Making dots: do you use rod or stringer??

[StefaniBeads]

I'm having a big dilemma with dots! First problem is my lack of arm support, so I do get a little too shaky and quaky to place them, and a lot of the time I just don't bother with them at all. But I think dots are a very important part of design, and I believe they would definitely make the beads I create more interesting. I just ordered arm rests about 10 minutes ago. (yay! finally)

Problem #2: Am I such a perfectionist that when I do make a bead and even if one dot is just slightly off, I throw that bead in the Wonky Bin??!! (a LOT of wonkies in there, lol!) I won't let myself sell them on eBay unless those dots are absolutely perfect. Do I have to be like this?

Problem #3: Method. I use the rods for applying dots, and just recently tried using Moretti stringers. The rods can be a pain in getting the dots the same size, and the stringer "balls up" too easily. I know, ensure I work outside the flame every time, and PPP. :p ;)

So I'm wondering, which do you use the most, stringers or rods for your dots? Tips and advice, plz? :)

[BioImage]

I use stringers. Most of the time I pull my own from rods so I can have exactly the size stringer that I want.

Robert

[AlexM]

It depends. I know, that was VERY helpful :rolleyes:

1. On the the size of the dots I want. Small dots = stringer
2. On the size of the rods I have, some are 3mm, some are 12mm+
3. On the color, some colors are very soft like white, so I use stringer. Some colors are very stiff, like cobalt, so I can get away with using a small rod.

I have been using improvised wrist rests and they have really improved my dots, so Barry is going to built me better wrist rests.

[nicker]

I too am dot challenged...sigh....I find fatter stringer easier....in fact I am off to pull stringer as we speak!

[!Karen]

I use prayer.........and premade stringer. My pulled stringers are sooooooo thin, I must be pulling too fast. Shaking hands here too!!

:) Karen

[rufusandroxy]

I find if I bend my srist with one mandrel in my hand..under the flame and lean my inner wrist against the base of the torch and quickly add my dots it helps....does this make sense...I get so shaky sometimes I just have to give up. It means I end up working in the very hottest part of my flame, but I keep everything well off to the side, as for size as the last reply said, totally depends on the size of dots I use. Tiny stringer for base dots, larger stringer for distortion dots and a full rod with only the very tip for .......well actually I only do this when I am in the middle of a design and too lazy to pull more stringer. As for the perfection level I can't really help on that since I am very new to bead making but out of the sets I have sold that were REAL NOT practice all my customers have been thrilled and no one has ever said " OH MY THAT DOT IS SMALLER THAN THAT ONE", even though I might with my own work but that is because I make them. Most of my customers just love nice beads at a good price and have no idea how difficult it really is to make these. I have ordered some arm rests and sure hope they help. Have fun and enjoy your wonderful Art.

Amanda
THE CRAFTIER SIDE
rufusandroxy:ebay seller name :p I use prayer.........and premade stringer. My pulled stringers are sooooooo thin, I must be pulling too fast. Shaking hands here too!!

:) Karen

[saucy]

I'm having a big dilemma with dots! First problem is my lack of arm support, so I do get a little too shaky and quaky to place them, and a lot of the time I just don't bother with them at all. But I think dots are a very important part of design, and I believe they would definitely make the beads I create more interesting. I just ordered arm rests about 10 minutes ago. (yay! finally).
I'm going to try to answer your questions one by one.

1. I had the same problem with shakiness. I just ordered the arm pads last night, but I also got the Corina book for Christmas. In it there is a way to apply dots by holding one hand on top of the other. Tremendous results for me.

2. Lampwork beads are handmade and they will never be "perfect". They are not machine made and that's why they are so desirable. I'm sure the ones in the wonky jar are great. Don't be too hard on yourself. I have yet to make a perfect set of dots. It's not expected, but I get them as close as I can.

3. I don't like the moretti stringer. It's too thick for most of my applications. When I want thick stringer I use my pyrex punty and melt my color and pull a smaller rod.

For most I have 2mm stringer or fatter. I find the wispy stringer too hard for me to control. The thicker the stringer the easier for me to control. Anne of AMR Glassworks uses the smallest stringer I could ever imagine and has great control. I think it's a matter of what you become comfortable with.

I hardly ever use a rod to put on dots unless I have a huge bead.

I ordered some copper and coral stringer recently. First stringer I've purchased in 7 months, but it's good to make swirlies and that's about it.

[mtmorn]

I use a rod to place dots, partly because my hands shake a lot. For really small dots I pull the end of the rod into stringer for a short distance and use that. Having the rod in my hand rather than a tiny piece of stringer helps to stabilize me. I also have long hands which can make holding on to a piece of stringer difficult at times.


A trick if you shake a lot that I learned from target shooting - place your dot at the bottom of an exhale (exhale, place dot, then inhale) This is when your body is the calmest and most stable. Once you get used to it, coordinating your breathing and glass placement becomes sort of second nature.

[MaureenKennedy]

I think it depends upon what kind of bead you are making. If I am making a small bead, I use pulled stringers. If I am making a large bead (like a long bicone) I use the rods.

I use my torch marver to steady my hand in making dots. Kate D-W uses a large square block of wood cut to the height of where her torch flame is. I have also used a 2x4 cut of wood, propped up at the toch marver, for more substantial area to rest my wrist on while making dots.

[Patricia'sglass]

This is a good thread. Thanks for the answers. Who do you order arm rests from? Or how do you decide the height to cut the block of wood? Thanks. It's good to see you, Saucy!
Pattym

[Trishki]

A trick if you shake a lot that I learned from target shooting - place your dot at the bottom of an exhale (exhale, place dot, then inhale) This is when your body is the calmest and most stable. Once you get used to it, coordinating your breathing and glass placement becomes sort of second nature.

Ohhh.... I love this idea. Have to try it....sort of like a yoga breathing exercise while torching! Seriously...that is a really good suggestion!!!

[DarleenMB]

I tried using stringer for the longest time then finally decided to try using a full rod. You would not believe how small a dot you can make with a full rod once you get used to using one. It's all about how much of the end you get molten, how much you touch onto the bead etc.

Sandi, great tip on the breathing. I was doing that just naturally and now I know the reason! Thanks :)

[ValorieCox]

A trick if you shake a lot that I learned from target shooting - place your dot at the bottom of an exhale (exhale, place dot, then inhale) This is when your body is the calmest and most stable. Once you get used to it, coordinating your breathing and glass placement becomes sort of second nature.

I found this works very well to place your dots on the exhale (and to remember to start breathing again when you get really involved!)

I prefer stringers for dots rather than full rods as I feel it gives more consistant dot-size results. Besides Bullseye makes a full line of stringers 1mm and 2mm for every color glass--there's no reason not to use them!

Val

[DonnaBee]

You would not believe how small a dot you can make with a full rod once you get used to using one. It's all about how much of the end you get molten, how much you touch onto the bead etc.

That is so true. I pay attention to the rod-end, heat it, twirl it on graphite pad to sort of sharpen the rod like a pencil, (but not a not a sharp point, doesn't have to be).

Then when the rod end is the right shape - heat just the tip, make a couple dots, shape the rod end again, heat just the tip, Start over, only 2-3 dots at a time. (This for when I want to do very small consistent dots from a rod.)

I can only do this on a day when I have patience and determination. And that can change at any point in a torch session!

[beadamaniac!]

I use both, depending on the size of the dots I want. Alot of time I will pull stingers about 4mm thick, which is a nice size, big enough to give you a full size dot, but not so thick that you can't navigate it (i.e. run it into the mandrel or another dot). I think some place to rest your arm or elbow is imperative. Lisa, you're on a hothead, aren't you? Can't you get one elbow on the table? If you're right handed hold your stringer (or rod) in your right hand, elbow on table, find a nice spot in the flame (high and off to the side) and bring your bead to the rod to place the dots. That's how I find I get the most consistency.

[DesertDreamer]

I know I make larger beads than many others, and size DOES matter! ;) I always use a rod. I find I have a lot more control over the size of my dots with a large. I can just barely touch it down for a small dot, or let it ooze into a larger one. One thing I do to make it easier for small dots is to roll the tip of the rod into a point. The finer the point, the smaller the dot.

[chocolatier]

Oi Vey! All this struggling with stringer. I use both.

I just got a great tool from Scott and Monica Bouwens http://bearfootart.com/ Go to "tips" and then to "hand stabilizer". It's great. No more shaking and it also takes the strain off your hands.
Hope this helps. It certainly has helped me.

Linda


www.vermontchocolate.com

[saucy]

Oi Vey! All this struggling with stringer. I use both.

I just got a great tool from Scott and Monica Bouwens http://bearfootart.com/ Go to "tips" and then to "hand stabilizer". It's great. No more shaking and it also takes the strain off your hands.
Hope this helps. It certainly has helped me.

Linda


www.vermontchocolate.com
Linda,

I took a look at the stabilizer. What are some of the reasons you like it and how has it made a difference? Just want to know because I'm interested, but I'm sure other folks would like to know the pros and perhaps the cons of this tool.

I think I saw on the website he also uses arm supports/stabilizers from an office supply store. Now that I have my arm rests on the way I might look at purchasing this too.

[MeijhanaKittie]

A trick if you shake a lot that I learned from target shooting - place your dot at the bottom of an exhale (exhale, place dot, then inhale) This is when your body is the calmest and most stable. Once you get used to it, coordinating your breathing and glass placement becomes sort of second nature.

WOW!!!

cant wait to start lampworking again...this is a kewl suggestion!

Mary

[dogsrlove]

Decaf and prayers to the God of Dots

[chocolatier]

Linda,

I took a look at the stabilizer. What are some of the reasons you like it and how has it made a difference? Just want to know because I'm interested, but I'm sure other folks would like to know the pros and perhaps the cons of this tool.

I think I saw on the website he also uses arm supports/stabilizers from an office supply store. Now that I have my arm rests on the way I might look at purchasing this too.

Hi Saucy:

I couldn't see any arm rests on his site. I just ordered mine a couple of days ago from that Bidit.com site. Can't wait for them to come.

I love Scott's hand stabilizer. It's easy to install and to use. You will find your own method of stabilizing your stringer hand as well as winding glass on the mandrel. Only drawback is unless you have your flame at a high angle, your oxy/propane nobs are shielded by the hood and it's difficult to get under the hood to make adjustments. However, I just realigned my torch the way that he has his and that solves the problem. Other drawback for me was the attached marver that I purchased as well another $36). I am short, 5.1 so I actually cannot even see the little marver, let alone use it, and it's really tiny too. So for me that was a bit of a waste of money.
I have it installed on my Minor. He can modify it for any torch.
I think it was well worth the money.
They are great people to deal with. Fast and efficient shipping and lots of communications. Which for me is very important.

Linda

www.vermontchocolate.com

[StefaniBeads]

Wow! Thank you so much for all of the responses!

This is great, I think this post helped a lot of people on here! It's interesting to know that a lot of you use stringer for the dots. Mine are usually pulled too thin, so with my next glass order, I will get some Moretti stringers.

I'm on a HH and BE is a little stiffer, so this is good for stringer application! I should stock up on BE stringers in both sizes. These stringers probably won't ball up on the ends so fast, and I've been wanting to work more with my BE anyway. Thanks Val! :)

[Patricia'sglass]

Hi again. I can't get the bearfootart.com link to work :confused: Does he also sell the arm rests? Thanks for all the great tips!
Pattym

[saucy]

Patty - Try this link (http://www.bearfootart.com ). I had the same problem. He does not sell arm rests. I purchased mine from another website listed in another thread.

Edit - Here is the link to the armrests. http://bidabit.zoovy.com/product/AC_PCARMRESTFS_PL

[chocolatier]

I ordered my armrests from Bidabit.com here's a link to the page http://bidabit.zoovy.com/product/AC_PCARMRESTFS_PL

Scott's website works with a back slash at the end

www.bearfootart.com/

Best, LInda


www.vermontchocolate.com

[Patricia'sglass]

Thanks! I'll check these web sites out.
Pattym

[beadinpath]

I think my Mandrel Master works great for this. Bought it from a beader at an art show. Link is tqtime.com

[ziggy]

HI, FWIW, I am new at this so....
I started with using rods. Then I could not get the tiny dots I wanted so i pulled stringer the C. Jenkins way. Ths consistancy is size varies but I can go back and repull the stringer later to make it thinner if I want.
Then I started just pulling about a few inches from the rod like someone else mentioned leaving it attached to the rod like a looooong point on a pencil.
I seem to use this type the most. Easier to stabilize the hand with it.
I want to try the other suggestion (short pencil type though now).

Oh and if you smoke right before doing any intricate work it will make your hands shake! I found this out when i started smoking again after quitting for 10 years :crying: Couldn't figure out why my hands were shaking so much one day when I was doing some fine line paintin until someone told me about the cigs. Geesh it really does make a difference.
PS It was nice to know I am not the only one with shaky hands (with or without smoking). It has always been a problem for me and I thought I was the only one!
Ziggy

[Peg]

Have you thought of quitting again? I quit once for a year and went back, but year or so latter gave smoking up permanently and not sorry especially since my sister has lung cancer from smoking and may not make it. Peg M

QUOTE=ziggy]HI, FWIW, I am new at this so....
I started with using rods. Then I could not get the tiny dots I wanted so i pulled stringer the C. Jenkins way. Ths consistancy is size varies but I can go back and repull the stringer later to make it thinner if I want.
Then I started just pulling about a few inches from the rod like someone else mentioned leaving it attached to the rod like a looooong point on a pencil.
I seem to use this type the most. Easier to stabilize the hand with it.
I want to try the other suggestion (short pencil type though now).

Oh and if you smoke right before doing any intricate work it will make your hands shake! I found this out when i started smoking again after quitting for 10 years :crying: Couldn't figure out why my hands were shaking so much one day when I was doing some fine line paintin until someone told me about the cigs. Geesh it really does make a difference.
PS It was nice to know I am not the only one with shaky hands (with or without smoking). It has always been a problem for me and I thought I was the only one!
Ziggy[/QUOTE]

[Griffin Dove]

I try to use a rod whenever possible...because of my depth perception problems and I'm not so sure why, it means I'm less likely to overlook a bad join or undercut. I can get the tiniest dots even with a rod. However if I'm trying to apply a dot in between raised work, stringer is the only way to go. Again, I go for the fattest stringer I can.

There's slightly more control with a rod because the glass above the dot glass warms slower, and there's a tiny bit more working time.

Deanna

[Juliesprin]

This is a great thread! Thanks!

I give it 5 stars!

[Shawn T.]

When I first started making dots, I could only use rods to get them nice and even. Now I only use stringers. I guess it was the 3P's. I now pull my own stringers when I want really small dots, as I have better contol over the size of my dots vs. the size of the stringer. Wait does that make since?

Just my two dots worth,
Shawn

[thewildbunny]

what are the 3P's?

[Shawn T.]

Practice, Practice, Practice.