50%, which leaves a ledge that your soft glass can catch on, leaving a ridge in your marble. It takes practice and good control to properly drill the hole.

Who knows, you might want to start selling them yourself!

Don't be afraid of re-inventing the wheel. You may come up with a totally new way of doing things that will completely revolutionize the marble making world.

Good Luck! :clap:

[Tink]

I like Walter Evans' cherry wood molds... Yum!

[BioImage]

I turned my own on my lathe out of cherry. Find yourself a local turner and get them to turn them out as end-grain hollowed pieces. Just explain the shape you want and it should be quick and fairly cheap. You can drill a small side hole to plug a dowel into for a handle. Just remember to give them a long soak before you use them, keep them in water afterward. Mine live in the refrigerator in a tupperware of water.

Robert

[McDuffie]

Try this:
http://frittsartglass.com/marbles/articles/CherryMolds.html

[Kurthj]

I made graphite molds and let me tell you that the graphite dust gets all over everything! Even with a vacuum held right at the cutting spot. And unless your vacuum is a high class one with hepa rated pre and post filters some of that dust goes right through the vac!! Remember that graphite conducts electricity, you can ruin an electric motor or possibly shock yourself. Also ball mills or core box cutters over 3/4 inch are not cheep. The ones over 1 inch can run you $75 or more. It's really not worth the mess or expense to cut your own graphite.
Now cutting cherry wood molds is another thing altogether. For instance, on the Drew Fritts site he shows you how to make your own cutters out of inexpensive wood spade bits. You can use only cherry to form your marbles, but it will wear out(get larger) in a short time. I use graphite to form the marble and cherry to polish it. If you want to make your own be sure to soak the wood for 6-8 WEEKS( until it will not float) BEFORE you cut the holes. The holes will be easier to cut, but more importantly if you cut the wood dry and then soak the holes can distort and may not be round. I normally make blocks 2 x 2 x 3 inches,and then soak, you can make four different size molds on one block. Add a 1/2 dowel for a handle. After cutting the molds are always kept wet for the rest of their life. I was taught to season each hole by dropping a fairly molten gather into the hole to form an even layer of carbon. Remember to rewet the mold after EACH use, just put it back in the container of water next to your bench.
Good luck,
Kurt :)

[glassfreek]

It could cost way more to make one in the long run just a one inch round bit can run you $150 bucks. check this out great tool solid brass 50 bucks.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34070&item=2691308859

mike

[Kurthj]

It could cost way more to make one in the long run just a one inch round bit can run you $150 bucks. check this out great tool solid brass 50 bucks.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34070&item=2691308859

mike
Brass is okay, but you would need to use beeswax with it to prevent the glass from sticking. Graphite does not have that problem and wet cherry wood forms a layer of steam inside the mold.
Kurt :)

[glassfreek]

Brass is okay, but you would need to use beeswax with it to prevent the glass from sticking. Graphite does not have that problem and wet cherry wood forms a layer of steam inside the mold.
Kurt :)

it wont stick at all kurt I have that mold and use it alot making vortex marbs for my blown pieces, I also have cherry and prefer the brass. cherry is ok but will burn out on you and get dead spots.

mike

[Crayolahalls]

it wont stick at all kurt I have that mold and use it alot making vortex marbs for my blown pieces, I also have cherry and prefer the brass. cherry is ok but will burn out on you and get dead spots.

mike


This is where my buddy got his marblemakers. They are reasonably inexpensive, especially if you have an idea of what size you would like to make. The friend who has the graphite paddles loves them.

http://www.artglass1.com/lgtoolwebmarbler.htm

I don't personally have any of these, but I have done business with the company on other products and I have recieved good service (both online and over phone).

[Kurthj]

it wont stick at all kurt I have that mold and use it alot making vortex marbs for my blown pieces, I also have cherry and prefer the brass. cherry is ok but will burn out on you and get dead spots.

mike
Mike,
Perhaps you are using different glass, in my experience soft glass tends to stick to brass. Cherry wood will deform if you don't season it correctly and then re-wet it after each use. I suppose if you use it too hot you could burn out of round areas in the mold. I normally wait from 5 to 8 seconds( depending on the size and heat) after leaving the flame before I put the glass in the mold. Mine just get larger with use, after a while I just make new ones. It takes about 15 minutes to make a mold once you get the hang of it. I think the finish from a cherry wood mold is outstanding and it is real fast.
Keep it round,
Kurt :)

[Tink]

I use my graphite tools to smooth soft glass and my brass tools to move the glass, because it kind of grabs it. I can't imagine using a brass marble mold! More info, please!!!!

[Kurthj]

I use my graphite tools to smooth soft glass and my brass tools to move the glass, because it kind of grabs it. I can't imagine using a brass marble mold! More info, please!!!!
Tink,
I taught myself to make marbles. Since there were no teachers available in So. California, I got information from the internet. Drew Fritts is considered to be a master of soft glass marbles. I looked at what he had accomplished and thought why not try to learn how a master does it. Drew is also very giving, his web site has a lot of information on marble making. He uses graphite to form the marble and cherry wood for final polish. His new molds are wonderful, I have two. My first graphite mold was just a block with several holes in it. I still use that. The great part of a Fritts/ Grumbling mold is the fact that several sizes of marble can be made in each hole. Since I am sill fairly new I make set ups from many different rod sizes of glass. I also use Spectrum flat glass. By using Drews mold I never have to worry if I have too much or too little glass on my punty. I can always make a whole marble.
Over the holidays I was finally able to fly to Kansas and take some lessons from Robert LaGrand. He makes marrbles in the same manner. He also taught me how to make my own cherry wood molds. I learned to make block molds with holes on each side, and flat molds (2x 6x 1/2). The flat molds just have a hole drilled all the way through and I use the rim of the hole to polish the marble. This way I can have many sizes of cherry wood for all the different sizes that come from my Fritts/ Grumbling IRM graphite molds.
I have never used brass, but like yourself, I use my stump shaper to grab the glass. Also I have read that brass needs wax if you use it as a mold. All of the offhand glass blowers use cherry to shape their glass, so it makes a lot of sense. The secret to wood shaping is to always keep it wet and re- wet after each use.
Hope this helps,
Kurt :)