AB question

[hinddee29]

Hi everyone. I have bought my second Airbrush and it is a Vega
2000. My problem is the needle keeps sticking and it will not work.
about very few seconds I have to take it out and clean it.
I first thought that my compressure was doing it because it was blowing out hot air, but I used a new compressure and it does the same thing. Any ideas why this is happening?
thanks

hinddee29

[myorca]

Hi Hinddee,

I am not sure if the Vega has the same item or not, but in the picture below (paasche VL) the red circled part is a small threaded part which when it is too tight prevents the needle from moving. This "screw" is just ahead of the trigger mechanism.

Again I am not sure the Vega has this or not. I am only familiar with Paasche.

Bob

[Penny220]

http://www.wetcanvas.com/Community/images/03-Jan-2004/31562-img230.gif

http://www.wetcanvas.com/Community/images/03-Jan-2004/31562-Vega_Schematic.jpg

I don’t have a Vega but here is the schematics. Are you using the cut away to draw back the needle? This tends to stick the needle. Is the needle bent?

I would disassemble the brush, clean everything out and lube it good. You may simply have some paint clogged up somewhere. If that doesn’t work try what Tim said.

Penny

[ProfessorGreibowitz]

Everyone wants everyone to be me! LOL!


I must be posting way too often! :p



Tim

[ProfessorGreibowitz]

Hinddee29,



I'm no expert but here's my 2 cents.

What paint do you use in the airbrush? Whatever it is, it needs to be quite thin (like between water and milk) for a good smooth flow but can be thicker I suppose if you use a higher pressure and use a more paint (T-shirts but I'm not sure on that one).

Also, as was mentioned, make sure the brush is cleaned by using some airbrush cleaner and cleaning the needle, the tip (nozzle), and maybe even soak it in cleaner but your description wasn't quite clear. Is the brush clogging or is the needle not coming back when you pull the lever?



I have a Vega 2000 and I never use that cutaway in the handle. I just make sure I always use thin paint (Com Art, Golden, Aqua Flow, AeroFlash, and others are thinned already, Createx needs a bit of airbrush medium added in my opinion) and you may even need to remove the cap (the funnel at the end of the brush) and use your fingernails to pull dried paint from the needle tip periodically while you paint. That is what many do to keep it from building up on the tip.

One thing that works for me is to use thin paints and clean the airbrush thoroughly after each use (meaning, when I am done for say 30 min or more, done for the day etc.) and that means blowing several cups of Windex n water and some Createx airbrush cleaner through the brush as well as disassembling the brush and using a real brush to wipe the nozzle area and color cup.


I think blue will also clog much worse than any other color (at least that has been my observation) so it also may take more effort to keep it from clogging when using a blue color.

Yes, check for a bent needle or if the tip is damaged and if so, I'd replace it.

Seems like lots can go wrong with an airbrush but it's worth it.


I hope you can fix the problem! :)


Tim

[me2cyclops]

aaaack

never run windex through your airbrush it will eat away
the chrome

use airbrush cleaner
ezair works quite well

[ProfessorGreibowitz]

I have never had a problem using Windex in my Vega 2000 and I've used the same airbrush for 8 years. Not the same model - the same exact brush and have not had a problem. That doesn't mean someone else didn't or wouldn't have a problem with Windex but for me, it worked. I don't run straight Windex though. I run between 1/3 and 1/2 Windex with water. I take a bottle of Windex and pour maybe half into another storage bottle and refill the first spray bottle with water.


I do not leave the Windex on the airbrush when I'm done. I rinse it off with water in the sink and run water through the brush and blow it out with my mouth (for my Iwata since it won't do a stream on its own). Also, I did not suggest soaking your airbrush in Windex. There are cleansers that will work for that and I think Createx airbrush cleaner will do okay but I am not 100% sure on that one.


So, maybe someone else has had a problem but then maybe they ran Windex through to do a final clean and didn't rinse w/water and over time that may have caused problems.




Hope I clarified the way I use Windex. Mostly, it's a "spray between colors" thing for me.



Tim

[Caterwallin']

As long as I have been airbrushing I have used every product you can name to clean my airbrushes. After trying all of them, I was told of a simple recipe of one part Windex and one part 91 percent Isopropyl Alcohol! I have used this mixture for about 12 years and I routinely leave it in my airbrushes. I have soaked AB parts in this solution for days. I use it with a sonic cleaner. To date, I have never found a cleaning solution that works better. Knock on wood, I have never experienced any damage!

Caution: Handle this mixture with care!

hinddee29 - My Iwata HP-B's needle hangs up severely. It hangs in the O-ring seal just behind the color cup. (You can see this on Penny's schematic as part T814) I solved my problem by lubricating the needle after every cleaning!
Hope this helps!

Sam

[Keith Russell]

Airbrush Cleaner

I have used this for about ten years or so; the instructions came with my first Iwata Custom Micron B. That's a five hundred dollar airbrush, so when Iwata recommended this, I listened.

1 part ammonia to three parts distilled water.

I buy Pasons clear ammonia in the quart size, and I buy distilled water by the gallon. For less than two bucks (US) you can make five quarts of cleaner.

I always run a full colour-cup of cleaner through the airbrush before I begin painting, and another between each second use of the same colour, and always before switching to a different colour.

When I'm setting the airbrush down for more than fifteen minutes, I run three colour-cups of cleaner through the airbrush, wipe the needle, replace it, then run one more colour-cup of cleaner.

I have been using my current Custom Micron 'B' for over a year now, and have not had to disassemble-clean it, yet!

(Also, if you think your needle is bent, it is. Replace any needle you think is 'old', or damaged...)

K

[Penny220]

Iwata recommends a 20% ammonia to 80% water. A ratio of 1:4.

When an airbrush requires soaking I recommend Oxyclean. The water, the heat and the Oxyclean will work in a similar way as a sonic cleaner and will break down any particles that get trapped without causing any problems with the airbrush itself. Oxyclean is hydrogen peroxide and baking soda. Windex is a mixture of detergent, fragrance, alcohol ammonia and water although the exact ratios are proprietary information this sounds pretty close to the recommended cleaning solutions. It is important for remember that your airbrush was designed to withstand the usage of lacquer thinner, nothing you are going to use to clean out water-based paints with is going to be harsher than that.

In the U.S.A.:
MEDEA AIRBRUSH PRODUCTS
P.O. Box 14397
Portland, Oregon 97293

Telephone: (503) 253-7308
Fax: (503) 253-0721

Good News Iwata is preparing a website of there own. You may wish to bookmark this link. http://www.anest-iwata.co.jp/english/

hinddee29, since this is a new airbrush and it has apparently been doing this to you from the beginning if a good cleaning hasn’t helped, have it replaced. Every state and store has different return policies but most are quite liberal. If you cannot have it replaced at the store than use your warranty. Learning to airbrush can be hard enough without having to worry about defective equipment.

[hinddee29]

First off let me say sorry it has been so long. I've been defending the home front. Second thanks for everyones info.
First off I don't think anything is bent. This problem has been with me since I took it out of the box. I though it was just me. Far as getting a new one It has been to long to give it back. As to what kind of paint I use createx and I did try to thin it, didn't help. Now it is possible that o-ring is he problem.
When I wrote the manufacture they said lube the needle with some stuff they sell. It sounded like they were only trying to get me to buy something else. I'm going to have to find it and try it. I used to have a Paasche VL. I loved that thing I whore it out. Should of got another one.
Right now I'm at the point I don't know what to do with an airbrush. I've done some shirts and tie dye stuff. I guess I really don't know how to use one. Knowbody around where I live will help you. I have practice for hours days and a coulpe of years. So I don't know If I'll ever be as good as I can draw. I don't want to give it up. I'm just lost.
Thanks again everyone.

hinddee29

[Penny220]

Airbrushing is hard enough to learn without having to deal with a defective airbrush. There is such as thing as airbrush lubricant, there are many different brands and suppliers but it is in fact recommended that you have and use some. It costs between $4 - $6 and lasts forever. It really does help. In other words, you can take the manufactures advice but you do not have to give them any more of your money to do so. :) I'm sorry we could not be of more help to you.

Don't give up.

Penny

[hinddee29]

Penny you guy's have been a big help. If this is all it is then I've just wasted
two year of getting better. I have never had this problem with the paasche
and it was like this guy was giving me the run around. I will go and find it and give this a try. I wish there was someone to ask about this then.

I won't give up! Now there is a place to go for help. It may take some time for
me to get back into this, but I will. Thanks again everyone.

hinddee29

[Lunatech]

Hello All,

Someone just mentioned airbrush lubricant. Try spraying WD-40 through the brush. It is a great lube and won't damage your airbrush. I'm new to airbrushing but I have vast experience with WD-40. lol I have tried using WD-40 on my airbrush though. It works!

[ProfessorGreibowitz]

Hello lunatech,

Welcome to WC!

For some reason, i doubt that would be a good idea. I don't think petroleum based oils/lubes are good in the airbrush. I use superlube by Iwata and it works fine and has no petroleum or silicates. IOW, it is made specifically for lubing the needle and parts. Some people use other lubes like bee's wax and other plant-based oils. WD-40 may work but for how long? Also, if it gets into your water-based paint it may cause some undesirable things to happen. Oil and water.... anyway.



Tim

[hinddee29]

Welcome lunatech,

Before for I bought the supper lube I did try WD-40 and it did lube the
needle. What Tim said above did happen to me, and alittle did mix with
the paint. The supper lube is around the price of WD-40 or a little less.
Thank for the help.

Shane

[ProfessorGreibowitz]

hinddee29,

My Custom Micron SB pulls back so easily I haven't lubed it and may not ever. It pulls back much easier than the HP even with the HP spring as loose as possible. I really like the CM-SB over the HP for performance. Just gotta get my HP back from Iwata to see if the lever will swap. I like the top of the HP lever better.

I haven't seen you post much artwork lately. Or have I just missed it or am I just getting senile?

Tim

[hinddee29]

Hey Tim,

No I haven't post anything in along time. I'm not to happy with the Vega
I have and right now can't get a different one. I also had to get rid of all
my paint because was junk. It froze last winter and it went bad. So I'll give the Vega another chance when I can get some new paints. I'll think I'll try
something different than Createx this time. It's to bad because the paint kit
I had around a 100 different colors.
Also I'm trying to get into going pin-up style drawings and some day hope
to bring the AB into it, but right now I have to put what little time I have
into put a portfolio of drawings together. Which I have been putting off today.

Shane

[ProfessorGreibowitz]

The drawings you posted looked good. Good luck!


Tim

[jfrejo]

hinddee29, try calling Badger Phone (800)AIR-BRUSH or (800)247-2787 and talk to someone about your problem. Tell them what you tried they are very helpful and go out of their way to help. You will get better service this way as talking to someone is better that writting a letter. I have never had a problem with one of their products but know people who have and they have always been helped and their airbrush fixed. Good luck with your problem.
John

[hinddee29]

Hi John,

I got the my AB working now. The Super Lube was all I needed to fix
my problem. Mine was one of the first Vega's before Badger took them
over. The thing is that it doesn't really feel good in my hand. That's pretty
much the only reason I want a different one. I really want to try using it
with new paint before I really make up my mind.
Thanks for your help.

Tim I glad you like them. For some reason when I post my drawings I don't
get much feedback. Either there isn't much wrong with them to tell me
about or I just stink at it.

Shane

[jfrejo]

If the Vega doesn't work out try getting another VL if it felt good in your hands. The #1 nozzle needle works well for illustration. If you polish your needle and the match it to the nozzle it will make a big difference in the quality of the spray.
John

[hinddee29]

If you polish your needle and the match it to the nozzle it will make a big difference in the quality of the spray.

I'm not sure at what you mean about this. Can you give me some more
info on what you mean?
The VL will be the one for sure I really liked it. Thanks

Shane

[jfrejo]

Take polishing compound to polish the part of the needle that makes contact with paint. By taking a tiny amount of polishing compound and putting it on your needle and gently twisting the needle in the nozzle will seat the needle to the nozzle. It helps make the needle match the nozzle opening more closely and to smooth out the nozzle opening. You should not be to agressive with fitting the needle to the nozzle as you don't want to increase the size of the opening or split the nozzle. This works with most airbrushes.
John

[gtech]

Just a note about what I use...

Ammonia in water, dilution between 1:4 and 1:3, as mentionned by Penny and Keith.

I tried alcohol with and without ammonia in water, windex in water, etc...

2 oz alcohol + 2 oz ammonia + 12 oz water is what I used for a while.

But I came back to ammonia in water when I started to use FW Acrylic Inks. The other mixes worked ok most of the time with the other paints that I use, but that FW Ink is so permanent that I really need to use ammonia.

I then follow with water to rince the airbrush.

The best way to find what works best with what to use is to spray what you normally use on a surface, let dry a few days, and try to clean different parts of it with your cleaner. It should give you about the same result than in your airbrush.

I like to try new recipies when I have to clean the overspray that gets onto my working surface after a few days. :D

Gilles

[airbrush_ken]

OK here's my advise...since I have been making airbrush paints for 13 years I do have a little knowledge about cleaning off acrylics on our equipment...On our mixers we use cloudy ammonia mixed with water...it's standered in the paint making industry...pretty much like Keith said.

Windex will not hurt your airbrush as it's basically a mixture of alcohol and water...mostly water..

I do use WD40, when I service compressors...pressure release valves, quick release fittings, but never on an airbrush...as Tim says it can cause problems with waterborne paints.

I tested Badger's "needle juice" in 94' when it came out and it is by far the best one made...and we use to sell them all. Every airbrush I service, rebuild or just clean, I use it on all the parts....as Penny said you should get some as it will last you a lifetime.

As for your problem, the way you are discribing it...really sounds like a packing washer...as Bob said...
Take the airbrush apart, clean and then try to slide the needle through the packing washer...you should feel a little resitance, but still be able to move it.
If that happens then it's not the washer... if it's hard to push through then you may need to
1) back off a packing washer nut with a small screw driver about 1/8th of a turn and re-test...repeat until the needle moves with a little drag..
2) if that won't release the tightness on the needle, then you may have to buy a new packing washer which cost a couple of bucks...and re-install. It's kind of hard to do without the special tools.

Hope that helps you,
I hope I didn't step on anyone's toes here, this is the kind of work I do for a living..servicing airbrushes..

Ken

[Penny220]

Ken, your not stepping on anyones toes. How much do you know about Iwatas? There's only one I've always wanted to know. How do you change the needle packing (part #5 http://www.coastairbrush.com/pages/12.html )

[bray hampton]

I got a ? about craftman compressors water -drain ,what parts do I need to change the petcock to a location that is easier to get to a lot quicker ?
MERRY CHRISTMAS & HAPPY NEW YEAR
bray

[Penny220]

You can't safely change the location of any inlet/outlet on your tank. Remember your air tank has to be pressure tested to at least 150 PSI and unless you have some series fabrication experience it will never happen. You can however go to a local commericial truck dealer such as Peterbilt, Kenworth, Freightliner etc and buy a quick drain valve for the air tanks. The threads are standard for drain valves. This is a pull type, you pull the cord and it drains the tank. The Kenworth part number is R104 and it's in the $6.00 range.

[bray hampton]

has to be pressure tested to at least 150 PSI and unless you have some series fabrication experience it will never happen. You can however go to a local commericial truck dealer such as Peterbilt, Kenworth, Freightliner etc and buy a quick drain valve for the air tanks. The threads are standard for drain valves. This is a pull type, you pull the cord and it drains the tank. The Kenworth part number is R104 and it's in the $6.00 range.
You can't safely change the location of any inlet/outlet on your tank. Remember your air tank

I was not talking about moving petcock location on the tank except by screwing new parts into the thread hole[it has to be on the very most point on the bottom ]I were referring to changing the access point for my hands
MERRY CHRISTMAS-HAPPY NEW YEAR
bray

[airbrush_ken]

Penny,
I was their service agent for many years and their demonstrator here in Oz.
To remove the old packing washer you need to use a jeweler's flat tip screw driver. After you strip down your airbrush, un-screw the packing washer screw... From the front of the airbrush slide in an old needle to punch out the old packing washer if it didn't come out with the nut...
Now the hard part, putting in the new washer. There is a special tool for the operation, but the kit I got from iwata cost just over $400.00 in 93'. so that's out of the question.
I've use a thin, 3 sided or round, jeweler's file which tapers to a point. I gently place the the nut first and then the washer over the end. Then using gental force I start the assembly in the body. You ownly need to start it on the threads.
Another opition is to use a fine tapered pair of tweasers ..the O ring (packing washer) will hold it on the end of the tools.
After you get the thread to grab, remove your the tool of choice, and using the screw driver again start tightening the washer nut. Slide a needle through the head assembly to test, until you feel a slight drag on the needle...fini..

A special note: Just make sure you go slow tightening the packing nut on the nylon washer as once you've OVER tighten it, it may not loosen up or deform.
I change to packing washers on almost all the old iwata HP's as they used to come with rubber washers...and I've always used nylon ones.

If you have any questions about it feel free to ask as I do this all the time...or pop in at the Australian Airbrush Co.
I'm just up the road from Mack trucks just before Scania servcie centre...drop in and see me...

Ken

[Penny220]

I was not talking about moving petcock location on the tank except by screwing new parts into the thread hole[it has to be on the very most point on the bottom ]I were referring to changing the access point for my hands
MERRY CHRISTMAS-HAPPY NEW YEAR
bray

Go with the quick drain valve then. Every big truck dealer sells them, they're cheap and you never have to worry about it again. The other thing I do with my compressor is level it to the drain outlet. For whatever reason they aren't always the lowest point on the compressor.

[Penny220]

LOL Ken, when I get to the land down under you'll be the first I look up. ;)

I've never had a need to replace one of these no matter what I put through my gun but I've had them apart enough to know that what I don't know is baffling LOL. Thanks for the detailed explaination.